Caster + Cornerweighting

[Uber Deaf One]

I've read how some people are able to get 5+ degrees of caster out of their 510s... how? I'm at 3.5 degrees right now and the control arm bushing is binding pretty bad.. it doesn't even look like I can go any higher, the control arm looks like it will be hitting the crossmember.

 

Also has anyone ever had their 510 cornerweighted? I need to redo my front struts and I was thinking about using clamps for the spring perch just so I can cornerweight the car, then weld the clamps once the corner weights are dialed in. The rears should be pretty simple, would just have to cut off small bits of the springs at a time? Would a shop be willing to do this, or would they say no due to my suspension not being ride height adjustable? Might have to just borrow some scales and do it myself....

[ggzilla]

Use this:

 

Nissan Competition castor rod bearing kit by Experimental Engineering

[Uber Deaf One]

I forgot to say, I already have T3 T/C rods.

[ggzilla]

Yes that Nissan Competition kit doesn't replace the RODs, it replaces the bushings for the rods.

[pocket rocket]

yes, we corner weight our circle track P510 all the time & we run 5deg +ve caster. But, we use lower control arms with hiem joint inner pivots, which gives a little more clearance

[ggzilla]

custom-made

 

[Uber Deaf One]

yes, we corner weight our circle track P510 all the time & we run 5deg +ve caster. But, we use lower control arms with hiem joint inner pivots, which gives a little more clearance

 

How exactly do you cornerweight your 510? Rear coilovers or springs in the stock location?

[Uber Deaf One]

Yes that Nissan Competition kit doesn't replace the RODs, it replaces the bushings for the rods.

 

How would that give me more clearance between the LCAs and Crossmember?

[jesusno2]

Strut rods arent gonna get ya their. Yo will have to mod the lower arm to use a heim joint with misalignment bushings. the strut rods will just make it easy to adjust while still on the car.

[Uber Deaf One]

Strut rods arent gonna get ya their. Yo will have to mod the lower arm to use a heim joint with misalignment bushings. the strut rods will just make it easy to adjust while still on the car.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm disappointed now :( Does 5+ degrees of caster make a huge difference on 510s? I noticed a huge difference when I went from 2 degrees to 3.5 degrees which is why I really want more caster lol

[ggzilla]

Is your goal for race car or a daily driver? 3.5 should make it track nicely on the highway, while 5 will require increased steeering effort.

[datzenmike]

Also has anyone ever had their 510 cornerweighted? I need to redo my front struts and I was thinking about using clamps for the spring perch just so I can cornerweight the car, then weld the clamps once the corner weights are dialed in. The rears should be pretty simple, would just have to cut off small bits of the springs at a time? Would a shop be willing to do this, or would they say no due to my suspension not being ride height adjustable? Might have to just borrow some scales and do it myself....

 

Get some split collars...

 

 

Only $10 and will support over 6K pounds or 3 510s on each strut!! Don't bother welding them, they won't move. Besides you may want to change something at a later date... maybe a different spring or something.

 

Cut your own springs. I did mine with a cut off wheel on an angle grinder. $6 for the disc. Here I'm trimming the lower spring mounts from my Maxima struts.

 

 

 

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[pocket rocket]

How exactly do you cornerweight your 510? Rear coilovers or springs in the stock location?

 

We have fabricated spring plates/perches, with adjusters that come up through the floor. But you can just fit spacers if you wanted. Does the same thing, just not as convenient.

 

Allstar Performance, AFCO, Howe & a bunch of others make adjustable spring platforms to suit stock springs, that might be another alternative.

[pocket rocket]

and with 5degs caster, yes the steering gets heavy.

[Uber Deaf One]

Is your goal for race car or a daily driver? 3.5 should make it track nicely on the highway, while 5 will require increased steeering effort.

 

It is a daily driver, but I am setting it up for track days and Autocross. I really don't mind at all if the steering is heavier. I'm at 3.5 degrees right now with a 13" Grant (TINY!!!!!) and I can drive around in parking lots pretty much one handed. If I wanted a comfortable daily driver I would be driving something else ;) I'm too poor to build a dedicated autocross/track day car so I'm going to daily drive an autocross/track day car :) Mike, that was my plan ;) Split collars up front, I know they won't move but it's just an extra sense of security if I just tack weld them. I do have some spacers for the rear springs.... forgot about those. I'll have to make a couple more different thickness spacers... One last thing.. does anyone maybe have a how-to or something to convert the front LCAs to heim joints? Thanks for the help!

[510T]

www.designproductsracing.com has offset camber plates that tip the top of the strut back for increased castor. I am using these in conjunction with adjustable lower control arms and T/C rods. They also have a weight jack setup for the rear if you don't want to fab up your own.

[Uber Deaf One]

Those camber plates are pretty sweet.... might have to sell my T3 camber plates and pick those up.

 

Wow I like that rear weight jack setup.......... think I'll order than when I order my steering box brace next month. Thanks for the heads up!