Arun Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Hey everyone I just got a set of Titan wheels for my 521 but I need longer studs with the wheels and 1/4 spacers There is not enuf thread there anyone have any ideas ? Do anyone know the spline dia thanks Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Do the wheels rub, or just the tires?. Would it be easier to move whatever is rubbing on the frame, or body? All the body fasteners on a 521 are standard American threads. Your lug nuts are 7/16-20 thread. On the front hubs, you could take them to a machine shop and have longer studs presses in. The rear axle will be considerably more work to get the axles out to have new longer studs pressed in. Maybe the easiest choice would be a different wheel. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Check this thread and look for my post. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/25695-wheel-studs/page__p__369621__fromsearch__1#entry369621 Quote Link to comment
Arun Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 The tires rub at full turn but that's ok. It's the studs that I need. I need more threads I have a press so that's not a problem . I looks at summit racing last night and they have all kinds of studs that will work i think but the spline size is what I need to find out Quote Link to comment
Arun Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Jefe thanks that's what I need to know. Why did you have to grind the studs ? Are those 18in titans on your truck thanks for your help Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Jefe thanks that's what I need to know. Why did you have to grind the studs ? Are those 18in titans on your truck thanks for your help The knurl was a little bigger than stock and I didn't have access to air tools at the time(I didn't want to struggle). Yeah , those are 18's on my rig. I'll get you a pic in a bit Quote Link to comment
Arun Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 That pic would be cool thanks for your help. So how fun was it changing the studs ? The front I am ok with hows the rear Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 It wasn't very hard to swap them out. I only did the fronts(I'm not running spacers in the rear-iirc). Just make sure you get them in straight otherwise you'll have issues getting the drum on or off. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 I have a press so that's not a problem . What do you need a press for? Remove them by using a BFH. Install them using an impact gun, proper socket, and an axle nut/washer. Way easier than thinking about pressing them in and out. You can even go get a wheel stud installer from one of the parts houses. Lisle #22800 Google it. I bought one years ago, and love it. I work with guys that have never seen one before. I charge 1 20oz. bottle of Mountain Dew every time it gets borrowed. Quote Link to comment
Arun Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Thanks for the part number that a really simple tool I am going to turn one down at work today thanks Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Hey everyone I just got a set of Titan wheels for my 521 but I need longer studs with the wheels and 1/4 spacers There is not enuf thread there anyone have any ideas ? Do anyone know the spline dia thanks NO machine shop service or special tools required!!! Go get Dorman wheel stud(s) # 601-157. These are 7/16" thread, and longer than stock by about an inch. They are splined the right size~ BUT you WILL have to grind a flat in the head so the stud fully seats in the factory location. This provides a double-locking feature to the stud. Get 1 or 2 extra lugnuts and a handfull (4-6) of flat washers. For the front hubs align the studs so tha flat will pull into the factory step on the back of the hub, generously apply white grease, axle grease, etc., (NOT WD-40) to threads, washers, and spare nut. Run nut on UPSIDE DOWN, and torque studs into place. One spare lugnut will do the front, use a fresh one for the rear lest you start damaging stud threads. The rear is a bit trickier! To avoid completely disassemblig the park and hydraulic brakes, AND pressing the bearings off then back on the axles~ you'll need to drill or torch a small hole by the lower rearward backing plate bolt to fit the new stud through~ they're too long to angle into position. Then repeat the process as you did on the front. Don't worry about the hole, it will actually let some cooler air in and help your brakes.... ;) 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 NO machine shop service or special tools required!!! Go get Dorman wheel stud(s) # 601-157. These are 7/16" thread, and longer than stock by about an inch. They are splined the right size~ BUT you WILL have to grind a flat in the head so the stud fully seats in the factory location. This provides a double-locking feature to the stud. Get 1 or 2 extra lugnuts and a handfull (4-6) of flat washers. For the front hubs align the studs so tha flat will pull into the factory step on the back of the hub, generously apply white grease, axle grease, etc., (NOT WD-40) to threads, washers, and spare nut. Run nut on UPSIDE DOWN, and torque studs into place. One spare lugnut will do the front, use a fresh one for the rear lest you start damaging stud threads. The rear is a bit trickier! To avoid completely disassemblig the park and hydraulic brakes, AND pressing the bearings off then back on the axles~ you'll need to drill or torch a small hole by the lower rearward backing plate bolt to fit the new stud through~ they're too long to angle into position. Then repeat the process as you did on the front. Don't worry about the hole, it will actually let some cooler air in and help your brakes.... ;) Most useful newb post. Ever. :thumbup: FAQ worthy? Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 drilled a hole, slipped the ground down wheel stud in, installed it with this style installer: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=97 . Fronts were off car cause I was packing the bearings Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 Does any one have a pic of the ground down stud? Both for my knowledge, and for reference. Doing this next week. This should probably be sticky. Quote Link to comment
Hoosier77 Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 ground down wheel stud WTF!?!?!?!?! are you guys ok? if you are going to run titan wheels on a drum brake 620, 520, 521 or any of the above swapped with a beebani disc brake kit you need to purchase dorman wheel studs part number 610-323 they do not make a longer stud in the m12-1.25 thread but they have a 54mm stud (just over 2 inches) in a m12-1.5 the knurl on the stock stud is 12.83 mm and the new stud has a knurl of 12.80mm which is slightly over .001" the stud fits perfectly into place and is the perfect length to run a 1/4" spacer and still have more than enough stud left to safely bolt the wheel on. With these studs you will not have to grind up you brand new wheel studs. In fact i just ordered 12 of these studs yesterday. if you like I can take a picture of it installed in the hub. 1 Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 where did you get the Dorman studs that are notched for 521s? You do know what we're talking about right? The factory stud is notched with a flat side on the head Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 ground down wheel stud WTF!?!?!?!?! are you guys ok? if you are going to run titan wheels on a drum brake 620, 520, 521 or any of the above swapped with a beebani disc brake kit you need to purchase dorman wheel studs part number 610-323 they do not make a longer stud in the m12-1.25 thread but they have a 54mm stud (just over 2 inches) in a m12-1.5 the knurl on the stock stud is 12.83 mm and the new stud has a knurl of 12.80mm which is slightly over .001" the stud fits perfectly into place and is the perfect length to run a 1/4" spacer and still have more than enough stud left to safely bolt the wheel on. With these studs you will not have to grind up you brand new wheel studs. In fact i just ordered 12 of these studs yesterday. if you like I can take a picture of it installed in the hub. 521 studs are different than all the other studs,Stud. 1 Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 521 studs are different than all the other studs,Stud. Now that is signature worthy!! :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Hoosier77 Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 ah shit imma stud!!! that is weird the infinity parts catalog has them listed as the same, False alarm, disreguard!! grind away ratsuners!! Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 Now now, before you guys get your tighty-whities twisted up any tighter than they are guys~ reread my post. I'm not reinventing the wheel here~ just the way to get them bolted on! Hehehe... For those that *STILL* don't get it~ I'll go out tomorrow after church, take it all apart, and post pics.... I bet I've been wrenchin longer than most ya'll been ALIVE~ so show some respect for the old guy.... Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Now now, before you guys get your tighty-whities twisted up any tighter than they are guys~ reread my post. I'm not reinventing the wheel here~ just the way to get them bolted on! Hehehe... For those that *STILL* don't get it~ I'll go out tomorrow after church, take it all apart, and post pics.... I bet I've been wrenchin longer than most ya'll been ALIVE~ so show some respect for the old guy.... Whoa. Slow down there Turbo. There's only one person that didn't know what we know. Don't get ahead of yourself, Rook. He retracted his statement... Not to mention I gave you props for your previous thread. Knowing when you're ahead is key. Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Whoa. Slow down there Turbo. There's only one person that didn't know what we know. Don't get ahead of yourself, Rook. He retracted his statement... Not to mention I gave you props for your previous thread. Knowing when you're ahead is key. Okay, just one question, I see the green glass~ is that a Mickey's you're hidin behind, or a Perrier?:D You know, that's the problem with typed :blink: rather than spoken words~ no one can tell when yer funnin round! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 It's probably a Stella :lol: Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Nope. $1.50 Rolling Rock at 15th St. Pub. When it was 15th St. Pub. Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Nope. $1.50 Rolling Rock at 15th St. Pub. When it was 15th St. Pub. Aaahhh.... Rolling rock~ haven't had one of THOSE ina while! Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.