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Different L20 matchbox dizzys?


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What's the difference?


I was trolling around our reman distributors at Autozone and found that the late 70's matchbox ran about $200-$250 (i don't remember the exact number) without the module or with. Theres quite a few options.


On the '80 720 L20B, the matchbox with the ign control module is a whopping $120 which makes me wonder, is this a crappier option then the rest? Is their any one that is really better then the rest?

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The remote igniter might be more expensive as it mounts seperately under the dash. It was used on all '78 vehicles and some California smog-mobiles from '76 on.


The matchbox style was used on all '79-'80 L and Z series. Probably cheaper as the module is integral.


Both types are identical in opperation as far as I can see. The matchbox is definitely more desirable of the two.

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The matchbox is superior to the 1976-1978 "remote ignitor" for the following reasons:

* It is smaller

* It is attached directly to the distributor, so far less wires

* It is less expensive

* It is weatherproof

It is the same power as the 1978 remote box. Both can fire a .040 gap.



Different L20 matchbox dizzys?

The L20 never got a matchbox. The L20B four-cylinders only got them in USA.


There are many different L20B matchbox distributors for the same reason there were many different L20B points distributors. The mechanical advance and vacuum advance curves differ by year and by region (FED vs CAL) because of emission control changes. None of the curve sets are good for optimal performance -- just like the points distributors.

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Gm module would be fun to try to attach to the short leads on the Matchbox.


I have read enough about them failing... Kinda why I dont want to buy a used one.


Have never heard of a verifiable case of a matchbox failing. Problems with them tend to be anything BUT the module, like a loose connection or poor module or dizzy grounding, even the coil. It may be possible to fry one from stupidity or abuse (pretty much the same thing) but when operating they just keep going and going.....


Maybe a small aluminum plate that bolts to the module area on the dizzy and the HEI bolted to it? You can always extend the wires. Rad air even hot rad air will keep it cool. When I put the 720 dash in my '78 there was no place to put the remote igniter, so I mounted it on the firewall above the master and covered with a plastic bag. :lol: :lol: Eventually got a matchbox for it.

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I replaced one last weekend




Nothing wrong with the earlier EI remote if that all you have. However I have never run either of them myself.



Nice car hope it makes it back on the road. But I will only do so much.



If you go to Olddatsuns.com and read the write up on the matchboxes.Jason Grays

I find on the Matchboxes there were 2 that used different pedastal orientations which if you grab the wrong one it will point between plug 1&3 at TDC. So make sure you have a match set.

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Yes, people replace matchbox controls unit. But I have not heard of any genuine hitachi unit going bad unless hooked up backwards. On the other hand, the aftermarket replacement modules I have only heard bad things about ...


Or like Hainz experience, a spare one doesn't seem to work. But with no telling what happened to it (not like it failed while driving)...

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