coil over question

[Bkhuft]

The guy I bought my car from welded 1/4" plate in the top of the shock tower. anyone have pics on what to cut out to mount my coil overs bolt up?

[808DA6]

Might help to post a pic of your dilema. Are you talking about the front upper shock tower? Do you have camber plates?

 

-B

[Wide14u]

take a pic so we can see what is welded up

[Bkhuft]

http://i1222.photobu...ft/IMG_0496.jpg

 

 

 

[Bkhuft]

Do I need to cut out the same pattern as the top plate?

[thisismatt]

Those are Ground Control camber plates. You don't need any of that steel plate that was tacked in there, especially since you'll have to hog out a bunch of it so that you get both the camber and caster adjustment of those plates. Something is a little screwy, though, because normally there are two pieces of sheet metal overlapping around the top of the tower:

 

 

If anything, I would perhaps make a steel ring to reinforce around the perimeter where the plates bolt in and call it good. You don't need to double up the whole top with that steel plate.

[Wide14u]

looks like you need trace the to outer slots on that plate cut the towers to mach the plate i think

[Wide14u]

the towers have been cut thats why he has the plate's welded in

[Bkhuft]

Thanx. Thats what I thought. I just need a plasma cutter now.

[thisismatt]

the towers have been cut thats why he has the plate's welded in

The 3 bolt tabs and inner circle have been cut out, but it doesn't look like the main part has been cut out...

[Wide14u]

i think your right

[Wide14u]

i think the p.o.was going to sandwich for strength

[thisismatt]

I suppose, but OP will have to hog out a considerable amount for those plates to work. They are an older (but cool) GC model. I have the same ones, although nowhere near installed :P

 

 

The spherical bearing mount is rather large, and needs a lot of space to move around if you install the plates on the top of the tower.

[Guest kamakazi620]

Thanx. Thats what I thought. I just need a plasma cutter now.

No you DON'T Use a hole saw on both ends and then sawzall the rest YO!!!!! RATSUN!!!!

[thisismatt]

These are a similar new style:

 

[Bkhuft]

I tried the hole saw. It melted down 2 hole saws and didn't hardly cut. That looks like the same kit I have.

[Wide14u]

listen to mat he knows way more then me on this

[Guest kamakazi620]

I tried the hole saw. It melted down 2 hole saws and didn't hardly cut. That looks like the same kit I have.

Try a Metal hole saw NOT a wood one,unless thats Hardened Cromemoly

[Wide14u]

No you DON'T Use a hole saw on both ends and then sawzall the rest YO!!!!! RATSUN!!!!

 

this is what i was thinking

[thisismatt]

I tried the hole saw. It melted down 2 hole saws and didn't hardly cut. That looks like the same kit I have.

Get something decent, like a lenox bimetal saw. That, low RPM, and cutting fluid/oil. If you do it right, you can hole saw mild steel all day long with the same saw. The tricks are keeping the RPM low and use cutting fluid! The same goes for drilling.

[Bkhuft]

The hole saws were for metal. I was even going slow.

[thisismatt]

Oh, and plenty of pressure too.

[Bkhuft]

It was a lennox bimetal hole saw. I tried to go as slow as possible. I didn't use any oil tho.

[Dguy210]

Try a tungsten carbide hole saw. ARTU makes a decent one that is coated all around the edge. Not terrible on the price and OSH sells them. Blows the bimetal hole saws right out of the water. I've used them for cutting lab grade epoxy counter tops, works beautifully. You can barely scratch those with even a good quality bimetal (believe me I've tried)

 

Also, make sure to use a good sized drill and lots of pressure! If you've got a 1/2 inch now is the time to use it.

[INDY510]

.

One of these holes is not like the others: ......... :unsure: ........... . but I wouldn't trust my life with any of those holes:..... Bondo and fiberglass???