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620 rear axle with disk brakes


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Is there any reason this rear axle wont work under a 78 620 K/C? From my rough junk yard measurements it is a little wider but I dont have an issue with that. It unfortunately has an open diff.

 

On with the pictures!!

 

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I looked at doing that but it's wider than the 720 which is wider than the 620. I think 63" rim to rim surface? that's 2-3" wider on each side?

 

I see no problem with the trooper axle. Looks like the C200 diff similar to the later 720 4x4.

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Not against this ... looks like a good conversion :)

 

If your going to "convert" to another axle .. might as well get Lsd ... ( ford calls it traction lok)

 

I am currently doing aFord 8.8" ... in my sbc 240z... 2.73 for cruiser ratio and in a light car ( for a v8), but also to keep Roms down on freeway ;). I have a 4-spd manual ... 1st gear is 3.54 ... muahaha ollz.

1995 mustang ... 2.73 gearing ... Lsd ... 31-splines ... 5x4.5" wheel pattern ... i will be leaving it stock length and flaring the wheel wells ... muahaha

 

wheel pattern for both axles below will be 5x4.5" ... so be prepared for that.

 

95-01 4x4 explorers have 3.54 , 3.73 , and 4.10 ratio ...disc brakes...Lsd ... "60 roughly wms to wms

96ish+……… ranger 4x4 has disc brakes ... aprox same ratios as above ... Lsd ... ^^^

some later ranger 4x4 have 7.5" Lsd rear axles as well ... just a thought if wanted ...

 

^^^ tons aftermarket support ... likely metric brake fittings i believe, and you can offset wheels to tuck if desired ( or flare wheel wells) .

 

Prices of local Portland shop ..

 

*Local shop will shorten housings($120) ..

*Shorten axle pairs ($90)

*Driveline shortening/build new $90-$350ish

*you can plum own brake line from Napa lines/fittings... double flare kit and bending tool ... or buy a brake line plumbing kit and use if needed.

*Proportioning valve from ebay ... needed ... (98 Ish explorer 4x4 have prop valve built in) .

*e-brake is anyones guess haha.

*typically spiced 1310 and 1330 series u-joints ...

you can cut off and re-weld or set leaf spring perches yourself ( or buy new perches and install)

 

^^^^ just have level ground for truck ... grab magnetic degree finder and stick it on pinion flange ( harbor freight ) ...raise axle ... center axle width ....and put light pressure against springs to bolt down perches enough to hold like a jig ... bolt down perches ... center axle check ... check pinion angle needed and adjust ( measure old rear axle pinion angle and output shaft angle before diassembly ... use same or adjust as needed ... once double checked everything ... tack weld each perch on opposite corners ... unbolted rear ... bring out and weld carefully 1inch at a time ... good to go!

 

You can also set perches with rear axle not attached. Just use degree finder, measure, measure, jig, ,, and tack weld. Be careful and weld opposite corners on each perch so you don't burn through or warp tube

 

If not shortening axle at all ...expect a rough $600-800 "conservative" figure... if your careful ...for things you need and basic required correct parts to get job done ( ebrake stuff extra) ... of course lots of factors come into play with what is available, shop rates, etc .... one could easily spend $2,000 and still not have solid axle exactly way they want it lol.

 

If one has the money ... narrowing the axle is really not that much more money ...

 

Hope that helps... this is about 1/2 of what i wanted to type :lol:

 

Dtp

 

P.s ( nis720 just built an 8.8" from scratch on his truck)

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