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Pics of my beautiful rebuilt motor....


poopypants720

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There are 6 mounting points for the cab. Two, one on each side of the rad. Four in the cab, one on each side by your feet and one on each side just behind the seats. Pull up the carpet to the left of the peddles and you'll see the top of the bolt. If you look outside under the body you'll see a strut on the frame where the bolt from the body comes down through with a rubber mount.

 

If you are sagging, the cab metal is likely rusted away from the mount area and the cab has sunk down with nothing to support it.

IDK that its that at all... I have a body lift so its lifted away from the normal rubber stop and none of it is resting on the extra bump stops around the cab and has no support at all in the middle... I dont see any real bad rust around the mounts themselves as well as the brackets they mount into on the bottom side of the cab that should be more then enough support on the outside...

 

Theres also a few more things Im wondering about down there, all takes so long to explain so Im just gonna shoot a vid of what Im talking about real quick before it gets dark and I'll post it up here n hopefully give some clearer ideas as to what Im talking about.

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Yup, I've had the entire floor mat out (I have the rubbery flooring) and it's not that bad, all the rust is in localized dot where it's hikes all the way through. Namely from where the floor mat mounts and the screws went through the floor board giving an easy drain spot and rust location....

 

Def no rust in the middle.... Which is why I think it's just supposed to be supported in the middle to keep from sagging like this.

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On non lifted trucks the floor does not rest on that cross member.....the only thing that is missing on yours, is the cab strap... which has no affect on supporting the floor.

I have zero movement in the floors on mine.... in that locale

I'd say your floor is compromised.....rust......'repaired'.....then covered up with paint and or?????

 

That metal thing on top of your transfer case is/was a vent....usually a small 90 degree elbow which is connected with a rubber hose... to a metal line on the inner frame...ending at the firewall

That U joint is NFG

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No way it should that move like that. The metal below the rear window on the cab would prevent that. I would look at that seam where the floor meets the vertical back of the cab. Bet it's tore out or rusted.

well...I just checked the rear seam and it's all fine, still tightly mounted to the back wall of the cab with all the tabs pinched firmly under the lip of the floor pan... id take some pictures but my phone battery is too low and it's starting to get dark...

 

But after scooting both seats forward and looking at how the cab sags...it's front to back (from the back until the rear seatbelt mounts, then goes back up towards the front of the cab) as well as side to side, as though there's a hole in the middle thats opening... But nothing can be seen from underneath except the transfer case shifter hole and the transmission in front of it.

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The middle back doesnt come down... its a king cab, and from underneath where I was pushing up was a good foot and a half in at least....

 

I just BARELY saw something right now that I think I prob only saw cause I was using a flashlight in the dark and it created a shadow above something pinched close to the cab...

 

That one bracket thingy, that the rear inner seatbelt mounts go through that was JUST over the cross member.... its hiding a crack in the floor that I somehow dont remember seeing when I had the mats out??? maybe the insulation crap covered it or something or I just didnt pay attention when scraping it up...

 

So its inside the hump in the middle and is as wide as the top of the hump going side to side and when shaking the cab it goes from each lip being closely seated to one another to opening over a quarter of an inch... Im sure more when my 210lb self is sitting in the cab, let alone a passenger...

 

Im gonna try and snag the wifes phone with a flash and see if I can get a picture of this crap.

 

 

Also... regardless... Im pretty sure the easiest solution to this is to fabricate some kind of mount or support under this section to hold up the inside of the cab.... anyone have some decent ideas that could be fabricated with minimal tooling?

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Jack the floor up to stock height.....cut a piece of 4x4 and or.....pressure treated would be best, all relative to how long you want it to last :D

Maybe put a piece of thin 'foam' on top of the cross member (bottom of block).....drill holes through floor....secure blocks with wood screws

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i have some pictures for you, that i took today. of the ONLY support for the middle of the cab, and for that piece from the top of the t case.

 

 

1334287741.jpg

 

 

1334287745.jpg

 

 

1334287746.jpg

 

 

1334287743.jpg

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that is just a brace, which if you dont have one could possibly lead to sagging i guess. it goes through that cross member, but is not attached at all.

 

 

Not a brace......called a 'cab strap' (?)....helps prevent the cab from separating from the frame in case of an accident.

I doubt installing one will remedy the issue

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Jack the floor up to stock height.....cut a piece of 4x4 and or.....pressure treated would be best, all relative to how long you want it to last :D

Maybe put a piece of thin 'foam' on top of the cross member (bottom of block).....drill holes through floor....secure blocks with wood screws

Thats not such a bad idea.... but I was thinking something a lil more semi permanent and possibly something metal... like maybe metal piping with a long bolt through it and a fatty washer on the bottom thats bigger then the pipe and thread it through a hole on that bracket in the middle or something.... just dont want anything thats gonna pop off easy enough with a bump off roading...

 

 

i have some pictures for you, that i took today. of the ONLY support for the middle of the cab, and for that piece from the top of the t case.

 

 

1334287741.jpg

 

 

1334287745.jpg

 

 

1334287746.jpg

 

 

1334287743.jpg

 

That first picture there... the crack I have in my floor goes right above that humped part of the bracket...

 

I wonder why I dont have that strap you have either??? is yours lifted??? if so did the lift kit come with that bigger strap???

 

I wonder if I can manage to fine another one of those straps if I could just rest it on the top of the frame outcrop there instead of thread through it... does that peice of metal seem to be fairly strong/wont bend too easy?????

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that brace is over 1/8" thick, its pretty hefty. mine is 4x4, but not lifted, yet. when i lift mine, i'm going to take that off so it clears the hoop its through, then put it back on. you could probably grab one from the j/y

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that brace is over 1/8" thick, its pretty hefty. mine is 4x4, but not lifted, yet. when i lift mine, i'm going to take that off so it clears the hoop its through, then put it back on. you could probably grab one from the j/y

 

For sure!!!

 

Im thinking this will be a great way to support that portion of my cab! I only have a 2 inch bodylift, so it should make for an almost perfect adjustment sitting on top of the frame loop then inside!

 

Im getting one of these tomorrow!

 

Any chance anyone know if these are on all years and the same size from standard cab to king cab and 2wd to 4wd? Depending on this will decide which yard I go to.... as there are like only 3 yards with donor 720's round here all diff years and models.... but one is literally visible from my back window n has a burnt up old '86 st.

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well Im pretty sure now that the reason for the sagging is the 4-5 inch slit in my floor above that bracket that the strap mounts to.... but that strap should def do for making a good support for the lifted cab on my truck... if anything I can add more metal to the bottom of the strap or drill it out and run a bolt through it with nuts on each side to make it adjustable for more lift if its not enough as is.

 

Thanks a million for those pictures... im going to go out right now and see if I can get a good shot of my crapped out holy floor.

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none the less, looks like your going to have to some how get some push power under there to square it back up before you put the brace back in. not sure how, maybe one of those little floor jacks on the cross member with a piece of wood on top of it, if you put that brace on and torque it down, its not going to square that up for you, you'll just end up bending the mounting holes at best. definitely straighten that out, or as close as it will get before movin forward. and can you get pictures of the hump without the rubber mat, just pull it up from the back towards the seats?

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Went out to the junk yard next door when there was a break in the storm...but not long enough. One ornery bolt took forever to remove and got me caught up in a huge downpour n I was soaked n muddy... Oh well.

 

So I found out that the 2wd strap is different, it's actually 2 straps going straight down bolted right to the frame cause the rear drive shaft runs right through the middle and above the frame, not under like the 4wd... Luckily they got in a 4wd recently and it was my donor. This one had a 2 inch body lift as well.... But they used 2" square steel to space the strap downwards to still be functional... I took the spacers as well jic I can use them to push the cab higher if it's not enough on it's own...plus I needed the bolts that bolted them right to the cab as the ones they put on the bottom were just a nut and bolt with washers holding on the strap....

 

This square spacer bracket made it a pain in the rear to get the bolts lose and even get an open end wrench in to break it lose...once a little loose though they would spin and allow for larger turn and range of motion.

 

Here's some pics of the score, only 10 bucks n a few scraped knuckles.

 

2012-04-13145335.jpg

2012-04-13145350.jpg

2012-04-13145413.jpg

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those brackets are stupid and a waste. they take away from the functionality of the brace. plus, that brace isnt even attached to anything but the cab, it has no mounts to the frame or crossmember. i suppose you could put something UNDER it between it and the cross member, but i would bolt it straight to the cab, and get rid of those 2 spacers. the problem i am seeing, is the surface that makes contact under the cab, versus the surface those brackets make. less than half, making them more likely to tip or bow outward. but thats just me...

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