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Trunk mounted Battery ?'s


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I want to mount my battery in the trunk of my KA 510 and I'm looking for options for wiring it up. I have never done a trunk mount battery before. Anyone want to share the way they wired it up? I need to hash out how to run the power to the ECM and accessories. I want to run a solenoid so I don't have a constantly hot wire running to the starter. Anything I haven't thought of or need to know? I have a tendency to overcomplicate my projects, so a nice simple way of wiring it up is my goal.

 

 

TIA

Brock

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I know you said to didnt want a constant hot to the starter but thats what I did. I ran a 2 gauge wire from the battery underneath my car along the uni-body frame. then I just bolted it to the starter where the constant power normally does. Then I made a new wire to a little fuse block/ connector block that I ran hot wires from the new mini block to the different things I needed power to. I also ran I line from the bat stud on the alternator right to the starter. essentially just leangthening the wire from the battery but using the started as a conection host. My starter always had constant power to it anyways.

 

for ground I just drilled a hole in this little rim thing in the trunk on the wheel well. and connected a neg cable to that. and the block in the front just bolted to the uni-body frame as well. worked out pretty good and only took me about 30 minutes.

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What do you mean unibody frame? I was under the impression that a unibody was called that due to a lack of frame. As for the starter... I thought most starters had a relay on the positive side, not the negative. Isn't the starter grounded directly to the battery, and the frame to the engine? Then again, I have been known to be completely wrong...

 

When you wire up an amp most places will tell you to put the fuse within 8" of the battery. If you were to move the battery to the trunk, I think you should stick with the same motto. If you're going to mount the battery in the trunk then use a fusible link right next to it, and then run it up to the original fusible links under the hood. Another good idea might be a power shut-off switch inside the trunk or even within reach of the driver. IIRC, the last thing you have to take into consideration is that the majority of batteries available are low-maintenance, which generally means not-sealed. If you're going to use a normal cheap battery then you definately should look into building a proper box to house it and vent it to the outside of the car. Otherwise, get a good sealed battery. I've heard good things about Optima Yellow Tops, but everyone has their own preferances.

 

The one other thing... grommets in every hole you pass the cable through... that is the last cable you would want to short out on the frame or body.

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