Timing Advance?

[atkinson40]

My twin sons were 510ers. One came over and called a buddy who sold me a dizzy for $10. The points don't look all tweaked out like mine so at least I have a comparison. Initial inspection looks like i maybe have wrong points installed. Anybody else see anything wrong? -K

 

 

[Spades]

The points don't look all tweaked out like mine so at least I have a comparison. Initial inspection looks like i maybe have wrong points installed. Anybody else see anything wrong? -K

 

The main thing is if the points allow for the same amount of adjustment...also, there shouldn't be any play in the distributor, if there is, that means the distributor is "worn out" and needs rebuilt...often the shaft will be worn down or there will be a bearing or housing that will wear out over time causing the distributor to wobble the way you described. The missing distributor shaft o-ring will cause the oil leak you mentioned, but will not affect how secure the housing is or if the distributor has "play" in it.

 

Often aftermarket distributor points will look different from factory points, but the fit and quality of the part will determine if that is the cause of the problem or not. Personally, if I was in your shoes, I would check to see if the "new" $10 distributor has less play and slop, then if it was "ok", I would buy new points from a name brand or from Nissan, as well as a new distributor O-ring and replace any bushings or seals worn out in the replacement distributor.

 

If the $10 distributor is junk, I would try to find a good quality re manufactured points-free distributor and do an ignition swap as some of the write ups on the internet show...if you have to buy a new part, may as well get rid of points.

[ggzilla]

Agreed. Can't tell from the photographs. Just make sure there is zero side-to-side play in the shaft bearing. If you can detect even a little bit, don't use it.

 

Lubricate the cam lobes. And set the points gap using a dwell meter. Sears makes a low cost meter.

[atkinson40]

Thanks All. I have a points free dizzy I snagged from the JY a while back. From the dizzy swap write ups I still need a different coil and an ECU?? of some sort. The truck starts and runs so I'm going to keep juggling this problem while I change the tie rods, bleed the brakes, grease the front suspension, and align the front suspension. After changing the center bar that goes across under the oil pan the front tires are squealing. I need to figure out how to align the front end.

 

I got caught up in a distraction yesterday from my 620. Found a couple of MTBs at the swap meet for $5 each and built a complete one. Went riding yesterday on it for the first time and I'm in heaven. Been riding the streets so long with my hybrid I forgot the thrill of pushing the limits on the trails. Dahum. Some of us old dudes can still hang. Gotta ride at least a couple of hours to feel good. only thing left is for me to start swinging that 18 pound sledge 10-15 minutes a day. -K

[ggzilla]

No you don't need a different coil or an ECU. You may use a high-energy coil, but it is not required.

 

If you got the 'matchbox' distributor, it includes the ignitor (black box bolted on the side of the distributor).

If you got a 1976-1978 electronic distributor it needs a separate ignitor.

[atkinson40]

No you don't need a different coil or an ECU. You may use a high-energy coil, but it is not required.

 

If you got the 'matchbox' distributor, it includes the ignitor (black box bolted on the side of the distributor).

If you got a 1976-1978 electronic distributor it needs a separate ignitor.

 

Thanks G, I don't see a matchbook.

 

 

I remember a write up somewhere about how to convert and wire for a electronic dizzy but can't find it. Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks Kevin

[ggzilla]

Does that distributor fit an L18? Show us a pic with the cap & rotor off (so we can identify the type) and we'll talk about how to wire it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

hope you have the matching mount also.

Look in the HOW TO section on electronic conversions

[atkinson40]

Does that distributor fit an L18? Show us a pic with the cap & rotor off (so we can identify the type) and we'll talk about how to wire it.

 

 

Thanks G. Here's a pic

 

[datzenmike]

Remote igniter. Needs the box from under the dash to make it work. You also can use a GM HEI module in place of this if you can't locate one.

[atkinson40]

Remote igniter. Needs the box from under the dash to make it work. You also can use a GM HEI module in place of this if you can't locate one.

 

Thanks DM, I adjusted the points and greased the lobes. I'm now able to power up this hill and around the bend shift to third and keep going up. There's another stretch a little steeper past the curve that third handles w/o bogging. I think that means the motor is OK?? Right now the brakes cause it to shudder when applied?? Also it seems like one bouncy bitch. The shocks look like they were around when the wheel was invented so I'll swap them out and troubleshoot the brakes. I really want to get this pony on the freeway. -K

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

KYB makes a "Gas A Just" or the "MonoMax" which are a gas charged but a stuat shock. Might raise vehicle abit.GR@ is just a replacement shock equil to a Gabrieal. I would just get the 10$ Gabriela or monroe shock if yours are really worn and price is a issue

 

I prefer the old Koni adjustable on retraction but hard to find if one can find them. esp for the FRONT!!!!!

 

the gas ones keep the strap in mount on bottom then cu strap and guide thru the hole. otherwise its a MoFO to hold them down by hands

 

 

Rancho shocks Suck and over rated. KYB Monomax just made them obsulete!!!!!!