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HomeMade Electronic Ignition


max2004

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Electronic ignition modules may be replaced with custom made

or home made units for the purpose of improving perf/mileage etc...

 

Just wondered if a person could apply this to the Z24 engine

so as to eliminate the distributor ignition module or part thereof.

(I don't think you could totally eliminate it)

 

The 2 plug per cyl system appears to cause a lot of trouble?

 

Anyone tried replacing the electronic ignition module on a Z24

for the purpose of turning it into a 1 plug per engine?

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Electronic ignition modules may be replaced with custom made

or home made units for the purpose of improving perf/mileage etc...

 

Just wondered if a person could apply this to the Z24 engine

so as to eliminate the distributor ignition module or part thereof.

(I don't think you could totally eliminate it)

 

The 2 plug per cyl system appears to cause a lot of trouble?

 

Anyone tried replacing the electronic ignition module on a Z24

for the purpose of turning it into a 1 plug per engine?

 

Just disconnect one coil wire and you have single plug operation but it won't run well:

 

The NAPS Nissan Anti Pollution System uses large quantities of recirculated exhaust (EGR) to lower high cylinder temperatures which are the cause of nitrous oxides. To burn these lean mixtures two plugs are used and they work well. Two plugs shorten the burn time as well allowing less ignition advance for the same power resulting in less pre igition. Dual plugs are the way to go, ask any race car driver with single plugs if he would like dual plugs and he will almost always say YES I DO!! I can't see how you could improve the ignition system with something home made. If it ain't broke ... don't fix it!

 

The ignition module fires two coils at the same time. One set of plugs near the exhaust and another near the intake valves on each cylinder.

 

People tend to run them with out enough maintenance. If one plug fails there is a second one to fire the cylinder so it seems like everything is working fine until the whole system fails totally. There are 9 plug wires on the small cap and old wires will easily arc between each other, just as the cap and rotor will carbon track if not replaced regularly. Maintenance is the answer.

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Thus far, I understand the dynamics of the Z24 engine 8 plug system, and the maintainance thereof.

I do not in any way shape or form question this fine Nissan design.

 

Having learned a GREAT deal from this Forum, I must commend you for your knowledge.

 

I'm just trying to establish if it's possible to run this engine with

4 spark plugs AND if anyone has been able to do it successfully.

- Which coil was disconnected?

- Was distributor turned to compensate and even out timing?

- was ECU changed?

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Mod up a front timing cover,swap on a u67 L series head,grab a matchbox dizzy with a msd and taylor 8mm wires,port a stock intake,get a weber dgv,custom engine and tranny mounts and a header and your set.Or dont.

I dont see how your idea would improve anything there.Just give it a good tune up and go.

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I heard about a kind of distributor that doesn't even need a battery. What?

 

Magneto ignition?

 

max2004: I've heard it's feasible to replace the module with a Chevy HEI unit. Mean to try that someday. But I don't think that's what you're looking for.

Maybe finding an older single plug head?

 

That's the only input I have :D

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Thus far, I understand the dynamics of the Z24 engine 8 plug system, and the maintainance thereof.

I do not in any way shape or form question this fine Nissan design.

 

:lol::lol:

 

Having learned a GREAT deal from this Forum, I must commend you for your knowledge.

 

:D:D

 

I'm just trying to establish if it's possible to run this engine with

4 spark plugs AND if anyone has been able to do it successfully.

- Which coil was disconnected?

- Was distributor turned to compensate and even out timing?

- was ECU changed?

 

Yes it could be run on one plug per cylinder. The Canadian and some early US '80-'81 200sx with the Z20E motor had only 4 plugs on the intake side so I know it works. The distributor had 4 plug wires and not the usual eight. Find one of these distributors, or just disconnect the exhaust coil on yours.

 

I don't remember which is which coil. Just disconnect one and see which set of wires is still firing and adjust if needed.

 

Timing will now need to be increased from the 3-5 degree advance to around 10-12 degrees.

 

There is no ECU for the Z24 motor unless you mean the ECC Electronic Controlled Carb '84 and on, which has a control box under the driver's seat. Single plug operation shouldn't affect it.

 

Yes you can run on one plug but the advantages of dual plugs outweigh this. Better mileage, smoother running and lower emissions are all a result of shorter burn time and more complete combustion when using two.

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You're in Kamloops??? Just read your 'profile',I'm just down hill on Van Isl. near Courtenay! Looks like the 15 amp fuse for the electric fuel pump is missing too! Let me know how you make out. I probably have a spare Z 8 plug distributor around if you need it, just PM me. Let's get her going. (I have the Nissan factory service manual for the '84 too)

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Ya your only a stones throw away . . .

I was going to find TDC this AM, but it's -18c right now.

Had a look in the box and found 3 more distributors, add that

to the 2 under the hood and I could open a small j/y.

There's no way all these distribs could be bad.

 

Last owner also thought it was the pump so put a different

one in there, says it will run for a while then flood out.

Something about it being too much pressure.

I attached a pic ::

http://members.shaw.ca/cubit/vehicles/84nissan/s/fuelpump02.jpg

 

I haven't located the fusible link yet, do you know where it is?

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Ya your only a stones throw away . . .

I was going to find TDC this AM, but it's -18c right now.

Had a look in the box and found 3 more distributors, add that

to the 2 under the hood and I could open a small j/y.

There's no way all these distribs could be bad.

 

Last owner also thought it was the pump so put a different

one in there, says it will run for a while then flood out.

Something about it being too much pressure.

I attached a pic ::

http://members.shaw.ca/cubit/vehicles/84nissan/s/fuelpump02.jpg

 

I haven't located the fusible link yet, do you know where it is?

 

I have one that looks just like that one. From an '84 Maxima L24E (EFI) so high pressure. Maybe all it needs is a low 3-5 lb pump? Don't forget your fuse is missing for the electric pump.

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Fired it up this afternoon!!!!!!!!!

After sitting on a farm for 2 years.

She smoked a bit but settled out to a fine idle.

Even the carb seems to be jetting OK

locked hubs, she moved OK

here's where I set the timing ::

http://members.shaw.ca/cubit/vehicles/84nissan/s/dist002.jpg

 

datzenmike . . . you were correctamondo!!

it musta been the fuse, thanks man!

 

What do they make these things out of?

 

now I know it runs, so can move on with the project.

 

thanks

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Alright! Just get it runnin' and get it home.

 

Get that oil and filter changed first thing. Then the fuel filters. Anti freeze??

Set the timing and the valves. If it looks like a runner get some plug wires and a good cap and rotor on the distributor. The Z motor has a lot of wires crammed on a distributor cap. When they get old and worm they tend to cross fire and arc between wires because they're so close together.

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coolant was drained b4 I got it.

yes, fresh oil is a must . . .

warmer today, I'll filler up with anti-freeze and let her run a whiles.

front brakes seem to be seized

got new leads on it and 3 spare caps here

bit of a clusterf**k under the hood, lots of bare wires etc . . .

 

still can't believe it was just a fuse . . .

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The front vented rotors are probably pretty rusty. If you have time wire wheel or sand paper them clean. Put a sheet of 80 grit paper on a flat surface and if the pads are OK, take them out and sand in a figure 8 design to clean and true them up. This is only if the rotors aren't all gouged up.

 

There were lots of hoses and wires on the Z24 engine and the p/o probably tried to disconnect stuff.

 

Forgot to ask, was the electric pump wired through the ignition? I saw that the fuse for it was missing out of the box.

 

 

REQUIRED INFO ::

what years/models share the same parts/engine etc.. Z24 motor?

 

The '84 through '86 Z24 engines are basically the same. '86 was the last year for the Z24 and the first year for the 'new' Z24i with Throttle Body Injection. The Z24i will swap with the Z24 if the TBI is removed and the Z24 carb/manifold/distributor and drive spindle are used on it. Pre '83 front suspension will not swap onto the '84 or newer trucks, nor will the front brakes or rear differential. The '81 and on FW5W71B 5spd will switch (just check length) The post '86 Hardbodys used the C type shifter with integral transfer case. The 2wd 5 spd might work, don't know about length. If it's the same length it should work. The '84-'86 rear differential carriers, (C-200) do not match the later '87 D21 Hardbody's H-233. The '83 and '84 boxes and hoods are the same, but not the ones before or after. The '83 boxes may still have a stamped Nissan tailgate,with a Datsun decal on them, the '84 was the first fully Nissan truck. The '83 through '86 dash is different from previous years and has round gauges and optional clock and tach, very nice. Cornering lamps, bumpers, front aprons, headlight cases and grilles are consistent between the 1983-1986. Most other body parts (like fenders) are interchangeable between any model year.

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