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Mallory Distributor Ignition wiring?


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I'm sure this is easy, but every time I try to find a diagram on the web it say the page is no good. I just got an L18 engine from a fellow Ratsun member and it came with an Mallory Dist. on it. It didn't come with the ignition box though. The dist. has three wires going into a square plug. 1 red, 1 green, and 1 black wire. How can I wire this up? Do I need to buy parts from Mallory? If anyone has this ignition system let me know. I'd love to hook this up to something like a 6AL box type ignition. Any help would be great. :blink:

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I have my doubts about how much better this is than a stock matchbox. If connected to a remote igniter box or HEI module from a GM dizzy and had a low impedance coil to match, it would be better than a points one for sure.

 

Here's how the wiring is for the stock EI dizzy (without a matchbox or remote igniter) using a GM HEI module. The black wire is likely a ground....

 

GMHEIconnections.jpg

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Sounds like a Unilite set up.

 

Unilite like the stock coil and ballast otherwise the module could pop. Its in the fine print!!!!!!!!!!!

 

run your other distributor first so you know the engine works.

 

YOu can look this up But I assume one wire.will be 12volt switcable 1 to the minus side coil and the other to the shutter.

 

I think a Pertronix is a installation. 2wires

 

The wiring of the distrubutor itself is very easy. There are three wires. One to the positive side of the coil, one to the negative side of the coil, and one to ground. The original wire hook-ups are not used, and can be disconnected back at the wiring harness. Make sure all of the wires are hooked up correctly, if not, you'll blow the distributor on the first twist of the key. Now that everything is hooked up right, start the engine. I should start easily if all the marks were lined up. If not, a couple of degree rotations, each way between attempts are usually close enought to get it started. Once its started, set the timing to factory specs, and tighten the hold down bolt.

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Sounds like a Unilite set up.

 

Unilite like the stock coil and ballast otherwise the module could pop. Its in the fine print!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ummm... shooting from the hip of experience (and I've run a couple different Unilites, amongst others) there is NO ignition system currently on the market that requires the use of a ballast resistor, othe than stock points type systems. Admittedly it's been a while since the purchase of said ignition, so if I've missed something I'd like to hear.!

AFAIK the only dizzy Mallory (or anyone else for that matter) has made for the L's is a quality replacement dualpoint.

 

I humbly bow~ if I stand corrected....

 

Peace~ Scott

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I have my doubts about how much better this is than a stock matchbox. If connected to a remote igniter box or HEI module from a GM dizzy and had a low impedance coil to match, it would be better than a points one for sure.

 

Here's how the wiring is for the stock EI dizzy (without a matchbox or remote igniter) using a GM HEI module. The black wire is likely a ground....

 

GMHEIconnections.jpg

 

Thanks, Mike, for the pic explaining what I was looking for! It's not so much as whether one "matchbox" is better than another~ but the fact remains all these little magic boxes do is convert the ebb-n-flow of a magnetic analog signal to a digital on/off signal. Now, if you're travelling crosscountry thru Halfway, OR, or Bumfuque, Egypt, do you wanna try buyin a matchbox~ or an HEI module you can practically find at a frickin 7/11? Factory matchboxes run $150+ (never priced one aftermarket)~HEI modules are 20-30$ depending on how many horses are in the town you broke down in... I can't even count the number of spares I've got layin round~ or in my vehicles~

THE CHEAPEST INSURANCE KNOWN TO MAN!!

 

Peace~ Scott

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Start Bowing!!!!!!

They made a Unilte for L motors . The dual point just forget them. but the made a electric one also.@300$ I can spend my money elsewhere.

Its to be used with the stock coil and ballast in the fine print it will say.

Otherwise removing the ballast will cook a POINT coil as its design to run LOW current and could Pop the Unilte module.

 

V8 guys the current load is different and SO they might get away with it.If you ran them before.

 

 

Most points to eleltric trigger conversions are designed to use the stock componets unless it says to swap out or remove componets

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