how do i set my l series 1400 timing without a tach?

[Leach]

i need to adjust my timing on my 1400 in my 72 bluebird.

 

the car has a stock nikki carb on it

 

ive recently changed cap, rotor, condesor and point but the car still misses and boggs... i have the point set to .019

my distributer is slightly advanced already

 

 

 

i just need to know how to set my timing withut a tach

 

and if theres anything im missing as to why its bogging, spiiting, and missing

[MicroMachinery]

Use a timing light.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Say try 7-12 degs and just run it.

Run it hard up a hill see what it does.

Could be just a slightly worns carb(adjust mixture) and motor and nothing to worry about. It is 40yrold technology.

However you should really thing of a Pertronix conversion or a Matchbox ignition as this helps rule out proplem point distributors(points,dwell,condensor,bushing wear issues)

 

 

shits and grins do a valve lash adjustment if you know how. But if starts EZ Im sure your fine

 

just go to a 510 meet and bring a screw driver 10mm wrench and timming light.

The Posers will just Look .

Some body that knows what they are doing will do it on the spot.He can tell whats going on.

Thats what I notice(lots of Posers)

[Leach]

it idles fine i adjusted the timing and it didnt change anything so i put it back to where it was,

 

i changed cap and rotor back to the old cap and rotor and it runs fine but slower...?

 

its like its not getting its vaccum advance any more.

 

 

i need someone near long beach that can help me out that knows about l series engines

[datsunfreak]

Unsolicited advice: Points are for masochists. Get a matchbox distributor and be done with it. :cool:

[datzenmike]

i need to adjust my timing on my 1400 in my 72 bluebird.

 

the car has a stock nikki carb on it

 

ive recently changed cap, rotor, condesor and point but the car still misses and boggs... i have the point set to .019

my distributer is slightly advanced already

 

 

 

i just need to know how to set my timing withut a tach

 

and if theres anything im missing as to why its bogging, spiiting, and missing

 

 

First thing is with the motor warm check and adjust the valve lash. This is important as a tight valve can upset manifold vacuum and cause spitting and backfires. Prolonged it can burn an exhaust valve.

 

Just use a gun and time it with it idling. Make sure the engine is warm, choke off and at idle. Id idle is set too high vacuum advance may be in play. If not sure remove the vacuum hose only to set the timing. Or set the idle below first....

 

If idle is poor or erratic turn the idle speed up slightly and the mixture screw in and out to find the fastest smooth position, then turn the idle speed down to idle... re-adjust the mixture screw in (lean) until idle quality drops, then out (rich) till idle quality drops. Turn screw approximately in between these two positions and get the fastest smooth idle position, turn idle speed down. Repeat until you can no longer improe the idle quality or turn down lower. (you will need to do this all over again after the timing is set.)

 

 

Spitting and bogging can also be partially blocked jets in the carb.

[banzai510(hainz)]

make sure your using the carb port for the vacuum adv. I seen to many people using the manifold vacuum.

Better to run no vaccu m adv at all.

try that plug the carb vacuum and see what happens.