StinkyTurbo's Datsun 510 sedan chit-chat thread

[StinkyTurbo]

So, Ive been secretly lurking these forums & a lot of the east coast forums for a Datsun 510, 1st gen Celica, or old school Toyota pickup in the NorthEast for quite some time, until I gave up my search & came to the conclusion that finding one of these vehicles in the NE without it bieng rusted to shit or bieng overpriced AND rusted to shit is impossible. I ended up coming across Ratsun member "fuzz's '71 510" F/S thread & took the chance. Here are pics from when he found it & brought it home.

 

 

He cleaned it.

 

 

 

Then he hit it with some compound to show that the paint still has some shine to it.

 

 

 

Then I had a problem with a shipper. They basically didnt keep their end of the deal. You REALLY have to be careful about who you give your business too. On Saturday morning,(3/3/12) I bought the Datsun 510. So after that transaction took place, I set out to look for a shipper. I filled out a form online for a shipping quote around noon of that day & instantly my email & phone were blowing up with phone calls from "shipping" companies throwing me quotes for shipping a car from Alabama to NJ. After hearing every company out, on Monday(3/5/12) I decided on a company by the name of All Coast Auto Transport & their price quote was $550 w/ 200 deposit & the rest to be paid on delivery & we agreed for the car to be picked up tomorrow(03/08/2012). Maybe a few hours later, another auto shippping company by the name of Lightning contacts me & gives me thier quote but I let them know that I wasnt interested anymore because I already had found a shipping company. He asks me the name of the company, I told him, & in one shot explained to me that shipping companies business practice.

 

Supposedly, All Coast & a lot of other shipping companies are really brokers, or in reality, middle men. What they do is, that they'll charge you on what they think a carrier/truck driver will charge for the move without any idea or even asking, & that the only reason that they ask for that NON-REFUNDABLE $200 deposit is because that is what they charge to locate a driver. The other $350 goes to the driver, but then the salesman asks me if I think that any carrier is going to deliver a car for $350!? I replied, no; & he says "Of course not." What they'll do is, is on the day of the delivery they'll call the customer shipping the car & say that they're going to need an extra X amount of dollars to ship the vehicle for whatever reason that they can come up with. That is how they will make up the difference to pay the driver.

 

Thursday came & went & the Datsun was never picked up & the broker from Lightning, whose name is Nick, called me again on Friday at around 12:15pm & asks me, "Did they pick up your car yet?" & I replied, "No -__- & says, "Ofcourse they didnt & Im looking at their posting on centraldispatch.com right now & they raised the payout by $100. That means that when the driver arrives, he was going to ask you for an extra $100 that you wouldnt of known of until he showed up with the car; & I bet they didnt tell you they were doing that right!?" So from there, he made me write down what I was going to tell my bank to get my deposit back & then told me he'd have my car picked up the same day. He came through & the car arrived on Tuesday morning(3/13/12). He charged me $650. $150 broker fee & $500 for the deposit.

 

Pictures of the car bieng picked up from Fuzz:

 

 

 

And the car bieng dropped off at my garage.

 

[Tristin]

Welcome to the site! Glad to see another 4dr kicking around these parts. Cant wait to see some good progress...

[phiz]

Cool, straight, clean-looking dime.

Sorry to hear about the shipping hassles though.

Transport brokers are just terrible people IMO.

[fuzz's '71 510]

Glad to see "blue hair" got up there safely. Be sure to have some updates soon on it, I'm gonna start back up on mine since I have room to work now. :thumbup:

[fuzz's '71 510]

Updates man, we needs 'em.... :poke:

[StinkyTurbo]

Updates man, we needs 'em.... :poke:

OK then here we go. I decided to not invest a dollar in the L16 and go directly with a S13 SR20DET. I bought a blown SR20 for $300. Im guessing that somewhere along the line, the motor lost oil pressure, dried out the head and caused the camshafts to grind into a cam journal. Instead of having the deep grooves rewelded and bored to spec, I bought a new head & had it freshened up. The motor is almost done, and Ive been gathering parts to do the swap. From what Ive been searching, this is all I need.

 

Reversed engine crossmember/620 motor mounts

Transmission crossmember/240z mount(Experimental Engineering)

Wiring Specialties harness

 

My only questions about the swap are, how long does the driveshaft have to be and are there any aftermarket top mount manifolds that have been used for this swap outside of custom log manifolds? I just want a quick & easy manifold. Anything like the MEGAN manifolds will work?

 

As for stopping, this is what I am going with.

 

Krecs S13 240sx brackets

240sx rotor/caliper

Rear stub axle lock nut

Rear wheel bearings

Rear stub shaft seal

 

My next question is, what brake master cylinder should i go with for S13 240sx rear brakes? I was thinking of going with a 7/8.

Is there an OEM lug bolt that I can use that will be longer than that of the 510s? I was reading somewhere that the Nissan Quest lug bolts were pretty long.

[xxmass]

is your car a driver?

[aintnobiscuit]

I just did a CA18DET swap and it should be almost the same. There are tons of top mount manifolds for the sr20. You can get one from full race and almost any other dealer of sr related goods. Try ebay to get an idea of manufacturers.

 

My driveshaft needed to be shortened to 41". You probably will have one about 1-2 inches longer. I used an aluminum X-member bought off e-bay... which makes the motor sit slightly further back and to the driver side. Previously I had cut/flipped my x-member and that worked much better. I would definitely suggest that route.

 

Troy ermish sells a 7/8 master cylinder with his wilwood kit. I like the feel of it personally, it feels almost stock but more firm.

 

You should be able to pick up longer lugs at pep-boys too.

 

(Unsolicited info to follow)

If you want to retain your e-brake don't use the rear-kit from Troy. It doesn't come with any way of hooking it up (maybe because they are more expensive or something?) Wilwood offers e-brake capable rear calipers that may work... i haven't looked into it. Anyway, i love the kit personally and am not saying his product isn't awesome (because it is). Just want you to be aware... as it doesn't say anything about that anywhere on the site.

[StinkyTurbo]

I know I can use the 240sx clutch master and slave cylinder with lines and the throttle cable, but does it matter if its from a s14 or s13?

[dennis]

I know I can use the 240sx clutch master and slave cylinder with lines and the throttle cable, but does it matter if its from a s14 or s13?

 

you dont have to use a 240sx clutch master, the 510's will work. Besides if you use the 240sx master then you are going to have to mod the firewall since the bolt patter on the 240sx is offset and not vertical like the stock one. Oh, the 240sx and 510 are the exact same bore size.

 

you also want the throttle cable from a S14, they are a little longer and easier to work with.

 

have you found out your answers to your manifold issues?

[StinkyTurbo]

New question. Are my motor mounts supposed to bind? Also I'm using 620 mounts & its STILL hitting the steering link. Why?

[datzenmike]

Instal the motor and transmission in it's finalized position and measure back from the end of the tranny to the flange on the diff. Even draw a picture of what you have and take it and the driveshaft to the shop doing the shortening. No offense biscuit but a different motor swap and odd ball motor mounts and 41" plus one or two more won't do.

 

As to motor mounts who told you that 620 mounts work? And which 620 motor mounts, as there were three engines used and two different sets of mounts. SR motors are imported and like any motor swap a lot of fitting is custom made one offs to make it work.

[rusty12ver]

I think the right side 620 mounts are supposed to be used? Most swaps I've seen with the sr, have a 3/4 spacer on the driver side to level the sr on the crossmember. Hope this helps

[StinkyTurbo]

As to motor mounts who told you that 620 mounts work? And which 620 motor mounts, as there were three engines used and two different sets of mounts. SR motors are imported and like any motor swap a lot of fitting is custom made one offs to make it work.

 

Ive read it everywhere, but looking at the 510 mounts, the engine would sit lower and the trans will still hit the steering link. I dont know what year 620 motors mounts i am using. I bought the mounts with the crossmember already modified from sssr20det510.

 

Here is a link reffering to the 620 mounts.

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18329

 

Here are pics of the binding

 

Driver side:

 

Passenger side:

[StinkyTurbo]

have you found out your answers to your manifold issues?

 

Its sitting right on the box :blush:

[StinkyTurbo]

Time for some updates.

 

I towed the vehicle to my buddies shop.

 

Im pretty sure everyone knows what the bay of a 510 looks like.

 

Empty Bay.

 

Motor is out.

 

This is the paint that we used to paint the bay. The color is from a Daewoo. Dont remember the name :/

 

Everyone brainstorming on how to get the motor in.

 

We got the motor in, & this is how it sat on the steering box with a bottom mount turbo.

 

Motor mount was binding too.

 

We got the motor mount, & turbo problem sorted out & this is how it sits now.

 

How it looks now with the hood closed and IC.