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Soon-to-be Turbo Rotary 260z


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Why hello!

 

So glad you came. Please, take a seat and enjoy the ride with me.

 

Now that the introductions are out of the way, let's get started!

 

I'm new here, and let me start with some pictures.

 

Phone quality, I'm sorry. This is how I bought it.

 

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AAAAAnnnnd this is in the middle of working on it.

(Awesome quality, you're welcome)

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Now, for the nitty gritty.

 

I plan on doing a turbo rotary swap in the very near future but, I need to get this running to use as a daily while I fix my actual daily ha.

 

Any who, There seems a starting issue. I have spark, I have fuel, and I have compression and for the life of me, I can't get it to start. It backfires both out the exhaust and carbs and makes a hell of a noise but nothing seems to work! :(

 

I have new spark plugs, have checked the plug wire sequence on the distributor cap and it is now correct. So where do you guys think I should go from here?

 

Any help is appreciated.

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You're sure your firing order is correct?

We thought that too with my 260z, and it ended up not being..

I can't really think of anything else except electric fuel pump in the rear, fuel filter (you should add a clear filter in the engine bay, to see the fuel) and maybe the hardlines going from mechanical pump to carbs.

Make sure the carbs are not stuck, and fuel is actually getting into the carb.

 

(Mind you, I'm not a master mechanic or anything. I just happened to have had all of the aforementioned problems with starting my Z. laugh.gif)

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Distributor shaft is off ... or distributor itself ... since you said plug wires are good order.... if has electronic ignition modules ...do go bad in these, but not often enough.

 

If you have points/condensor ignition ... replace the points/condensor as a set ... very carefully make sure ... double check all wires leading to coil and distributor are good condition and making proper contact ... check your ignition coil ballast resistor as well ... clean connections with rubbing alcohol and small wire brush ... or electronic cleaner by crc ...

 

Since you have a 260z ... an automatic. Versions will have "dual-points and condensor" ... an original manual transmission car will have single points distributor ...

 

Occasionally coils go bad ... occasionally ...

 

Should not be backfiring through both intake and exhaust ... unless it was way off or jumping electrical connections/broken timing chain.

 

Take off valve cover ... set to tdc ... then pull out and verify #1 rotor position and stick back in ... check for chain stretch while there ... put valve cover back on ...

 

Then set ignition timing once running.

 

In addition to the rest ^^^^ if those carbs have been sitting for more than 1-year or even 6-months ... fuel turns into shalac type hardness ... they will need to be carb dipped ... if you have webers ...a Weber 32/36 kit is about $25-$45 depending on where you shop and if you need a new float for each ... careful with plastic parts as you don't want those to sit in carb dip at all ... check carefully to make sure that the float is not sunk or have a tiny hole ... set float height with tool and Weber specs, and always replace needle/seat.

 

Does the motor "catch" at all when cranking over! ?

 

Good luck

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Are you the guy JZ33 was talking about? Sounds like the same problem i have, i pulled my carbs off and found out 2 of 6 were shooting fuel. Check timing and tdc?

 

Yup! he's a good friend of mine.

 

But hey! We got it running after all. Turns out I didn't have the correct firing order like I had initially thought. But it fires up now! Although it won't stay running for more than a few seconds.

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Yup! he's a good friend of mine.

 

But hey! We got it running after all. Turns out I didn't have the correct firing order like I had initially thought. But it fires up now! Although it won't stay running for more than a few seconds.

 

Check proper fuel pressure ... stick a gauge on it ... change fuel filters if not done so already.

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its even more exciting for him because we have been trying to get it going since he bought it... Mine hasnt given me any running issues yet haha Im just want it to be drivable so he can REALLY get the Datsun bug laugh.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

we finally got it running!! just a bit of hesitation with throttle (any ideas what that could be?) Also.... there was NO thermostat, at all... so we put that in and now the plugs for it are dead... trying to fit an aftermarket one for now...

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SO... the engine is doing pretty good, runs fairly well with very little hesitation... BUT, the clutch will not engage and the pedal only has maybe 4-5 inches of travel at most and we can not figure out how to adjust it... where its at just barely moves the slave cylinder... which was replaced with the master cylinder as well.. any one know of how to fix this?

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Adjustments i believe were not provisioned. :)

 

Bleed it again very thoroughly ... at the master ... then the slave cylinder ...

 

If that doesnt do it ... suspect defective unit(s) ... especially if re-manufactured.

 

Cast-iron slave cylinders usually last longer than aluminum ones for me.

 

Pressure plate could have issues ( its hard to diagnose clutch issues unless in person sorry bout that)

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Oh no, we appreciate the help, any and all haha when we installed the master though (and you are not the first to say it.. ) we never bled it from the master, so I think that might be the issue then...

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Well, we found out that the clutch master that autozone sells isnt good enough, the rod it comes with is too short and you have to put in the stock one... so we did that, re-bled the system, and the clutch will still NOT engage, or disengage if its in gear... We have replaced the master and slave. ALSO, after doing all of that... the engine will not stay running now... it fires up but will not stay running like it would before... what did we do!?

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