Best head/cam combo?

[metalmonkey47]

Soon as my tax return comes in, I'm doing a Z22 build for the 210. I'm a L noob so I need advice!

 

 

What's a good head/cam combo? I plan on using an L head instead of a NAPZ head. It's gonna be a DD, so I need something that's not gonna give me headaches!

Next question is, does the Z22 and L series use the same distributor?

 

 

More questions to come as I ponder the engine build...... I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row before I jump headfirst into it

[Zeusimo]

http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm#

 

L series engine internal parts specifications and modifications

While searching for measurements of L and Z motor internal specs, I have found numerous errors in available published data sources. Many of these incorrect measurements originate from the Honzowetz book HOW TO MODIFY NISSAN OHC ENGINE. Honzowetz worked at Nissan Motorsports and appearantly knew Z cars but he really neglected the quality of the 4 cylinder info in the book. Even Nissan Motorsports catalog specifications are not always correct, they are sometimes guilty of truncating important decimals. The incorrect specs from the Honzowetz book were re-published in a 510 again backissue and are found on other enthusiast websites (datsuns.com, ugly datsun page). Do not trust everything you see! I have not completely verified all this data myself, it is just my best attempt to straighten out the prevailing confusion. Verify specifications yourself before buying parts!

 

The block heights listed in the Honzowetz book for the different L and NAPS-Z motors are the height from the oil pan surface to top deck. This is not a particularly useful number if you are trying to compute piston deck height at TDC. I researched a bit and came up with the more usefull measurements for height from crank centerline to top of block. With the crank centerline-to-deck measurements inhand, it was easy to see that there were some mistakes in the rod lengths in the Honzowetz data, especially among the NAPS-Z motors. I was able to double check some of the suspicious measurements in other sources. Knowing the crank stoke, deck height and piston pin height, I was able to make some reasonable guesses as to what rods Nissan actually used in different motor to achieve near zero deck height of the piston at TDC. (most of the L, Z series have the piston slightly below the block deck at TDC). With the corrected information, I experimented with a spreadsheet to design some hybrid crank, rod, piston, block combination. HOW TO MODIFY recommends not letting the top of the piston protrude further than 0.3mm above the block at TDC. The following is what I have come up with. Please comment if you have verifiable corrections to any of my measurements. Did I miss any other useful combinations?

 

A NAPS-Z20, Z22 or Z24 block can be modified to use a L-series cylinder head for better performance potential. A stock NAPS-Z head probably has performance equal to a stock L series head but modification potential for the NAPS-Z is limited. Altho a crossflow head may seem like a better design, the NAPS name is an acronym for Nissan Anti Pollution System and this head was not designed with serious performance or modification potential in mind. The Z20E head I examined had 37mm intake ports and 42mm intake/ 38mm exhaust valves and 45cc (dual plug) open chambers. The ports are set too low so there is a sharp bend in the port "shielding" much of the valve and little porting can be done due to close proximity of water jacket. The valvetrain geometry prohibits the use of larger intake valves or high lift/duration camshaft because the valves would contact eachother. It is possible to modify in order to adapt a L series head onto a NAPS-Z bottom end. Building a L/Z hybrid engine is much more envolved than just bolting the necessary parts together. If you have never rebuilt an engine or dont know what you are doing, just stick with a L20B swap!

To use the NAPS-Z block with an L series head, you need to use all the parts foreward of the block from an L20B. Use the front timing cover to match the L series head pattern as the NAPS-Z is slightly different shape where it seals to head around the timing chain. You also need the longer L20B timing chain and matching gears, guides, tensioner and longer L series distributrer drive spindle. The NAPS-Z blocks lack a chain oiler peg. You could drill the block and add a chain oiler peg but this is probably unnecessary since L series front cam tower and the chain tensioner both oil the chain. Im told the L28 6 cylinders didn't even use a oiler peg. Drill a dipstick hole on appropriate boss on right side of block and plug the left side dipstick hole since it will now be covered by exhust manifold. Use an L series dipstick and tube in the new hole, the NAPS-Z dipstick wrong length. Use an original 510 L16 oil pan and oil pickup, NAPS-Z or L20B oil pan wont clear the 510 crossmemember and steering. You will need a headgasket with larger bore if cylinders are over 86mm. The cheap but difficult solution is to use a NAPS-Z headgasket. The shape of the timing cover to cylinder head gasket surface is different between L series and NAPS-Z, headgasket modifications are necessary to seal front cover section if using the larger bore NAPS-Z head gasket (use an entire NAPS-Z gasket and seal the front cover with silicon or cut and splice the front segment of a L series gasket onto a cut NAPS-Z gasket.) The NAPS-Z gasket lacks the valve "eyebrows" so the gasket bore is a true circle, this would prohibit beneficial grinding of the head chamber and block to unshroud the valves, probably best to use the 89mm Z24 gasket even if on a 87mm Z22 block since it will allow the most unshrouding within cirular bore. The NAPS-Z block has all the water passages of the L series (plus a few extra) however the NAPS-Z gasket covers some of these coolant passages that should be open for an L series head, drill holes in the NAPS-Z gasket to match an L series gasket for correct coolant circulation. Even easier to assemble, buy the expensive Nissan Motorsports 88mm big bore L-series gasket. The opening of the cylinder head oil passage at the headgasket should be elongated to better match to the oil passage of NAPS-Z block.

 

The NAPS-Z20E block that I checked had headbolt threads same as L20B block but I have heard that some NAPS-Z blocks have the headbolts threads deeper in the block hole, you can obtain more clamping force for headbolt by using all long length headbolts (turbo 280zx headbolts part #11059-P7600). Countersink or mill down the upper face of cam tower by 0.5" where headbolt contacts camtower so the headbolt sits 0.5" lower into block. For headbolts that do not thread through camtowers, use .350" thick washers below the longer headbolts to keep them from bottoming out in hole.

 

For the taller NAPS-Z 2.4 block, do all the above modifications, lengthen the L20B timing chain by adding 4 extra links of datsun chain using 2 master links from a Mercedes-Benz timing chain (#000997-0598), lengthen the L20B timing cover to seal the extra 3/4" block height (welding and machining involved), and modify motor mounts/oil pan so engine sits low enough to close hood. (or use hood scoop!) Another method I have heard of is to space the entire front x-member downward from the chassie and then relocate the controll arm pick-up points upward. Ground clearance to oil pan will be minimal. Most used NAPS-Z 24 blocks will be cracked around at the headbolts, finding a good used core can be difficult.

[MicroMachinery]

You're gonna use an L20b timing cover, so you'll need the L series distributor and distributor drive shaft. Read this; it's a documented, step-by-step LZ22 build.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21285-lz22-engine/

 

There's another one in this thread:

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/25497-sealiks-shit/

 

That info above is good. However, the plus side to these two sources, are that they're being done/have been done by real live people that are actually active regulars here on Ratsun.. there's no "he said, she said", you can go straight to the source and ask questions, there's no need for guess work.

[metalmonkey47]

Thanks for the links guys! Very informative. I'm reading intently now I can't wait to kick this engines ass when I get it in the car!

[philcas1987]

Ka swap!!! Done and done!!!! I thought coilovers was next? What happened .

[metalmonkey47]

Ka swap!!! Done and done!!!! I thought coilovers was next? What happened .

 

I can't afford KA. :( It's my DD, so it's mandatory that it's not down long. L swap is done easily overnight if I have it all prepped and ready.

 

It was, but I'm having engine problems. I had to rearrange my priorities. It would be irresponsible of me to blow the money on suspension while having engine problems.

 

Engine>suspension. Coilovers will be after I get it running healthy. It burns too much oil.

[Skib]

the cam and head is going to depend on how you want it to behave.

 

 

where you want your torque range at? what do you want for a CR?

[Master-O-Turbonics]

I'm already ahead of you here....

and have most of the rotating components you need.....

here's an 1998cc engine combo I designed (long rod L/Z 20)

L20B/Z20 crank (I have a Z20E crank needs refinishing to .010/.010)

Z22 rods (you are gonna need those)

Forged Mahle pistons (sitting in my garage new in box, never handled, paid $415)

you need an L20B block or a Z20E block bored 1mm over to 86mm(I got a core L20B)

 

this gets you one bad high revving shortblock... The pistons are LIGHT weight and have graphite coatings on the skirts. Pistons sit just below the deck

9.6:1 compression with peanut A87(accounted for a 39cc chamber) or 8.8:1 with a 45cc open chamber head.

 

OR

 

use a Z22 crank and L20B rods and the same pistons.... not as good rod/stroke ratio but 140 more CC. I have a set of reconditioned L20B rods still in box sitting on the shelf but no crank. more bottom end torque but less RPMs than the above setup.

8.9:1 with open chamber head 9.7:1 with a peanut A87 on a stock gasket

 

this makes a great street shortblock

 

If you want to come over and see my setup(square headlight 210 getting the L/Z hybrid with neither of the above combos) let me know

[Master-O-Turbonics]

Next question is, does the Z22 and L series use the same distributor?

 

 

NO! Z22 has 8 plug wires. L has 4.

[metalmonkey47]

the cam and head is going to depend on how you want it to behave.

 

 

where you want your torque range at? what do you want for a CR?

 

 

I want a little low torque out of it with a fairly low compression ratio. It's gonna be a DD and I don't like screwing with octane, so I don't want anything major. I want to make some real power though, but keep it streetable.

 

I'm already ahead of you here....

and have most of the rotating components you need.....

here's an 1998cc engine combo I designed (long rod L/Z 20)

L20B/Z20 crank (I have a Z20E crank needs refinishing to .010/.010)

Z22 rods (you are gonna need those)

Forged Mahle pistons (sitting in my garage new in box, never handled, paid $415)

you need an L20B block or a Z20E block bored 1mm over to 86mm(I got a core L20B)

 

this gets you one bad high revving shortblock... The pistons are LIGHT weight and have graphite coatings on the skirts. Pistons sit just below the deck

9.6:1 compression with peanut A87(accounted for a 39cc chamber) or 8.8:1 with a 45cc open chamber head.

 

OR

 

use a Z22 crank and L20B rods and the same pistons.... not as good rod/stroke ratio but 140 more CC. I have a set of reconditioned L20B rods still in box sitting on the shelf but no crank. more bottom end torque but less RPMs than the above setup.

8.9:1 with open chamber head 9.7:1 with a peanut A87 on a stock gasket

 

this makes a great street shortblock

 

If you want to come over and see my setup(square headlight 210 getting the L/Z hybrid with neither of the above combos) let me know

 

Sounds badass man, I didn't know you were working on that! Where exactly do you live? I'll have to come take a peek.

[datzenmike]

Next question is, does the Z22 and L series use the same distributor?

 

 

NO! Z22 has 8 plug wires. L has 4.

 

The Z22 uses a different one but the very early '80 non California Z20E in the S-110 had a 4 plug head and matching 4 plug matchbox dizzy. For '81 they all were 8 plug. The '80 and '81 Canadian S-110 used only the 4 plug heads (I have one of each and both dizzys)

[datzenmike]

Next question is, does the Z22 and L series use the same distributor?

 

 

NO! Z22 has 8 plug wires. L has 4.

 

The Z22 uses a different one but the very early '80 non California Z20E in the S-110 had a 4 plug head and matching 4 plug matchbox dizzy. For '81 they all were 8 plug. The '80 and '81 Canadian S-110 used only the 4 plug heads (I have one of each and both dizzys)

 

To use an L series dizzy on a Z22 just swap the drive spindle too.

 

The Z20E head I examined had 37mm intake ports and 42mm intake/ 38mm exhaust valves and 45cc (dual plug) open chambers.

 

I think he got this wrong... The Z20S head was likely the 45cc chamber head. I've measured two Z20E heads an '80 and an '81 200sx, and both were 12cc larger.