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Weber carb help please


SRSANDS

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Ok guys I need some Weber 32 36 help.This carb is on a L16 for starters. Ok, motor is timed 12dbtc. Truck idles high with th idle scresw backed all the way off. The mixture screw all the way in high idle and rich. Any counter clockwise turning of mixture screw it gets too rich. Leaves black spots on my driveway. I can drive it. If I just ease into the gas it seems to be ok. If I push the petal a little harder it stumbles. If I ease into it slowly and I get to fourth on the freeway at the upper rpms it surges. But I can pull the chok 3/4 way while drivig and it has no hesitation and is smooth but of course dies at a stop. Can anyone tell me what set up for jets are being used on their L16. I see the dimequarterly has a recommended sizing for all of them but at 5 bucks a pop per jet I would be at 75 bucks just to try to find the sweet spot. I hate carbs!!! I bought a carb from Kiznook awhile ago for my LZ motor and it was incredible, it ran perfect when I bolted it on the LZ and then I put it on my L16 and it was still just perfect. I never got to see what was inside but I know it had a 40 idle and a 60 idle on the secondary.

 

Let em know if anyone can help. Turning the mixture screw all the way in then back out 11/2 to two turns wont work. All the way in raises the idle. WTF

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If you screw the idle all the way in, and it runs better -- then you have an air leak. The wrong jetting can't cause that. But a missing part can, or some air leak like the choke pull off diaphgram leaking. Sometimes it's as simple as a loose air jet.

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I bought a new Weber and it ran like shit. After looking around I found a little brass plug was missing in the side of the carb was making a vacuum leak. Plugged it and it ran like a top!

 

That was my first thought when I found a Secoondary air bleeder hole just below the choke plate. Plugged it and it was just one of the issues. I will keep looking at it.

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you wrote:

it ran perfect when I bolted it on the LZ and then I put it on my L16 and it was still just perfect.

 

so whats the proplem? its perfect.

 

try turning the dizzy to 7 deg. and adjust again.

 

Ps make sure the vac adv is from the carb not the manifold

 

blow out the idle jet to make sure no rust has plugged it and maybe blow out where the idle jet plgged in to.

If truck sat for a long time could be lots of rust in there.

did you open up the fuel filter to ck to see what it loooked like in side.

 

make sure the 2nd barrel has the spring that keeps it closed. otherwise could cause a vac lost

 

all else fails Do a KA swap as others when they cant figure out a weber DGV

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whoah.... seriously? .... moved it.... from a larger motor.... to a smaller motor, and wonder why it doesnt work.... *facepalm* ok, to start off with, a stock right out of the box webber 32/36 ran a little rich on my l20b (with a mildly porsted head, lopey cam, a +2mm bore & pistons, and msd full ignition) because of the jetting... and on several different posts, people have had this problem as well (i dont understand why) because if the carb is cherry, no vac leaks, and its clean and such... and then you set it ontop of an even smaller l16... and wonder why its not working right? im for sure there are a ton of posts about the EXACT same problem... and everyone else immedeately goes to the default no brainer fixes like "oh its a vac leak" .... also i agree with bansi.... 12 deg is a bit extreme (imo) 7 is what my truck runs

 

 

 

also... with your question on jetting, look at the sticky labled "Weber DCOE Stock Jetting Information! " ....

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Bullet

Be honest all I ever do is just really bolt them on and they seem to work.

 

at idle with the L16/18s I had 50 idle jet is about right. i tried 55 and 60 and I didnt notice that much change.

 

SRSAND should just be working on getting it to idle first. This is a idle circut only. and not other jetting matters as of right now.

To get to idle means idle jet is open.

has good vacuum/no leaks/2nd barrel is fulley closed,ck the spring.

timming of motor/avc adv.

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Bullet

Be honest all I ever do is just really bolt them on and they seem to work.

 

at idle with the L16/18s I had 50 idle jet is about right. i tried 55 and 60 and I didnt notice that much change.

 

SRSAND should just be working on getting it to idle first. This is a idle circut only. and not other jetting matters as of right now.

To get to idle means idle jet is open.

has good vacuum/no leaks/2nd barrel is fulley closed,ck the spring.

timming of motor/avc adv.

 

 

so? it idles... high... i agreed with you, adv is too high... ok, problem solved... i was on the next issue, the ragged running, and the surging...

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whoah.... seriously? .... moved it.... from a larger motor.... to a smaller motor, and wonder why it doesnt work.... *facepalm* ok, to start off with, a stock right out of the box webber 32/36 ran a little rich on my l20b (with a mildly porsted head, lopey cam, a +2mm bore & pistons, and msd full ignition) because of the jetting... and on several different posts, people have had this problem as well (i dont understand why) because if the carb is cherry, no vac leaks, and its clean and such... and then you set it ontop of an even smaller l16... and wonder why its not working right? im for sure there are a ton of posts about the EXACT same problem... and everyone else immedeately goes to the default no brainer fixes like "oh its a vac leak" .... also i agree with bansi.... 12 deg is a bit extreme (imo) 7 is what my truck runs

 

 

 

also... with your question on jetting, look at the sticky labled "Weber DCOE Stock Jetting Information! " ....

 

Aperently my post was confusing....I put my 32/36 off my LZ22 521 (which ran perfect) onto my L16 521 and that too ran extremely good. Then I put the carb back onto my LZ22 521 and sold it sunday. Got another weber from a local and thats the one I havebeen trying to dial in.

 

 

Bullet

Be honest all I ever do is just really bolt them on and they seem to work.

 

at idle with the L16/18s I had 50 idle jet is about right. i tried 55 and 60 and I didnt notice that much change.

 

SRSAND should just be working on getting it to idle first. This is a idle circut only. and not other jetting matters as of right now.

To get to idle means idle jet is open.

has good vacuum/no leaks/2nd barrel is fulley closed,ck the spring.

timming of motor/avc adv.

 

Idles good now. Took it all apart, cleaned, checked and adjusted everything. Now its just the jetting that needs some work.

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maybe run 2 filters. a stock one and a inline one for awhile if the truck has been sitting long.

 

my 521 it plugg a idle jet. I clean it and plugg up again in a minute. I ran 2 filters and cut them open to see how much rust dirt are in there.

The fuel line is exposed to grit from the wheel well and trickles down in the tank. So mack sure those clamps are tight

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I guess that can happen buying used parts from Ratsun members. The shit just dont work right

 

 

Zuum510 and Datto510 came over w/ a 521 running bad. I cked the ignition then said swap the carb. when they finally did it was the carb. that carb later was sold to maybe another ratsun member.

 

ask datto510 but it had a hesiatation proplem also

 

 

make sure the weber adapter not cracked

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I'm gonna take the adapter off and inspect it....could be the lower gasket that's leaking closer to the valve cover that I can't get spray too reach....me and Datdoug worked on it for three hours last night. Thought it might be the points ...replaced with a matchbox and still bad. I will figure it out eventually. Is there any internal parts that have O rings that might be shot? Perhaps a bad power valve.....I dunno

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