pace setter monza header 78 b210??

[ofg]

1979 210 2 door 4 speed a14

Looking to replace my intake and exhaust manifolds. Im trying to make a 100% emissions delete, and just run a clean in and out. No emissions checks in my area!

 

So, I found this on ebay.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...tr#ht_500wt_754

 

 

Looking to get my little red rocket back in action asap. I cannot consider using the factory manifolds due to the heat flapper mechanism that is built in. Im also strongly considering a turbo set up,, so the heat flapper just isnt going to work.

 

Any other suggestions?

[RedBanner]

They make non joined manifolds, they flow good, just hard to find. Most headers for a series have bad rep for not fitting and or leaking and or cracking out, plus the dont flow any better soo....

[Skib]

I havent heard good things about pace setter

[ofg]

What years and or models would the non joined manifolds be on? Would they have to be from an a14 engine, or could they be from a13 or a12? For now, Im just going to work on cleaning and prepping the engine bay for the new goods,, what ever they may be.

[paradoxx]

Im using pace setter and I did had some leaks on the flanch, had to bend them a bit to catch the exhaust. But so far so good, got them in 1999 and they are still neat.

[RedBanner]

did you have to cave in one tube like the bills datsun headers?

[DRIVEN]

I have one of Bill's and had to cave it in too. It also leaked at the flange. I had to weld an additional bead and grind it down on one port. Sorry, I know nothing about Pacesetter. Will that one fit a 210 (B310) also? Ggzilla probably knows which cars got the divorced cast manifolds.

[datzenmike]

Looking to get my little red rocket back in action asap. I cannot consider using the factory manifolds due to the heat flapper mechanism that is built in. Im also strongly considering a turbo set up,, so the heat flapper just isnt going to work.

 

 

 

If going turbo then why spend $200 on a header, it won't work either. "heat flapper thing"? just wire it open... cost... $0.50. Done. Headers are a waste of money and time. Unless racing and needing the 3 extra hp gained at 7,500 rpm this will disrupt the air fuel ratio and you will loose bottom and mid range torque.

[DAT510]

Wait if you're going turbo you don't need headers...

You need a log manifold....

[ofg]

Looks to me like the stock exhaust manifold should flow plenty. Its fairly cavernous. I'm going to take them to a shop and see if they can weld some permanent plates where the heat flapper joint is. Even if I don't go turbo its getting a weber with no emissions, only an electric choke,,so all the extra crap is going byby.

[ofg]

O/K, so I took the exhaust manifold in, and its getting the flapper removed, and all associated holes plugged. When it goes back together,, the heat riser plate will get replaced with a steel plate. So, stock manifolds! Going to clean up the intake and see if any mild porting can be done with some rotary tools,, mostly just getting rid of sharp edges, and some casting imperfections.

 

As for the carb,,, How about a redline weber dgve 32/36? Pretty good for a daily driver street car? Any other suggestions?

[datzenmike]

Does it get cold where you live? Like at or below 0 F? Might want to rethink welding the heat riser up. It makes cold running better. Wire it full open and when it gets cold you still have it.

 

Stuff a rag down the head intake ports and push in several inches to block chips from entering. Place the new intake gasket on the head and spray paint the gasket/intake passages red. Remove the gasket and grind away the red ring. Use a carbide tip cutter on a hand electric drill and don't worry about the wall being a bit rough. You can smooth with rough sandpaper/emmery cloth if you want. Vacuum out all the shavings and pull rag out. Now the head exactly matches the gasket ring. Now do the same with the intake. Be careful to match the bolt holes up first and spray red. (or any color you like) Remove gasket and grind away the red ring left... and now head ports and intake runners meet exactly without any step down or up. Taper the grinding into the head and the intake runner a couple of inches to 'blend' them smoothly. Does not have to be mirror smooth. Rough is good for creating and maintaining a boundary layer of air along the runner surface.The exhaust manifold is much harder because it's cast steel. You can polish the exhaust side ports as smooth as you like. There are less gains on the exhaust as it's under high pressure and wants out! Intakes are limited to 14.7 PSI and the engine has to work to draw it in so anything that helps that is good.

[JAS]

Just get an H89 head intake/exhaust manifolds.. They are set up for the larger port heads and flow very very well. They are a split system and you can keep the heat risor and be rid of the 'flapper". These are large stock ported manifolds and will work real well and flow well, and wont break or rust out like a header. All good headers come from New Zealand if you really want one.... Domestic is crap.