junk yard diff removal

[poltroon]

Looks like i might go dumpster diving for rear ends (man, sounds like what I used to call me clubin' days...), tryin' to figure out if I need anything special to remove it at the yard. Anyone have suggestions? (gonna look at d21 and pathfinders diffs..)

[sinner720st]

if your going for the whole rear end, you will need wrenches and sockets, ranging from 12mm to 30mm. bring a cheater bar for the ratchet, and some penetrating fluid, some of those bolts are pretty tough... check out my build thread in my sig to see what there is on a pathfinder rear end.

[datzenmike]

If you mean the H233 third member:

 

13/14mm spanner for the driveshaft.

17mm for the 4 bolts behind each backing plate.

Cut both brake lines.

Small sledge to hammer outward on the backing plate to dislodge the axles and pull out about 6" to clear the spline on the side gears. E brake cables should stretch enough.

Pan to drain the oil

1/2" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain bung. Just use the square end for this.

13/14/15mm socket to remove the diff retaining nuts. Most are 10 but there are 11 on '95 and up WD21 Pathfinders.

 

Pry forward and off the studs. NOTE this fucker is HEAVY!! Let it drop onto something.

LSD equipped will have a sticker on the bum...

 

For ratio info look under the pass side hood hinge on the inner fender. Down on the lower right side. HG is the H-233, 46 is the 4.625 ratio It may say HG43 for the 4.375 ratio. I have only seen these two ratios with the LSD option. Open diffs are 4.625 and 4.375 but the '95 and on Pathfinders are 4.636 and 4.363 for some reason.

 

 

 

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[poltroon]

thanks guys.

[HRH]

What are you putting the rear end into? H233B comes out to a 9.1" and it's fing huge. Unless you're planning for better than L power or turbo L power in the future, I'd advise going with something smaller. It'll flat look weird in a 521. And it's major overkill. I could probably put a Chevy 454 to the rear end in the hardbody and not have any problems.

[HRH]

 

LSD equipped will have a sticker on the bum...

 

 

You said bum, hehe. :D Your bum is on the swedish?

[datzenmike]

You said bum, hehe. :D Yourn bum is on de Sveedish Bjorn? Ya???

 

Fixed

[HRH]

Haha, I updated insomniacs.

[poltroon]

It may be overkill, but the l20b based engine with about 130ish rwhp is going to be a lot more fun with lsd. So im gonna go see whats out there, maybe i get lucky and find the infamous h190 with lsd... *shrug* gotta start somewhere. The rear needs to change regardless, I just cant run with this current gearing. im tapped out before i hit 60, which is ok for trips to 7/11 for more beer... but...

[wayno]

It may be overkill, but the l20b based engine with about 130ish rwhp is going to be a lot more fun with lsd. So im gonna go see whats out there, maybe i get lucky and find the infamous h190 with lsd... *shrug* gotta start somewhere. The rear needs to change regardless, I just cant run with this current gearing. im tapped out before i hit 60, which is ok for trips to 7/11 for more beer... but...

 

What exactly are you trying to do here? Changing the gearing in the 521 is easy, just put a 720 pumpkin in your rearend axle housing, your 521 likely has 437s in it, you can put 411s, 389s, or 370s, although 370s is pushing it, I had 389s in mine once, but when I tried hauling weight, I had to go back to 437s. I can go really fast with 437s, I broke my speedo needle, but I do have a 85 720 shortshaft 5 speed in it.

[poltroon]

well, while im concerned about the gearing (since I can change that around regardless of the rear housing), its more about driving a souped up rig with one leg. Since i have a zx 5 speed, im likely to go a bit higher anyway, but again, trying to find the most reasonable lsd option is where im trying to start.

 

The power im putting to it is tame, i dont really need to change the stock one for power considerations... i just dont have an lsd option. All the reading tells me the most economical way to get it is HB rear, so thats the planned start place.