rjrieth Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 green engine bay is starting to grow on me. Takata green! Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Nice, hold on I'm uploading pics of the head. Here we are: Right now, I'm having a bit of annoyance sourcing cam tower shims. I found some that are expensive. I may gauge the interest of having some made and cut out by a water jet facility. Apparently the minimum for a run is $100. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hey Regy, I'm getting up semi-early tomorrow, planning on trying to spend the entire day in the garage working on the 510. Stop by or give me a call if you're going to be doing the same. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Here are some better pictures of the head. Really it's just the surfacing, I haven't set up anything else yet. Oh, and they split the difference on the .003" run off on the head. Measured it before I left, within .0005" of straightness. Bitchin'! Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Eeewww Reg, Rust Nightmare! The day I looked at your car over at Matt's, I didn't bend over very far. I guess I knew better than to look too close. I know you'll get it fixed though. Matt - I'm happy the head looks like it will live. To satisfy my curiosity, I Googled for info on cam tower shims. You probably did the same, but some links, if you haven't found them: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151 If 6-cylinder L-series towers are the same as 4. $27.95 per kit doesn't seem bad, but you need three kits, plus shipping I suppose. Heading toward $100. This guy made his own: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40843-making-my-own-cam-tower-shims Interesting because they talk about .080 shims, rather than a stack of .015. Sounds like a better idea for some reason. I've heard of clamping or Super Gluing pieces of sheet metal together before band sawing. That way you only make one saw cut (although slower due to the increased thickness) to produce several pieces the same. Heat the pieces to undo the Super Glue. But I've never done it myself, so there may be a bunch of reasons it won't work. I think the metal has to be really clean before gluing, and the glue needs time to set up. Clamping or bolting the stack together might be easier. Len Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted February 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Quick update. I ordered a weber intake manifold for a Weber 40 DCOE side draft. And then I scored on ebay and found a 40 DCOE for a lot cheaper than what they usually go for. It will probably have to be rebuilt but what fun would it be if it didn't need rebuilding. As soon as both of the items arrive I will put the pics up. Also I met a talented machinist recently and he has agreed to port and polish my head for me. Motor is coming along nicely. Anyone have any ideads on a good header that won't break the bank? I've been looking at the one Troy Ermish has on his website but was wondering if anyone had any comments on other available headers for an L20. Thanks Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Here are some updates on Regy's motor. Bottom end is together. Head has been measured, pics and info in Gen Tech thread under my engine build. Pretty motor pics: Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Here's some pics of my other 510 that i replaced the quarter on. This car has 48000 original miles. I recently discovered more rust on the yellow 510. I'm getting a little discouraged with all of the rust and am considering putting the motor in this 510. I also got my carb this week. Weber 40 DCOE, my wife got it for my for valentine's day. My manifold came in also but they accidentally sent me one for a dual sidedraft set up. ">"> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Nice, before too long, mine will look like that! Quote Link to comment
troyt Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 I'm running an Ermish L20b header on my goon, good quality and you don't have to hammer up the floorpan to make it fit like you do with a L16/L18 header. I had mine coated, even nicer... Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Niiiiice, I like the looks of that header. How's the fitment? Does it fit tight on the mounting studs or is there a lot of room for it walk around necessitating correct positioning before tightening down? Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 That is a beautiful motor. Love the dual sidedrafts. Thanks for the info on the quality of the header. I might just have to get one, Quote Link to comment
troyt Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Fitment was excellent at the head. Stud holes just big enough for a little adjustment, but not sloppy like some others. Nice thick flanges too. Collector is designed for a slip on mid-pipe, ie. it's not flanged. Not cheap, but good stuff rarely is. But... as with all full length headers, it is extremely tight to the steering box. That is one reason I chose to coat my header. I also thinned the mounting tabs on my steering box to allow it to sit closer to the frame rail. If you ae not removing the motor, you will need to remove the steering box for installation. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 My manifold came in also but they accidentally sent me one for a dual sidedraft set up. Sooo, what's the problem? Just get a second 40mm! You don't want this engine Matt is building to be undercarbed, do you? Len Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted October 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Started doing some body work on the 510. Thinking flat orange with white wheels. I'll probably change my mind a couple times by the time i get there. So here's a couple of more recent pics. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 I wonder how many hours of body work is into your 510? Probably better not to think about it. Is Matt close to having the engine ready? We went to Spokane today. I saw that primer grey 2-door 510 with the Al slots again. I can't remember if you've seen it or not. Take the Altamont exit off the freeway as you head out east from downtown. The 510 is sometimes parked on the right within 3 or 4 blocks after you exit. Karen has a pic of it on her computer, but she is doing an Important Project tonight, so I'm not about to ask her to find it. Maybe tomorrow I can get it. Going to bed now. Hard day at the Pull n Saves. I got two 280Z 14" steelies with tires, and carried them and my toolbag from one of the far rows. Should have got a wheel barrow. Maybe I'll sleep well tonight. Dreaming Datsun dreams! Len Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Matt's not close, but he's thinking about it now Len! :D I actually may take the head down today for a 3 angle valve job. I was just going to lap them myself, but it may be more cost effective to have someone else do it for a little more money. Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted October 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 You know whats funny Len? Dad and i went to pull and save that same day that you did and we were joking about running into you up there. And yesterday I picked up some 84 maxima rear discs and calipers. Hopefully I can make em work. And that is sweet that the motor is getting a 3 angle valve job. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Reg - I wish you guys had hit P&S when I was there. You each could have carried one of the Z wheels I bought. I think my arms are longer now from carrying them. I know I have no need for rear discs on my car, but I was changing a rear wheel yesterday and looking at the drum I thought "Eeew, those are small and ugly!". I'm hoping I can forget what I saw and leave the rear brakes alone. But it got me to reading in the Brakes section here on Ratsun. Like anything else when I don't know anything about it - kind of confusing. I did see several mentions of using 1986/1987 Maxima calipers and 1982/1983 200sx rotors, but no idea why this combo and not other years. I didn't see anybody saying other years won't work. You might ask Matt if he knows. I did see this page you might find interesting: http://www.datsuns.c...max install.pdf Post #11 here: http://community.rat...n-rear-for-510/ shows a bracket idea. Len Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Thanks for the info. Yeah it looks like getting those brakes was a waste of time. bummer. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Sweet garage Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Reg - Remember the wonderful P&S 30 day return policy (if you kept receipt). I'm still not sure the earlier Maxima rears won't work, it is just I found posts saying guys were using the later ones. Maybe something to do with available after-market brackets or wheel clearance. I think there were some later model Maximas at one of the P&Ss, maybe the Valley location. I didn't pay much attention since they were FWD. No 200SXs though. I think I saw one post where a guy said he was using Z or ZX rear brakes, but I'm not sure. I'll keep looking. What does Matt have on his? Don't think of your time pulling the brakes as wasted. Good practice if you need to get different ones. I screwed with my exhaust today and didn't make much progress. I may get some of that flex tubing and hack it on. Len Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Matt has 200sx rotors with 86 or 87 Maxima calipers I think is what he told me. (Correct me if i'm wrong Matt) I've heard of people running 280zx rears, and i think the rears brakes might still be on one of those 280zx's out at P&S. Also we need to work out a deal on those slotted aluminum wheels. I've searched both P&S's and craigslist for another set so we could have one wide set and one narrower set but had no luck. Get that exhaust jimmy rigged on there so you can get that thing out to the farm and I can pay for those struts. Quote Link to comment
rjrieth Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Sweet garage Thank you Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Reg - If it hasn't been crushed, that red ZX your front struts came from had beautiful rear brakes. I almost grabbed them just cause they looked so pretty! But they may be gone now. I'll be in Spokane Thursday, but may not have time to hit the North P&S. Yeah, the slotties are yours if you want them.We can work a good deal of some sort. Either the 2 wide ones or all 4. If you are at the farm and want to come get them, come ahead. They are in the corner of the shed where my engines and larger junk is stored, if I'm not here. I heard you were fighting an epic battle with a 'yoda, so maybe you are in Spokane till that is settled. I could bring the wheels Thurs, but I'm bringing firewood for Matt. Gotta leave room for Karen, although maybe she could hold a wheel on her lap and put her feet on the other two. mattyhacks71 - Reg needs to get a shot from the other side of his 510. No German cars sneaking into the back ground from that side! Len Quote Link to comment
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