electronic dizzy help

[BEEBANI]

I've seen either on here or NWDE lately someone talking about 620's with the electronic dist. needing a ground directly to the dist. My '76 has currently developed a timing issue and I'm wondering if not having a good ground to the dist. could be a problem?

[]2eDeYe]

Do you run a ground from the dist. body to the motor?

I would think bolting it to the motor would take care of grounding it. Interesting....

[Charboucher]

i'll take a look at mine today but I have a matchbox eltric dizzy, so i'll let you know whats hooked up on mine as soon as I can. migt be later tonight though, wife and kid are sick :(

[BEEBANI]

I don't know, I caught someone saying something about it in a thread. It started running like shit when Jeff was down and I haven't been able to figure it out. The only thing that has changed in the last six months is the new coil I put on. I noticed yesterday that there were extra wires coming off of the resistor. I looked at the wiring diagram and found that there was supposed to be an external condensor (which has been removed) and the wires were taped up.

 

If I could get a picture of the resistor and how the wires are attached, the wiring diagram only gives you wire colors up to the resistor but not the ones that actually go to the coil.

[hang_510]

your new coil could have an internal resistor ???

 

the matchbox dizzy does not require any additonal resistance. HTH

[BEEBANI]

Nope, it says right on it external resistor required.

[datsunaholic]

That's because the Cali '76 EI system used the points-type coil, so when you buy one in the store they sell you the external-ballast required type.

 

The problem is, the '76 Cali system is completely different than anything else. The EI box uses the ballast resistor (the '76 Cali system has a 4-terminal, twin resistor setup) to ballast out both the coil and the EI module.

 

So to get a "Picture" you'd have to find someone with a '76 Cali truck that hasn't been modified. Not a simple thing, since '76 trucks are mostly just parts sources (especially in Cali).

[BEEBANI]

So how would I hook up a 78-80 coil to this system and get rid of that resistor?

[datsunaholic]

OK, I misspoke- don't need the resistor for the Ign Module. That 4-terminal resistor had me a bit confused because my astigmatism makes following the little lines a pain.

 

OK, here's how it's wired:

 

The 5 terminals on the Ign Module are (from Black wire)

 

- Ground (Black)

- 12V Ign (Black/white stripe I think)

- Coil Trigger (Blue). This feeds BOTH the Coil (-) and the Tach Signal.

- Dist Pickup Feed (Red)

- Dist Pickup Return (Green)

 

The bottom 2 (Red and Green) go straight to the distributor, do not pass go, nor do anything with the coil. They do have a terminal block inline (usually attached to the radiator) but it's just a connecton box.

 

The Resistor Pack has 4 connectors:

 

Top ring lug: Terminal for Coil Fire (it just provides a lug, it's not connected at all to the resistors). Has 2 wires, one goes to the center connector on the EI module, the other to Coil Neg.

 

Top spade connection: Resistor Output. Has 2 wires: one goes to Coil (+) and the other to the Condenser. The other end of the Condenser is Ground.

 

Bottom Spade connection: one wire, 12V "Start" connection (goes to key switch, only live on Start).

 

Bottom ring lug: Ignition feed. Comes from fuse box (switched 12V)- on with Ignition.

 

The problem is the diagram says the 2 spade connectors- one to Condenser, the other to START both show as the same color wires. Dumb, but only the Cali version used that funky resistor. It never sends 12V to the coil, the START just has less resistance.

 

So, to clean it up to use a EI (unballasted) coil, you hook the 12V IGN feed (Black white stripe) to coil Positive, leave the START wire off, and hook the coil trigger wire to the Coil (-) terminal (blue wire). If you really want the condenser, hook it to coil (+) and ground the other side to the fenderwell.

 

This would retain the original 5-wire remote box.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Jason you may be looking for the thread i started regarding the EI swap using the GM HEI module. Heres the link...btw over @nwde I responded too..:cool:

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=203

Id go this route & eliminate all the "tweeker" wiring issues.