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Speakers in 240/280zs


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I used a speaker box from MSA in my 240 Z with 2 alpine 6 x 9 speakers and an alpine head unit. I would like to have some front speakers but I don't want to cut the door panels. I have been planning on adding some separates in front with the woofers in the kick panels and the tweeters in the vents.

 

 

Here is a link to the MSA panel. It fits well and is easy to install. It makes the speakers sound great.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SP

 

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In my 510 Im using a audio control lc2 to a 4 channel amp wired to run directly off my phone or Ipod. This way i can retain my factory looking dash and radio. As far as speakers go you can build a nice carpeted box that could be mounted in the cargo area.

If you need any help PM me. I run a car stero shop In ohio and I sell the lc2 to ratsuners $99 pre wired w diagram shipped.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/645207/OEM-Integration/Two-Channel-Line-Out-Converter-with-AccuBASStm-and-Subwoofer-Control----LC2i.html

 

also allows you to add a sub if you like:thumbup:

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sub woofer setups.

 

If you want a subwoofer, it will be custom, done deal.

 

As for speakers, pic spots that are unobtrusive and are not blocked by things in the car. That simple. Yes you are over thinking.

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I know the sub is gonna be custom. but pics of good nad different layouts are cool to help you get a look you like. i have seen speakers put in the spare tire compartment. and i have seen them put in the msa speaker box., and i have seen the in the tool box or right behind the seats. i have also seen them in the center console.

I just want to see peoples setups, and how they like it and sound quality.

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Bass wont care where you put it. Mids cares a little. Tweeters care alot, but who really cares? Basically make sure the tweeters can be pointed at you/ at something like the hatch glass and bounce back at you. The MSA box is nice as it points the rear speakers right at you. Front speakers would be best to get something with a separate tweeter so you can mount it somewhere for better acoustics (middle of outside vents is common), and the bass/mid part of the speaker would do well anywhere in the general vicinity of the front of the car.

 

If you are going with a sub, no need for 6x9s in the front. I love 6x9s as they tend to have good base and are very loud. But you just need the mid up front and the high end. Mount the speakers away from your feet/passengers feet (passengers love to kick speakers for some reason). If the Z doors are like the 510 doors at all and you are mounting the speakers in the door, make sure you have enough room behind the speaker for the window to roll down. I having to use 2 pieces of 5/8" mdf to pull my speakers out of the doors.

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if your serious about sound figure out you image dynamics 4 quality speakers is all you need the goal is to sit in the car and close your eyes while your listening. you shouldn't be able to pic out what speaker is louder. I chose not to sub my 510 because its not right. and if you have high quality speakers you won't need one. but fuck it what do I know I've only been doing car audio since 1993.

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Bass wont care where you put it. Mids cares a little. Tweeters care alot, but who really cares? Basically make sure the tweeters can be pointed at you/ at something like the hatch glass and bounce back at you. The MSA box is nice as it points the rear speakers right at you. Front speakers would be best to get something with a separate tweeter so you can mount it somewhere for better acoustics (middle of outside vents is common), and the bass/mid part of the speaker would do well anywhere in the general vicinity of the front of the car.

 

If you are going with a sub, no need for 6x9s in the front. I love 6x9s as they tend to have good base and are very loud. But you just need the mid up front and the high end. Mount the speakers away from your feet/passengers feet (passengers love to kick speakers for some reason). If the Z doors are like the 510 doors at all and you are mounting the speakers in the door, make sure you have enough room behind the speaker for the window to roll down. I having to use 2 pieces of 5/8" mdf to pull my speakers out of the doors.

Don't take this as picking apart your post, but I wanted to respond regarding a bunch of things. Tweeters and midrange should be as close together as possible, and not exceeding one wavelength at the crossover frequency between them as a rule of thumb. If the crossover frequency from your mid to your tweeter is 1000hz, then this would be 13512 inches/sec (speed of sound) divided by 1000 cycles/sec (hz) = about 13.5 inches for the most you'd want the drivers to be spaced apart. This is especially true if you don't have time alignment, but even if you do it's bad to have your drivers far apart because you can easily pick out where the sound is coming from as your music varies in frequency and your sound shifts from the floor to the dash if you have the mids in the lower doors and tweeters up in the dash. Rears, from a sound quality perspective, are the worst. Most people don't care, though, and they just want the extra volume because most front setups are inadequate at producing the levels a lot of people want. Get a good front setup by saving money by not buying rears, and ditch rears altogether is my opinion. 6x9's have inherently poor sound quality (the elliptical cone increases distortion). You never see high end 6x9's because really there's no way to make them good. Their only redeeming quality is increased cone area for more bass output, but just get a sub!

 

if your serious about sound figure out you image dynamics 4 quality speakers is all you need the goal is to sit in the car and close your eyes while your listening. you shouldn't be able to pic out what speaker is louder. I chose not to sub my 510 because its not right. and if you have high quality speakers you won't need one. but fuck it what do I know I've only been doing car audio since 1993.

The goal is really to have a sound stage that mimics the imaging of a real performance. How are you getting 100db+ at 30hz-40hz without a sub, or large dedicated woofers up front?
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Don't take this as picking apart your post, but I wanted to respond regarding a bunch of things. Tweeters and midrange should be as close together as possible, and not exceeding one wavelength at the crossover frequency between them as a rule of thumb. If the crossover frequency from your mid to your tweeter is 1000hz, then this would be 13512 inces/sec (speed of sound) divided by 1000 cycles/sec (hz) = about 13.5 inches for the most you'd want the drivers to be spaced apart. This is especially true if you don't have time alignment, but even if you do it's bad to have your drivers far apart because you can easily pick out where the sound is coming from as your music varies in frequency and your sound shifts from the floor to the dash if you have the mids in the lower doors and tweeters up in the dash. Rears, from a sound quality perspective, are the worst. Most people don't care, though, and they just want the extra volume because most front setups are inadequate at producing the levels a lot of people want. Get a good front setup by saving money by not buying rears, and ditch rears altogether is my opinion. 6x9's have inherently poor sound quality (the elliptical cone increases distortion). You never see high end 6x9's because really there's no way to make them good. Their only redeeming quality is increased cone area for more bass output, but just get a sub!

 

No worries, but do you think Jalen is going to buy quality 3ways or better? My guess is some Dual 2ways. I have 4 2way 6x8s infinitys in my car and damn the clarity is their. It easily rivals my home system (with the car off, and no they dont have the same low end) which is 2 marantz legacy series 3 ways, and 2 Advent 2ways all connected to a pioneer receiver; I tried adding a sub, but it really didnt add anything to my already 4 woofers I had. Also, my current headphones are Klipsch Image S4, I have gone through 5 pairs of headphones til I was happy with a pair.

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Aside from the fact that 3-ways are a gimmick... :) But yes, which is why I often question why I even respond...cause most people just end up going to Best Buy and buying whatever anyways. Which is totally fine. Same reason when people ask me what speakers to get and only want to spend $150 at most, I tell them it doesn't really matter. From $100-200 they're pretty much all the same. Some tonal differences, and some are definitely more efficient and produce more bass off stock HU power, but again most people won't care enough one way or the other for it to make a difference. You have to at least step up to a set of components, or a set of coaxials, with a dedicated crossover network before things start getting good! It's great when you get your first set of good components and hear things in songs that you never heard before, and you keep looking around trying to figure out what that sound just was :P

 

I don't really consider myself an audiophile. My "good" isn't all that great, really, but it's to the point where I'm happy enough that I don't care to upgrade further, and really that's all that's important to most people. Have you listened to a set of Sennheiser CX400's? I have those and a set of the CX500, but I'm not 100% sure the CX500's are legit and not counterfeit, since they don't sound as good as the CX400's. I love the CX400's. I just can't believe people pay anything for crap such as skullcandy when the Senns can be bought for like $25-30 on Amazon (cross fingers that you don't get fakes :P ).

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It's great when you get your first set of good components and hear things in songs that you never heard before, and you keep looking around trying to figure out what that sound just was :P

 

I don't really consider myself an audiophile. My "good" isn't all that great, really, but it's to the point where I'm happy enough that I don't care to upgrade further, and really that's all that's important to most people. Have you listened to a set of Sennheiser CX400's? I have those and a set of the CX500, but I'm not 100% sure the CX500's are legit and not counterfeit, since they don't sound as good as the CX400's. I love the CX400's. I just can't believe people pay anything for crap such as skullcandy when the Senns can be bought for like $25-30 on Amazon (cross fingers that you don't get fakes :P ).

 

I know what you mean. My earbuds have some of the clearest bass I have heard. They respond all the way down to 8Hz (not that I really can hear that low) I believe without making a crushing sound, and yes the highs are still present. They have dual driver speakers in them. Only critique I have heard of them is that the mids may be missing a bit, but that is fine with me cuz all my stereos have the bass turned up a little, and the treble turned up a little more.

 

Good to know about the sennheisers (my mom is in the market for some earbuds right now). I tried a pair of their Cans twice and was not impressed, absolutely no bass response (as in not there at all even if I played the bass-iest techno I know of.) heck even my cruddy laptop speakers at least responded to the bass.

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I did a set up very similar to skibs, two boxed 6x9's but mine were in between the strut towers and the wheel well arch, wrapped in leather they blended in great.

Instead of a sub Im putting a 6" round behind each of the seats in that metal wall, then sealing the top compartment. Should have plenty of bass for what I want, I have a straight through exhaust from the turbo back... so sound is kind of a luxury to hear.

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