L14 need help

[Leach]

I have an L14 all stock with nikki carb, single point dizzy.

 

the car idles fine but when i drive off it boggs and coughs.

 

when you let off the gas it idles fine again {seems to only happen under load}

 

 

 

took carb apart and cleaned it. carb spits fuel when you push on the pedal. still same problem

 

points are adjusted properly

 

 

spark plugs have propper gap

 

does anyone know what it might be?

 

 

 

[datto510]

Cracked valves?

[Leach]

I've never taken the head off this motor since ive owned it.

 

 

if it had a cracked valve would it still idle fine and accelerate when in neutral with no hesitation.

 

 

when in neutral it idles and revs up without bogging, it only does it under load

 

 

[RedBanner]

Firts suspect in my eyes is dizzy.

[I'm BLUE]

Be absolutely sure float height is correct ... double check all car passages are clean.

 

Verify fuel filter not cloggged ...

 

Check and adjust valves ...

 

Che k intake gasket

 

If points and condensor, ,,, change and adjust properly .. no exceptions

 

Adjust ignition timing

 

Verify vacuum advance works ... and plate in distributor moves fairly freely

[Leach]

Firts suspect in my eyes is dizzy.

 

how do you know if you have a bad distributer?

 

it has a new cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs. The points are adjusted properly. and no moisture in the cap

[RedBanner]

Or realy bad intake leak, check your carb/manifold hardware. Check for slop in the dizzy shaft, bump it over a few times to check different spots, or check valve springs.

Ive had 1 cracked valve and it was just a missy fealing, know how many miles are on the timing set?

[Leach]

Be absolutely sure float height is correct ... double check all car passages are clean.

 

Verify fuel filter not cloggged ...

 

Check and adjust valves ...

 

Che k intake gasket

 

If points and condensor, ,,, change and adjust properly .. no exceptions

 

Adjust ignition timing

 

Verify vacuum advance works ... and plate in distributor moves fairly freely

 

carb has been completely torn apart and cleaned

 

it is something that comes and goes

[datsunaholic]

Check for distributor shaft wobble. Points can be new and set as close to correct as possible, but if the shaft bushings are worn out, it'll wobble and misfire, yet idle almost perfectly.

 

On the carb, it's possible the secondary main jet is still plugged. Unloaded the secondary never opens, but under load and heavy acceleration it will.

[datzenmike]

Primary jet obstructed. This would explain the lean misfire under load but easy rev in neutral.Possibly as Doug says the secondary is blocked. If looking at one check the other too.

 

When cleaning carb get the canned carb cleaner with the red straw so you can poke it in every hole and blow them out. Look at all jets and air bleeds and visually check that light shines through them and they are clear. Spray through open holes... watch your eyes as it will squirt out from odd places.Take care to put all jets back correctly as primary and secondary will swap.

[Leach]

Or realy bad intake leak, check your carb/manifold hardware. Check for slop in the dizzy shaft, bump it over a few times to check different spots, or check valve springs.

Ive had 1 cracked valve and it was just a missy fealing, know how many miles are on the timing set?

 

 

ive owned this car since march

i dont know of any repairs or other maintenance.

 

its an on and off thing it comes and goes

[Leach]

Check for distributor shaft wobble. Points can be new and set as close to correct as possible, but if the shaft bushings are worn out, it'll wobble and misfire, yet idle almost perfectly.

 

On the carb, it's possible the secondary main jet is still plugged. Unloaded the secondary never opens, but under load and heavy acceleration it will.

 

 

how do i check for wobble

[Leach]

Primary jet obstructed. This would explain the lean misfire under load but easy rev in neutral.Possibly as Doug says the secondary is blocked. If looking at one check the other too.

 

When cleaning carb get the canned carb cleaner with the red straw so you can poke it in every hole and blow them out. Look at all jets and air bleeds and visually check that light shines through them and they are clear. Spray through open holes... watch your eyes as it will squirt out from odd places.Take care to put all jets back correctly as primary and secondary will swap.

 

ive already cleaned the carb with carb cleaner and all the jets as well

 

i believe it to be electrical but im not to sure

[I'm BLUE]

What's left to be replaced on electrical?

 

Datzenmime and datsunaholic are very knowledgeable ;)

 

If u believe it is electrical ... what tests have you conducted to make you conclude this ? Coil getting hot ?

 

How did you clean the carb ? Aerosols?

[Leach]

What's left to be replaced on electrical?

 

Datzenmime and datsunaholic are very knowledgeable ;)

 

If u believe it is electrical ... what tests have you conducted to make you conclude this ? Coil getting hot ?

 

How did you clean the carb ? Aerosols?

 

 

i think its distributer just because the car idles and revs up perfectly in neutral

it boggs under load only

 

i used aersol for carb cleaner

 

coils not getting hot but i think it might be advance on distributer

[datzenmike]

Check that the points are firmly mounted and the connections tight. Don't just look at them. If electrical, as you suspect, you won't find it by looking. Be absolutely sure before moving on.

 

Disconnect the capacitor from the points and see if the problem goes away. If so replace. (again) This happens more than you know.

 

Check that the dizzy is firmly bolted down and if there is a ground wire on it, ground to a bolt on the head or block.

 

Check that the two coil wires are tight and well connected on the terminals.

 

Check that the wires to the ballast resistor beside the coil are tight.

 

 

 

This only the second L14 I know of. Guy on the Realm has one. I forget, are they a very early '68 motor or from Mexico??? Or are they a JDM import?

[Leach]

Check that the points are firmly mounted and the connections tight. Don't just look at them. If electrical, as you suspect, you won't find it by looking. Be absolutely sure before moving on.

 

Disconnect the capacitor from the points and see if the problem goes away. If so replace. (again) This happens more than you know.

 

Check that the dizzy is firmly bolted down and if there is a ground wire on it, ground to a bolt on the head or block.

 

Check that the two coil wires are tight and well connected on the terminals.

 

Check that the wires to the ballast resistor beside the coil are tight.

 

 

 

This only the second L14 I know of. Guy on the Realm has one. I forget, are they a very early '68 motor or from Mexico??? Or are they a JDM import?

 

jdm its in my 72 bluebird from japan {just like an l16 just smaller crank and domed pistons instead of flat}

 

ill have to check the capacitor tomorrow.

 

the two coil wires are tight and well connected

 

wires on ballast resister are tight as well

[I'm BLUE]

i think its distributer just because the car idles and revs up perfectly in neutral

it boggs under load only

 

i used aersol for carb cleaner

 

coils not getting hot but i think it might be advance on distributer

 

Carbon clean dip is what i use for rebuilds ... just works a lot better for me and yes carb clean aerosols is good stuff ... for maintenance Imho ... carb pro told me this :)

 

Is your float in good condition? They can develop pin hole leaks overtime and partially sink or sink completely ... just a thought ... how much throttle shaft play?

.

[Leach]

Carbon clean dip is what i use for rebuilds ... just works a lot better for me and yes carb clean aerosols is good stuff ... for maintenance Imho ... carb pro told me this :)

 

Is your float in good condition? They can develop pin hole leaks overtime and partially sink or sink completely ... just a thought ... how much throttle shaft play?

.

 

 

float is in good condition

throttle shaft is good aswell

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Try advancing the timing a lil bit

[Leach]

my dad went outside and cleaned and gently sanded cap and rotor with an emeryboard

 

checked and tightened points dizzy shaft and points plate

 

 

 

now is running perfect will see how it runs tomorrrow

[I'm BLUE]

how do you know if you have a bad distributer?

 

it has a new cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs. The points are adjusted properly. and no moisture in the cap

 

 

my dad went outside and cleaned and gently sanded cap and rotor with an emeryboard

 

checked and tightened points dizzy shaft and points plate

 

 

 

now is running perfect will see how it runs tomorrrow

 

Glad to hear it works ... drive perfect as well?

[Leach]

Glad to hear it works ... drive perfect as well?

 

yeah hopefully it makes it to work in the morning

[zed]

my first check would be capacitor - they get me every time