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Aftermarket fuse box...


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As long as the fuse holders haven't overheated and lost their temper they should hold the fuses tight enough. Clean them and dab some lithium (white) grease on them. It will keep them from corroding. Also keep a cover on the fuse box itself.

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The other option is to use a newer fuse box that uses the newer ATC-style fuses instead of the old glass ones. Strip one from an '80's or newer car, or go whole hog and replace the entire wiring harness and fuse box with one from Painless or EZ Wiring.

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i've always wondered about the crab thing. i thought it was a spider. must be why the top/cover's seem to walk off on their own. seriously though the crab is the niles logo. crabs, kangaroos, elephants?

 

fyi. that seller offers to sell you the fuses for a few more dollars and when i took the offer the fuses never came. the price was still killer though. $5 shipping from singapore. so what if its on the boat for a month getting sea sick.

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2eDeYe;43407']Picky' date=' picky :lol:

 

On a serious note: What's the difference?[/quote']

Since you asked, from a recent discussion on the Bluebirds list:

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Besides the design of the glass fuses (wire soldered to end caps vs. solid chunk of metal,) the clips in glass-type fuse boxes are almost always inferior. They are curved one way from the factory; hopefully, that curve stays, and hopefully it matches the curve of the fuse end caps. In real life, little contact is made between the clips and the caps, and that contact is at much lower pressure than it might be, giving rise to even more voltage drop. Notice how you can roll your fuses around to improve the contact? Compare that to the effort required to budge an ATO/MINI/MAXI fuse to give you an idea of the quality of contact modern fuses and fuse boxes offer.

 

FWIW, I am partial to the snap-together 4-fuse ATO/ATC fuse blocks sold by Motormite under the "HELP!" line at most parts stores. They cost $5-6, come with all terminals ready to crimp, and come with four of the terminals ganged together (though it is easy to clip the buss.) I've done a 24-circuit rewire of a Unimog with these, and they are hard to beat for neatness and ease of use.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I think peters is on to something with the Bluebird post... if you get a few 4-fuse blocks you could mount them anywhere... have a couple under the hood for engine-specific things, and a couple under the dash for your radio/lights/cigarette lighter/whatever.

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