L16 wont idle for shit

[510Hansi]

hey, my L16 wont idle at all.. as soon as i let my foot off the gas it dies immediatly. it use to idle fine before, but i recently got the distributor checked (duals pionts set vacuum advanced checked and set) and i got my 32/36 carb rebuilt from a local carb shop. compression is the following: 130,145,130,125. the sparks plugs are very black.i opened up the idle jets & mixture screw and sprayed carb cleaner till it came out the mixture side. While the engine was running, i sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold & carb to check for air leaks and i found none. im new to theses motors so if theres any info you guys need please dont hesistate to ask. I believe its timming related, im gonna go pick up my timming light and check timming again. its 0 degreees at the crank (TDC) and then 10 degrees at the distrubitor correct?

 

 

CLICK ON PIC FOR VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[izzo]

ran fine before, got it rebuilt and re-set and now it don't eh lol

 

check your air/fuel mixture screw and idle screw. after a rebuild it could be off

[H5WAGON]

Firing order.....Double check that...!!!

 

1,3,4,2 Counter-clock wise rotation @ dist..

 

 

 

 

...... it use to idle fine before, but i recently got the distributor checked (duals pionts set vacuum advanced checked and set)

 

Points set or replaced?

[Guest kamakazi620]

Seems TOO Rich with the black plugs + a timing prob to boot

[510Hansi]

ran fine before, got it rebuilt and re-set and now it don't eh lol

 

check your air/fuel mixture screw and idle screw. after a rebuild it could be off

 

 

yeah, i tried messing with the mixture but it doesnt help much since i got to keep one hand on the throttle ( to keep it from dying) and the other adjusting the screw. i also backed out the idle screws allllllll the way out ( i took them out) and it still wouldnt idle. its like idle does not exist to this bi**h.

 

i advanced the timing and now it doesnt take long to start. matter of fact it starts pretty. and it doesnt hesitate as much. but once i let of the gas it idles somewhat but its like its around 300 rpm. and it dies (eventually). so its at least its trying to idle but no where near 750 rpm.

[510Hansi]

Firing order.....Double check that...!!!

 

1,3,4,2 Counter-clock wise rotation @ dist..

 

 

 

 

...... it use to idle fine before, but i recently got the distributor checked (duals pionts set vacuum advanced checked and set)

 

Points set or replaced?

 

 

yesssirrreee, 1342 counterclock wise checked. points were set.

[510Hansi]

Seems TOO Rich with the black plugs + a timing prob to boot

 

 

lol.. yes i agree. but how do i fix this problem bruhhhhhhh.

[Str8_69]

If you leave the dizzy loose and turn it while the engine is running, does it affect idle speed?

[510Hansi]

ok, so this videos is when i advanced the timming a little bit more ( from the dist). i cant seem to find my timming gun so of course its not dead on & idk how many degrees it is. but you can see that it at least tries to idle compared to before. but nothing close to what it should be :(

 

 

 

[510Hansi]

If you leave the dizzy loose and turn it while the engine is running, does it affect idle speed?

 

 

yes, if i retard it it will run like crap (idle decreases). and if i advance it the idle will increase. do you think it might be off a tooth or so?

[510Hansi]

ok i found my timming gun so imma see where she stands. ill report back in a couple of minutes. & thanks too all thats helping out.

[Str8_69]

yes, if i retard it it will run like crap (idle decreases). and if i advance it the idle will increase. do you think it might be off a tooth or so?

 

Could be, but unlikely based on what you have described. You had someone else rebuild your carb, and someone else set your points? Dual point dizzys are a pain anyway, but I watched your last vid and that thing sounds like it aint firing on all four.

[510Hansi]

ok, so i took my timming light to it. but before i did that, i reset timing. tdc at the crank. then when i tried to set it 10 degrees by the distributor the timming mark kept jumping 5 degrees, it was never constant. so i had it at 10 degrees but it would also jump back up to 15 degrees and back down to 10 (this was happening very fast as well). ( i had the vacuum advanced unplugged as well) but its very hard to set timming when the car doesnt idle well. heres a picture of the distributor rod. look like 11:28 to me, but im not sure.

 

[510Hansi]

 

Could be, but unlikely based on what you have described. You had someone else rebuild your carb, and someone else set your points? Dual point dizzys are a pain anyway, but I watched your last vid and that thing sounds like it aint firing on all four.

 

ok yeah, yeah that sounds very accurate lol. ill check if its getting spark on all four. ill get back to you.

[banzai510(hainz)]

zero on crank at 11.28 spindal position is Correct.

 

when you use the timming light youll use the crank indents. the big one is zero and every one left is 5 deg. so youll want 10deg so believe its the 3rd mark. olddatsuns.com has this in the tech section

 

turn the dizzy till you get this. But usually you need to get the motor to idle.

You need to adjust the mixture screw(the one with the brass tension spring at base of carb. )

adust the speed screw by the linkage

adjust the timming.

 

since you have points make sure the points are gapped to about .020. but Im not sure what is is on dualpoint distributors.

 

 

also the idle jet could be plugged, but you got it running at like 300rpm so i assume its OK.

 

read olddatsuns.com!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

PS your battery looks like it the positive is toward the front of car. best to face it the otherway. in case you slam on the brakes or hit soemthing the battery will slide fwd and hit the hood and short out! Believe Me!!! fix this and get a real battery tie down. Dont be a cheap ass with a Bungy Cord. a real one is less than 8 $

[510Hansi]

zero on crank at 11.28 spindal position is Correct.

 

when you use the timming light youll use the crank indents. the big one is zero and every one left is 5 deg. so youll want 10deg so believe its the 3rd mark. olddatsuns.com has this in the tech section

 

turn the dizzy till you get this. But usually you need to get the motor to idle.

You need to adjust the mixture screw(the one with the brass tension spring at base of carb. )

adust the speed screw by the linkage

adjust the timming.

 

since you have points make sure the points are gapped to about .020. but Im not sure what is is on dualpoint distributors.

 

 

also the idle jet could be plugged, but you got it running at like 300rpm so i assume its OK.

 

read olddatsuns.com!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

PS your battery looks like it the positive is toward the front of car. best to face it the otherway. in case you slam on the brakes or hit soemthing the battery will slide fwd and hit the hood and short out! Believe Me!!! fix this and get a real battery tie down. Dont be a cheap ass with a Bungy Cord. a real one is less than 8 $

 

yeahh, ive read olddatsuns.com and ive seen ALLL your videos lol. & ill reread olddatsuns.com again. but with the timming light the indentation on the crank jumps when i take the timming light to it. like you said i need it to idle before i set timing. ill recheck the gap of my points and make sure the carb shop set it right. i honestly think it is the distributor, we'll find out tommaro for sure. i doubt its the carb cause the shop went through it and replaced all old parts and set it accordingly. i messed with the mixure screw and it doesnt do much, same goes for the idle screws. as for the speed screw by the linkage, it is set at a good spot, to where the valve is shut and leaves the vacuum advance port open on the inside of carb , even if the speed screw maxed out it just speeds up the motor a little bit more and the timming mark disappears on the crank.

[510Hansi]

ok yeah, yeah that sounds very accurate lol. ill check if its getting spark on all four. ill get back to you.

 

ok i checked spark, its getting spark to all cylinders.

[510Hansi]

PS your battery looks like it the positive is toward the front of car. best to face it the otherway. in case you slam on the brakes or hit soemthing the battery will slide fwd and hit the hood and short out! Believe Me!!! fix this and get a real battery tie down. Dont be a cheap ass with a Bungy Cord. a real one is less than 8 $

 

lol ive had this car for a couple of months now and i havnt even drove it. but ill be sure to move the battery around and legitly tie the battery down. thanks for the advise.

[jon521]

could it be just cause its cold? have you warmed it up and seen if it will idle? maybe your idle screw is turned too far out, and its cold enough the idle is so low it dies? i could be wrong but thats what my truck does in the morning when i dont let it warm up enough.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

if the mark on crank is wondering around with the timming light ,i would look at the dizzy also.

Maybe the weights or springs broke off insidwe the dizzy or another cause on old dizzys is the bushing wears and cause the points to bounce around.(side to side wiggle which this opens the points) when this happens you most likely motor starts popping.

 

My house I always have a set of dizzy lying around to swap in. so it would be a EZ ck.

If swapping in another L18or L20 dizzy make sure to use the matching pedastal(dizzy mount w/timming plate)

 

 

Just on a side note make sure the dizzy vaccum advance is from the carb not the intake manifold!!!!!!!

[510Hansi]

could it be just cause its cold? have you warmed it up and seen if it will idle? maybe your idle screw is turned too far out, and its cold enough the idle is so low it dies? i could be wrong but thats what my truck does in the morning when i dont let it warm up enough.

 

 

 

the car starts up everytime and if i keep my foot on the pedal it will stay on. but as soon as i let off it will go down to very low idle and die. no matter how long the car is on. ive even had the car on for 10 minutes and still did the same.

[510Hansi]

if the mark on crank is wondering around with the timming light ,i would look at the dizzy also.

Maybe the weights or springs broke off insidwe the dizzy or another cause on old dizzys is the bushing wears and cause the points to bounce around.(side to side wiggle which this opens the points) when this happens you most likely motor starts popping.

 

My house I always have a set of dizzy lying around to swap in. so it would be a EZ ck.

If swapping in another L18or L20 dizzy make sure to use the matching pedastal(dizzy mount w/timming plate)

 

 

Just on a side note make sure the dizzy vaccum advance is from the carb not the intake manifold!!!!!!!

 

 

yeah, i agree. i just have a feeling that the carb shop didnt set the air gap at .020. but you said old dizzys bushings wear out which causes side to side wiggle, well i checked my dizzy and i can move the rotor back and forward a little amount. man i realy dont want to buy a dizzy, there expensive..

 

what if the ballast resistor is bad? or the coil resistor or condenser or ignition capacitor, would any of theses cause the timming mark to jump?

 

 

VIDEO:

[510Hansi]

vacuum advance is going to the carb.

 

 

also, no one has said anything about my compression numbers. 130,145,130,125. theses are no where near 171

 

& what is the difference between the ballast resistor and the coil resistor? i ask because i dont believe i have a ballast resistor but i do have a coil resistor.

[banzai510(hainz)]

i just have a feeling that the carb shop didnt set the air gap at .020.

 

confusing stament!!!!!! you must mean distributor? You have to make sure the gap is correct.

 

you compresson Im sure is more preey much in the normail USED range specs.

 

I would look at the timming jumping around as you said. unless you got a weird/bad timming light.

 

take good photos.

 

the ballast resisitor is a whit ceramic bloc next to the coil. You also hopefully have a resisitve coil. These work together as a set with a Points ignition. If this was working before its most likely still good and dont swap these out. Unless you touch the coil with your hand and it feels HOT. then soembody put a wrong coil in there.

 

 

Have you adjusted the MIXTURE screw yet????? that the brass screw at base of carb with a tension spring. turn it in till it bottoms out then turn about 1.75 turns and try to start. then make half turns to hopefully it runs. Once running youll turn it IN/Out till it runs the best. while trying to keep it about 7-10 deg BTDC with the timming light.

 

 

take some more photos. I cant see if a ballast resisitor is in there

 

 

but like earlier your timming mark should be steady but only at a constance speed(like at Idle) when running. If your cycleing the carb linkage, YES it moves around so best to get it to idle at a steady speed then ck the timming light if its steady

[510Hansi]

i just have a feeling that the carb shop didnt set the air gap at .020.

 

confusing stament!!!!!! you must mean distributor? You have to make sure the gap is correct.

 

you compresson Im sure is more preey much in the normail USED range specs.

 

I would look at the timming jumping around as you said. unless you got a weird/bad timming light.

 

take good photos.

 

the ballast resisitor is a whit ceramic bloc next to the coil. You also hopefully have a resisitve coil. These work together as a set with a Points ignition. If this was working before its most likely still good and dont swap these out. Unless you touch the coil with your hand and it feels HOT. then soembody put a wrong coil in there.

 

 

Have you adjusted the MIXTURE screw yet????? that the brass screw at base of carb with a tension spring. turn it in till it bottoms out then turn about 1.75 turns and try to start. then make half turns to hopefully it runs. Once running youll turn it IN/Out till it runs the best. while trying to keep it about 7-10 deg BTDC with the timming light.

 

 

take some more photos. I cant see if a ballast resisitor is in there

 

 

but like earlier your timming mark should be steady but only at a constance speed(like at Idle) when running. If your cycleing the carb linkage, YES it moves around so best to get it to idle at a steady speed then ck the timming light if its steady

 

 

yeah i meant air gap on the distributor. but i got the car running now. i increased the speed screw and followed your instructions on the mixture screw. the speed screw was set at 300 rpm which makes sense why it would barly idle, so i advanced it. also the reason why the timming light was jumping around was........ (kinda ashamed to say this but..) i had the sensor for the timing light on the coil wire instead of a wire going to the spark plugs. but once i relized that i changed it & it was good to go.

 

 

ok this is the ignition set up. i only see the coil resistor, i do not have a ballast resistor. while the car was running or a couple of minutes i felt the coil and it was warm, not hot just good warm.

 

 

Is this correct? two same wires going to the distributor?

 

 

VIDEO: car running & idling :)

 

 

ok soo its puffing out black smog, running rich i assume. how do i fix this? i tried messing with the mixure screw but i feel like i dont have the "ear" for carbs like you guys do. actually i just remembered that i have both idle screws all the way out. im sure if i screw them in and mess with the mixtures i can figure it out.