Mr. BOHICA Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 I am trying to identify two random line cut-offs that I have found thus far, and remove them. My guesses are the old slave cylinder line for the first pic, and the old fuel line for the second pic. Engine bay as of today. In the midst of a mild wire tuck, addressing all rigged wiring jobs from the PO, and general cleansing... Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Nice update. Oh man I have seen so much worse when an otherwise clean fender gets pulled off a 510! It is a known surprise spot for rust. (I am scared to pull mine actually.) I think you did really good with this one! Especially on the east coast! Quote Link to comment
qwik510 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 I am trying to identify two random line cut-offs that I have found thus far, and remove them. My guesses are the old slave cylinder line for the first pic, and the old fuel line for the second pic. Engine bay as of today. In the midst of a mild wire tuck, addressing all rigged wiring jobs from the PO, and general cleansing... Line in the first pic is for a fuel breather that goes back to the emissions vapor tank above the fuel tank The second pic line is a fuel feed or return line back to the tank. Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Thanks for the line ID, qwik510. I may be sending you a PM with a list of parts to see if you have any. And fisch, I was scared to pull the quarters as well and was happily surprised. All I can see is minor surface rust. A quick clean-up and coat of POR 15 and I'm calling it done. On an additional note, I have been studying up on carbs and was concerned to find that both of the DCOMs have a choke size of 34 with a venturi size of 4.8 :blink: (whatever this means.)I am thinking that this set-up may have been causing the engine to run rich? Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Get rid of that gas tank, and put a stock tank back in. That tank is in the absolute worst place it could be in a 510. If you've seen the rear end collisions I've seen with 510's, you'd see why I say this. The back of a 510 can get compressed all the way up to the shock towers. The stock location is by far the safest place for it. The aluminum one may look cool and racy, but when you're being burned to death I don't think that you'll care how cool it looks. Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Dumb question- where does the stock tank go? Im thinking between the strut towers? I can move the tank deeper in the trunk if need be but then I have an issue with not being able to access the fill up. Thank you for the insight. I tend to try not to be burned alive. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 That's correct, between the rear shock towers, and only comes back as far as the spare tire well edge. I had a friend who was rear ended by a *motorcycle* of all things, and even the light bike pushed the tail light panel to within a couple inches of the stock tank. Your tank looks to be a massive size anyways, the stock one is only 10 gallons, and that seems to be fine with most guys. So downsizing won't create any usability problems. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 yellow is right. stock tank for a street driven car. imagine i would have had a fuel cell in the spare tire well... Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Wow. It doesn't even look like the striking vehicle had too much damage. I'm sold, gents. I contacted qwik510 in my search of a stock gas tank. Thanks for looking out. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Here's another one: The passenger cabin on a 510 holds up surprisingly well in an accident, but that back trunk area just crumples like an accordion. I wish all the guys running these style of tanks would reconsider their mounting locations. Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 So I was screwing around with my carbs today and took them off to clean them up. While torqueing on of the bottom bolts of one, I heard a crack, revealing this: So, I have a spare single sidedraft with 40 DCOE that I am going to try to install in it's place, because I don't have the fundage to spare for a new DCOM, if I could even find one. So I have to seal up one of the water ports on the new intake and grind down a small portion of the bottom so it will clear the header. Hopefully, the jetting will be okay for the time being. Also removed the gas tank and rear bumper. I don't even know where to start with this. I'll most likely take it to a body shop since I think this is going to be above my level of "expertise." Quote Link to comment
qwik510 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 You can repair that carb with some JB weld. It will work great on that Quote Link to comment
qwik510 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Sorry. Double Post. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 The carb could probably be welded. As for the tail light panel, the upper 90% looks to be in great shape. so you only need to repair that bottom 10%. *Don't* cut the whole thing off, as it's extremely hard to find a straight replacement. Just fix the bottom inch. You could do it with some sheet steel and some hammer/dolly work, or have the body shop do it (easier, but more expensive, but likely a better result). Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I JB Welded the carb, and it appears to be pretty stout. Good heads-up on the tail light panel. I was all ready to start drilling the welds and remove it. My plan is to replace the trunk floor as well, or maybe just replace the joint rusting.. Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 JB Weld is a no-go. The broken piece snapped off almost the instant I started to tighten the nut. So, this is what I am left with, for the time being: There is a small part of the intake manifold that is touching a header. I shaved down what I could, but there is still contact (with the manifold only, not the gasket between the carb and mani.) I am thinking that this would not be a big deal, but I will defer to the more experienced: Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 If the spare tire well in the trunk is not rusted, then leave the floor in there and just fix the back inch. Replacing a trunk floor and tail panel is a LOT of work. I know, I did it, and I would not recommend most other people dig into it. Just fix what's there. That carb setup is going to be fine. Dual 4 barrels is overkill for most cars anyways. A good aluminum welder should be able to fix the broken carb, just hold onto it until you can have it repaired. Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 The rust in the trunk extends to the back of the wheel wells on both sides, but the rear quarter panels appear to be in good shape. I'm going to start to call around to see if I can get some quotes for the work. I just want it to be solid. After all, this is going to be a driver. Thanks for all of the insight thus far! Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 if i were you i would take the intake off heat the header a little and tap a flat spot into that tube to make it so it doesnt contact Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 if i were you i would take the intake off heat the header a little and tap a flat spot into that tube to make it so it doesnt contact I was considering that. You just convinced me. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 quick simple solution not like anyone is gonna see it either i need to do the same to the collector on my header the steering linkage contacts it at full lock when turning left Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Ahh, I didn't realize the rust was that bad. I'd still highly consider repairing the bad stuff, and leaving as much original metal as possible. The areas you need are going to be exceedingly hard to find, due to the way most people cut up donor cars. some is cut and stays with the trunk floors, and the rest stays with the fenders. Getting the flat piece between the spare tire well and fenders is hard. Plus, there's a reinforcement bar under the floor right there on each side, keep that in mind when doing the repair. Maybe drill out the spot welds and make a few patch panels, that's what I'd do. Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Direct on the trunk issue. I have reached out to a few guys to see if they wouldn't mind doing some work in my garage using my welder for a doable fee. Also, took care of the intake/ header issue with a propane torch and a good whack of the hammer. All set to begin the wire tuck. I was please to see that all wires going to the engine compartment can be disconnected at the passenger side firewall. BTW, I can't remove either of the dash pieces (glove compartment or speedometer et al.) due to the cage. I am not willing to cut it up so it is going to make routing the wires a little more difficult, I'm sure... Water pump mod all ready to reinstall to clear the new electric fan, thanks Charlie69! Quote Link to comment
Mr. BOHICA Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Managed to get the radiator installed, with VERY little clearance regarding the lower hose and the alternator. But, it fits. I also showed a little love to the engine bay with some Simple Green. Obligatory pic of the dime guard dog: New radiator: Clearance, estimated to be about 1/4": Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Where did you get that radiator made? or did i miss that post? Quote Link to comment
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