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L20b Head gasket


Dataholic

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Hey guys so I'm replacing my head gasket on my L20b. I've got it on what I think is tdc -- the base of the number one cam lobes are on the rocker arms, so the valves are closed, if I'm not mistaken -- and what appears to be the only mark and notch I can find on the crank pulley is lined up on the 0 marker. The only issue is that my bright link is on the opposite side of the chain when at tdc. It looks like someone changed the timing chain because it says made in USA, maybe they just screwed it up? Either way any ideas on what I should do about setting my timing and any ideas about problems this could cause while changing my gasket. Thanks.

 

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The bright link 'was' in the correct position when installed.

The odds of having it in the same position now....would be....drum roll....about 1400 to 1, I think... :D

Just mark the chain where it sits at the No 2 sprocket position ...then wedge chain...etc.

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Pay No Attenrion To Your Timing Mark

Has The Motor Ran While You Had It?

Your Actual Timing Mark Is On This Part:

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This Is What You Should See For TDC:

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He has a 3 hole sprocket...you have the 4.

Pretty hard to see though a 3 hole...for the timing marks.

It's timed correctly

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Man so every post I've made I get at least one response about the timing tensioner popping out, and in the back of my mind I say yeah...yeah. Well apparently I underestimated how hard the the block needed to be shoved in there because I'm almost certain it popped out. I am frustrated, depressed and feel like an idiot. Anyone know if it's possible to take the timing cover off and fix the tensioner while the motor is in the car, I feel like if it is possible it would be damned difficult with the oil pan and all. Thanks.

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Everyone who mentioned it has found out themselves or had a friend who did it or helped fix a lost tensioner... and that's a hard lesson and never forgotten. Welcome, you are not alone.

 

Yes it can be easily done with the motor in. Remove the rad so it doesn't get damaged. The water pump, alternator, oil pump, distributor and crank pulley must come off.

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http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58

 

you have the USA cam sprocket which the holes are not in the right spot to see the V or the dash for timming. The Japan made sprockets have the 4 hole type. or the multihole type. japanese ones.

The best way to make this work is line it up to TDC on crank(zero timming mark) then go up to the sprocket and in the about 2 oclock position there will be a dimple with a Number, that will be your link to mark with a ink pen before pulling it off.

 

Maybe best to get another Jap made sprocket now and a new tensioner and slackside guide.If our goingto have the from cover off.

 

Now you need to find away to break the crank bolt since you dont have the head on to lock it.

 

watch my vid if will give soem ideas on how to do this.

 

tha make timming chain tool for these and they work great. the are plastic type and flex abit.

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