poopypants720 Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 So Ive had my 720 since '09.... got it not running then with some TLC and a slew of replacement parts+carb rebuild I got it going... Then I flushed the radiator... poor thing started leaking coolant EVERYWHERE... out of freeze plugs, out of cracks in the radiator, out of the gasket for the intake manifold... it was horrible... but manageable with about a gallon of water added back to it each day... Then the rear freeze plug just blew on me, dumped all my water on the ground. Ive been sitting on my truck now since half way through last summer and planning a rebuild all fall.... finally the finances and timing are just right to make this happen and im VERY pleased with the results and work done so far... First.. heres some pics of the motor when I first got it, and also as I was tearing it down to get it out... (before getting the weber 32/34 dft rebuilt) Without the head block shots. Horrible shots of the head(and intake seperate) resting back on the block after removing both head and intake to seperate the 2... so much corrosion inside the water jackets.... N finally.... Heres the engine as it sits in the machine shop today.... they did such a great job making it look all purdy again.... wish I would have taken more pictures. Cant wait to get it back in the truck, everything buttoned up and see how the new motor feels. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 nothin better than a clean motor.....looks good man Quote Link to comment
poor-mans-720 Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 lol, looks great.... definatley an inspirator to get me to rebuild mine. that thing looks so clean... oh, you should invest in a tripod or anti shake camera, lol... just kidding... no but really... Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 LOL.... just snapped these with my phone real quick, which usually has an anti shake feature and auto focus enabled... guess it was all the excitement of seeing my motor look the way it does now, LOL. Anyone know how to clean up chrome headers? or with the coloring that comes with heat always be there? Ive got to get the intake all nice n shiny as well! cant have them bringing down the WOW factor. Quote Link to comment
poor-mans-720 Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 yea, my phone camera is pretty good... just have to hold your breath when you take a pic... lol... never dull maybe?? i dont think you are going to get the heat color out. think that is just the effect of heat on the chrome. maybe metal polish would be your best bet. mothers makes a pretty good chrome polish. I use it on my rims. It does look good though man... Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Yeah, I figured the color was there to stay... just didnt want to use anything too abrasive on the chrome, so thanks for the tip on the cleaner, I'll look into it. Ive got to get the engine bay repainted now also... should be easy enough to do... just a pain to take most the crap out and mask off the rest. I'll make sure to get some pics(clear ones) up when I get everything dropped back in and put together. Quote Link to comment
mattthom1986 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Just an idea for your header, instead of refinishing or polishing, look into some of that exhaust heat shield wrap? It's cheap, looks cool, and is easy to install. I think you can get it in different colors and at just about any parts store. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I wouldn't use header wrap, it insulates and keeps the heat in, baking the thin pipe even more shortening the life. Leave uncovered so the pipe runs as cool as possible. No one can see your header anyway. Quote Link to comment
ezlife Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 The heat wrap will also hold moisture in when the car is not in use, and that will be a sure way to cause RUST. Quote Link to comment
Skulptr Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 If header wrap is so bad why was it invented and used. Header wrap keeps heat in, allowing the pipes to heat up evenly and allowing the exhaust to flow faster and more efficient versus pipes with a constant temperature battle, rapid heating and cooling does more damage than a constant heated temperature. Header wrap, used on actual headers, is what they were designed for. Not using it is just downright neglect IMHO Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 meh.... I have Doug Thorley headers, a MUCH higher quality header then the crap pacesetter ones... I guess its nickel plated too, not chrome, either way I actually like the way they look bare and dont even mind the discoloration.... N mike... with my body lift and larger tires, anyone pulled up on my left side that is low enough(most cars) can def see my headers over my tires... again, something I like so Im not worried about it. I did snap a few more shots of the engine today right before they transferred it over to the shop I have doing the install(no room at my trailer park to do the work myself)... again.. .some of the shots wound up not PERFECTLY crisp thanks to my phone camera. Should have swapped with my wife and used hers, much nicer camera on her phone with a flash. Quote Link to comment
poor-mans-720 Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 looks good... well that center pic does. lol. its all cool though... so why does no one really ever paint the head, or the timing chain cover? I think it would be cool to paint the entire engine... Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 looks good... well that center pic does. lol. its all cool though... so why does no one really ever paint the head, or the timing chain cover? I think it would be cool to paint the entire engine... IDK.... I kinda wondered the same thing... I like it all the same being a lil different, breaks up the monotony. Only logical reasons behind not painting the head IMO would be a temp thing(as the head gets hotter then the block) and also maybe worrying about old paint chipping and getting into cylinders when doing simple things like changing spark plugs n whatnot.... thats all just a guess though. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 If header wrap is so bad why was it invented and used. Header wrap keeps heat in, allowing the pipes to heat up evenly and allowing the exhaust to flow faster and more efficient versus pipes with a constant temperature battle, rapid heating and cooling does more damage than a constant heated temperature. Header wrap, used on actual headers, is what they were designed for. Not using it is just downright neglect IMHO If it was so good every dragster/hot rod/NAScar would be using it. They don't because it's only for 1/ reducing under hood temperatures which is one (of many) problems with having a header. 2/ Reducing radiant heat to the intake and carb base causing vapor lock on really hot days. Chemical reactions always speed up as the temperature rises and chrome is no different. Extreme heat will force it to oxidize on the surface and turn blue. Not to mention the increased expansion/contraction of the metal weld joints causing early cracking. Ordinary steel will simply rust. If you just have to have a header and can't afford good ones that are ceramic coated then run them bare so they run as cool as possible to get the longest life out of them. Tell the truth, headers are like spoilers. No one drives their vehicle hard enough to see any benefit from having one on. Waste of money and a PITA even on a mildly modified motor. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3PEuXGCSRxM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 hey guys.... Ive got a bit of a problem here with how my truck is driving.... This problem actually started when I still had the old motor in it, but now that its sat again almost another year waiting to get rebuilt and then finally being driven, its MUCH worse... What Im getting, is under a load @ around 30-40mph I start to get a LARGE vibration and a lot of feedback through the transfer case shifter handle. When I let back off and coast it goes away completely but the second I get back on it (if Im still going above 40mph) it starts again. So its both load and speed dependent. Im worried more then anything that its my transmission... BUT my transmission in every other way is very strong and never even had the typical issues with 5th gear that most mention. So honestly Im thinking Transfer case, driveshaft(namely u-joints) or rear differential. Im not EXACTLY sure on how the gears spin in the transfer case, but do they ever run free when not under a load that would cause the non vibration on coasting? What about the rear differential? does it run free and then spin out or clutch out to grab gears under load? Im thinking the U-joints DO need to be replaced considering I have some play in them(can jiggle them around while mounted pretty good) but still would think that regardless of under a load or not they would vibrate only at speed and then stop when back down to a lower speed.... but maybe not? Im not sure of all the dynamics at play here... I would appreciate any and all possible answers here to what could be the problem... in the meantime Im going to do some fluid checks on the rear differential, Transfer case and transmission as they ALL have signs of leaking oil on the outsides... also will be getting the u joints swapped this next week regardless. Dont need to be driving along and drop an axle n flip. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 :blush: so my transfer case.... its basically bone dry. Im sure this is the root cause of my vibration issues.... If I dont have any metal particles on my drain plug, should I still be worried about other possible wear this may have caused? I didnt drive it much since this started... but I assume these things can break or get overly hot and warp parts without any real lubrication... Please tell me I can just add oil and all will be ok.... I dont want to have to rebuild or buy a new transfer case right now... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Is there oil wetness on the outside of the case? The oil had to go somewhere. Low on oil won't cause vibration but the vibration might have caused the seal(s) to wear and leak. I would check replace the U joints. The T-100s are known for noise when abused not vibration. Look at the top input yoke where the driveshaft from the transmission bolts to the transfer case. This seal is well above the transfer case oil level and relies on splash oiling and so will be the driest if sitting. A dry seal will wear faster or dry out and not seal. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 This is why ya dont use header wrap! This pile of rust and wrap is what disinegrated the header on my samurai. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Heat isn't a problem on the Z series as the carb is on the far side of the motor. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Is there oil wetness on the outside of the case? The oil had to go somewhere. Low on oil won't cause vibration but the vibration might have caused the seal(s) to wear and leak. I would check replace the U joints. The T-100s are known for noise when abused not vibration. Look at the top input yoke where the driveshaft from the transmission bolts to the transfer case. This seal is well above the transfer case oil level and relies on splash oiling and so will be the driest if sitting. A dry seal will wear faster or dry out and not seal. well since posting I went ahead and pulled off the skid plate, then unbolted the bottom drain plug... still SOME oil in it, but maybe just half a quart. capacity is 1.5 quarts so it was bout 2/3rds low on oil.... There is a small amount of obvious leaking fluid coming out at the speedo cable hookup but there wasnt a ton of residue on the top of my skid plate, just caked on dirt. My whole transfer case is actually just plain dirty and could use a pressure wash(as could most my frame, prob carrying 40lbsin dirt) When I stuck my finger all the way in at the top fill plug there was nothing except some against the sides. I even touched what I thought was bottom but must have different cavities inside cause obviously there was a small amount still in there. I'll check on the top front seal tomorrow when I have some good light again... weirdest thing was I went back through checking my ujoints again today and didnt get ANY play in them? well I know they moved in the past.... maybe they already had too much tension on them but who knows, I need to get em replaced and drive shafts greased all around regardless. Rear differential fluid was fine.... couldnt get the plug out of the transmission to check fluid levels, stinkin thing was an extroverted square instead of an introverted one I could open with a half inch extension.... plus the friggen frame, exhaust and torsion bar all are right there not even givin me much room to get my heavy duty crescent wrench in there... gonna have to just hope its ok for now until i figure out how to get that plug off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Use a plumber's monkey wrench with 2 feet of pipe on the handle for leverage. It pinches tighter as you lean on it. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 well I replaced the gear oil in my transfer case... its running a bit smoother and quieter now, but still getting some feedback after higher speeds are reached and the loud humming noise. Gotta get all the u-joints replaced all around for JIC purposes as well but its gonna have to wait a few weeks as money is tight for right now. I have another question though.... For folks with a body lift on your trucks... how is it supported in the middle of the cab? Mine has no support there and therefore sags.... I had temporarily remedied this issue buy sticking a LONG bolt through a plate running next to the inner/rear seat belt mounting spots and then turned the nut up on it with a large washer in front, pushing up the cab... the bottom side of the bolt just rested on the frame... well... first time in the desert running the engine through one of its test runs I hit a divot and there goes the bolt. So now Im sagging in the middle of my cab again. Whats the normal part look like that would support the cab here? There's a hump in the floor and the emergency brake cable running smack dab on top of the middle of the frame under the center of the cab... so maybe 2 spacers on either side of the hump??? Any pictures or explanations would be great, as I didnt install this body lift myself, it came on the truck when purchased. Quote Link to comment
nissanprerunnerdavid Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 I will take pics at 5 today and show you. I'm pretty sure mine has one. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 There are 6 mounting points for the cab. Two, one on each side of the rad. Four in the cab, one on each side by your feet and one on each side just behind the seats. Pull up the carpet to the left of the peddles and you'll see the top of the bolt. If you look outside under the body you'll see a strut on the frame where the bolt from the body comes down through with a rubber mount. If you are sagging, the cab metal is likely rusted away from the mount area and the cab has sunk down with nothing to support it. Quote Link to comment
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