Memoirs of a New 510 Owner

[Mr. BOHICA]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/36126-510-aluminum-radiators-from-datsun-parts-llc/

 

They are up on ebheh now so I don't know if the ratsun price is still effective. Not too bad for the price. Seems to be made well.

[DARIN 510]

If you get a smaller belt you'll get a lot more clearance from the radiater.

[Mr. BOHICA]

Thanks for the advice! Actually, that is on my to-do list.

[Mr. BOHICA]

Installed a 10" electric fan, ready to go. Clearance wasn't too bad, no modification needed:

 

 

I re- JB Welded my broken DCOM with success. Even with the single DCOE set-up ready to go, I really wanted to keep the duallies. I have thrown in a few better jet options, I hope... When the DCOM broke, I noticed that the chokes were binding on the Mikuni intake. This caused the carb to break. A little dremel magic and the problem is solved:

 

 

I figured out a way to use one of the holes on the side of the Weber to mount the throttle cable, attached to one of the arms on the linkage. I will be using a high quality brake line from a disc brake conversion kit I had laying around for my mountain bike. I can get better detailed pics up when I'm done. A mock-up revealed that it should work well:

 

 

I will be neglecting the dime for the next couple of weeks or so to show some love to my SE-R. I have a sunroof delete to weld up and a rear beam to switch out.

 

 

[fisch]

Nice solution! That is some Ratsun engineering. Way to think outside the box.

[Mr. BOHICA]

Throttle linkage idea was a no-go. Still thinking about that one... Finally took off the valve cover today and am yet another person who doesn't know what cam he has. It's a CWC regrind, but that's about all I have. No measurements as of yet, and I am not versed on lash pads and springs to determine if they are stock or not. The back of the cam, closest to the firewall, is hand engraved with the following: KB7994 and N42805. The is also a "JJ" which I would think would be the initials of the dude who did the regrind.

 

 

 

[Mr. BOHICA]

 

So, that would be Little Miss Sunshine as seen in the for sale section parked next to my 71 red 4-dr, that I aquired yesterday. It needs alot of work, but I have nothing but time. Sure looks good parked next to my other dime, though.

[qwik510]

So you and Tyler worked a deal. Glad to see that the new dime is staying in the area.

[Mr. BOHICA]

Indeed. I will be reaching out to you once I get into this thing!

[strang3majik]

Give it the rest of the love it needs...haha. I got most of the annoying stuff done, now for the body work. :thumbup:

[Mr. BOHICA]

I've had a pretty productive day thus far. A few days ago, I decided to use my newly-aquired dime as a donor car for the red one. This is a temporary fix until I can get my red one on the road and move the yellow one in the garage full time for some major overhaul. I finally got around to finishing my engine breather issue with an oil catch can. Also, I've figured out my throttle cable/ linkage issue, hopefully completed tonight. The "T" design for the hose was stolen from a pic of a vintage A 12 powered race car in a magazine that I have. Not the prettiest. The hose is a perfect size to slide into the crank case breather tube tightly. On to the oics:

 

 

[Mr. BOHICA]

Throttle linkage fix. Thanks, Tyler! I will replace the other one soon!

 

 

 

Goodbye, battery tray.

 

 

Engine bay as she sits now.

 

[Dime Dave]

I have the same manifold and linkage on my LZ23 engine with Mikuni carbs. The Mikunis have tapped bosses on the side of the carb that I used to attached a fabricated cable mount to hold the Lokar cable. The cable passes under the rear carb in a long lazy sweep to the mount. It keeps the cable short with only one 90 degree bend. Here are a couple pictures. I don't know if the Webers have similar bosses to attach the cable.

 

 

[Mr. BOHICA]

Hrmm. Not being one to leave well enough alone, I may try to weld up something similar to yours. I experimented with a mount a lot like that but I gave up. My only concern is the cable's proximity to the headers. Is your cable wrapped in anything?

[Dime Dave]

No wrap on my cable but that wouldn't be a bad idea (the factory wraps their e-brake cable). This set-up is for my street car so I am running a stock cast iron manifold (coated) and a custom 2-tube long down pipe. I don't have a huge pile of header tubes filling the area so not wrapping the cable hasn't caused me any problems to date.

 

I chose to use a cast iron manifold after years of headers and constant leaks and cracks in them.Using the CI manifold and longer secondary tubes creates a 4-2-1 header of sorts and helps increase mid range power which is good on the street.

[Mr. BOHICA]

Minor progress on the wire tuck. I have completed the driver side. I have run two looms. One loom is brought out into the inner fender and back in near the headlights and the other is run from behind the slave cylinder down and up the engine block. The loom that sits close to the block will be wrapped to keep down the heat. The work isn't all that difficult, just time consuming having to strip and connect wire, soldering and shrink wrap. So far, I'm pretty happy with it. Doing this will defintely clean up the engine bay. I'm still trying to figure out the throttle cable issue.

 

 

 

 

[Mr. BOHICA]

My minor wire tuck is nearing completion. The only thing left is to wire the passenger side headlights. I hooked the car up to a battery and everything works, with the exception of the headlights. I mounted the relays below the glove box and the fuses are located within. I also rewired the car for an IR alternator and put on in from the other car. I was still having clearance issues with the aluminum 3-core radiator and the alternator, even with shorter belts. A temporary fix was to install a stock radiator. I'm still fiddling with the throttle cable. On to the oics:

 

Starting to look like an engine again

 

Relays

 

Fuse box

[Uber Deaf One]

I like where you put the fuse box!

[Mr. BOHICA]

@ Deaf One- Thanks, I stole the fuse box idea from somebody else on here...

 

Wiring is done. Trying to narrow down a short that I MAY have had before I screwed with the wiring. The driver side light fuse keeps blowing, but all of the lights still work. I'm assuming they are operating off of the passenger side fuse. I dunno, still need to track that short down. My trunk pan/ tail light panel swap is moving along nicely. That is, until I ran out of shielding gas for the welder and burned the shiat out of my ankle and neck. I was so focused that I payed no attention to the eccessive splatter. Oh well, on to the oics:

 

Missing the ass

 

Donor piece from yenpit. It is a little beat up, but a hell of lot less rust.

 

Plug welds for this end

 

Nearing completion, lined up rather nicely. About 6 hours work to get these pieces to fit together nicely.

 

A reminder of what I started with

[Mr. BOHICA]

So, the gambling fairy was kind to me yesterday in Biloxi.... Of course a motor swap has come to mind. However, I am going to address brakes and other bits before slapping more horsepower in it. Rear disc conversion, master cylinder and steering/ suspension upgrades will be forthcoming in the near future...

[Mr. BOHICA]

My trunk/ tail light panel swap is nearing completion. I put seam sealer at all of the seams inside and under and I covered that with undercoating. Perhaps overkill but I don't need anymore rust. I also put down some insulation stuff on the floor of the trunk. The stock gas tank is in and the new battery box is installed. Originally, I hooked-up a Carter fuel pump in the trunk. Scrapped that idea because of the noise and all of the fittings (more likely leaks.) So I went ahead and installed a stock pump. As of now, I need a skim coat of body filler and a little paint and call it done.

 

 

[Mr. BOHICA]

Finally rigged a permanent solution to my throttle linkage debacle. I stole the idea from Dime Dave (thanks!) and fabricated a mount that is affixed to one of the Webers. The cable is from a bicycle brake and the housing is from a Conquest. The stock gas pedal was hurting, with poor welds and a bunch of washers affixed to it. I cut the top of the stock pedal off and welded it to the Conquest pedal for a clean install. I plan on swapping out the return spring attached to the valve cover with something that is a smaller diameter.

 

 

 

I'm done with the small patched for the minor rot on the floorboards. I sprayed all of the floorboards with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Good stuff.

 

 

I finished the mounting of the WRX seat on the driver side. I mounted it directly to the floor behind the stock front mount. I am going to have to fabricate a bracket for the passenger seat to bring it up a bit because it sits lower than the driver side. Maybe I'm anal, and I like things to be just right, but it seems like a lot of work to get these seats in.

 

 

[Mr. BOHICA]

Tail light panel/ trunk pan is officially done.

 

 

 

Both seats are installed. I need to bend that head bolster back to original. The previous owner of the seats had bent it. I dunno why.

 

 

Installed a wink mirror.

 

 

A few more odds and ends, a thorough cleaning/ detailing, and this thing is ready to roll!

[bmacster]

Damn man, that looks amazing! Keep it up!

[cjzeppy]

The pictures do not show how amazing this looks up close and in person. The progress is very dramatic. Hope you keep working on it to make it into a sweet autoX beast.