Resurrection 510 Turbocharged SR20NA

[BayArea510]

:no:I made A HUUGGEE mistake! I did not change the oil pump in the rebuild...S.O.B!!! :hmm:

I could've used some common sense and logic as to replace this critical component.

Now that I back track, I can see the how and why of a spun bearing?? It all make sense.. I spun a rod from oil starvation due to low oil pressure.

I followed the FSM from the S14, I think everyone does, right? And it says warm up the engine, idle at no load and check with a pressure gauge, the gague reading should be more than 11psi. Then It says to test at 3200 rpm and a pressure of 46-57 psi.

Here are my results:

At Startup- cold engine 60psi never went over

Warm engine- Water Temp 170-190F 8-9psi

Cruising 20-30psi

At around 3000-3400rpm 40-50psi

When I rev it up it never went over 60psi

 

IMO I think this is a bad sign. I did some reading online research and in some forums some state:

Startup- cold engine 65-85 psi

Warm 15-25 psi

Cruising 40-60 psi

Full Throttle 85-100 psi

 

Here is what I ordered last night:

OEM S13 oil pump assembly, S14 pick up/ strainer, oil pump to block O ring, pick up strainer gasket.

 

The F#!**ed Up part is that the engine has to come out one more time!!! Dropping the pans is gonnabe a B!$tch and going through the top I have to get to hard to get bolts on the Turbo Manifold.

Tomorrow I'll be pulling the motor out...

[Xander_42]

That sucks, but good catch, because it doesn't suck nearly as much as not realizing it, and having to do it all again in a couple months.

[BayArea510]

That sucks, but good catch, because it doesn't suck nearly as much as not realizing it, and having to do it all again in a couple months.

No kidding! Would really suck if I had to rebuid it again that soon! Money down the drain!

I do get heavy footed when I drive the 510...hahaa omg I am glad I hooked up my oil pressure gauge. I'll have to fit more gauges to keep things on check.

[BayArea510]

I thought I was almost finished. I think it looks good!

 

[sick620]

That looks clean my man, good work.

[bonvo]

why do you have to pull the motor again? you cant get to the oil pump with it in the car?

[BayArea510]

why do you have to pull the motor again? you cant get to the oil pump with it in the car?

 

Well I thought about changing it with the motor in but it would be too time consuming taking both manifolds off, crawling under to remove steel pan. Plus I read somewhere sealing aluminum pan to new oil pump without removing the aluminum pan can lead to oil leaks.

I pulled the motor out in less than 2hrs and now I'll have all the space I need. :D

[BayArea510]

Today I cleaned up my garage and made room to pull the motor out (AGAIN). I organized all my tools and got right down to it.:cool:

Here is what I ran into:

 

• Oil drained came out black (just a week old)
• Oil smells strong in gas
• OIl appeared thinned out ( from the gas I guess)

Got me thinking again over why I spun a rod to begin with?? :confused:

Oil starvation from improper lubrication? Oil pump? Pick up tube? Worn pick up tube gasket? Worn O ring from pump to block? I am replacing all of the above but I don't think thats going to fix the bigger problem.

I think the low pressure is also being caused by contaminated oil with gas. I think its thinning out the oil, burning it faster and It's gotta be putting some stress to my freshly rebuilt head and bottom, right??

Can it be my fuel pressure regulator adjusted incorrectly? I doubt its the piston rings since it just got rebuilt. If I am running too rich how can lean up the mixture?? Any advise would greatly be appreciated, thnx!

 

[sinner720st]

dont know too much, but i do know you dont want to assume you are running rich and need to lean it out, your running boost if you go lean bad things happen. i have ran things rich as hell and never got fuel in the oil.

 

you have to think about any direct path or less obvious reason.

 

example: leaky mechanical fuel pump on an L series.... not your prob because you are likely running electric pump, but there is some wierd reason

[DISLEXICDIME]

injector sticking open? and leeking

[BayArea510]

injector sticking open? and leeking

 

Okay, that might be the cause. I did replace the injectors with used Q45 370cc injectors I bought on craigslist. How do I check my injectors for leaks with the motor out?? Maybe I did not seat them right on the fuel rail. Can that lead to leaks into the cylinder? :confused:

 

I have the AFPR set at 4BAR

The ECU is tuned for a stock MAF, 370cc injectors, T25 turbo

 

I am gonna put up pics of the spark plugs, and the injectors for more suggestions. Thanks!

[BayArea510]

 

 

[sinner720st]

just one theory (coming from a carb guy) you could turn the motor over with the coil unplugged and your injectors pulled out of the intake so you can actually see them spray, you might could run some hose from your fuel rail to the injector and put the injector in something like a mason jar to keep the mess down...

 

would there be any way some sort of vacuum leak from your fuel pressure reg. get into the oil?

 

 

edit: ^ that might make me look stupid but im just trying to give you an idea...

 

also just noticed, are you not running power brakes?? if that correct how does it feel?

[BayArea510]

I tested all injectors reststance. These are the results

Stock SR20DE Injectors 9 ohms

Q45 370cc Injectors

 

 

1. 11 ohms
2. 12 ohms
3. 8 ohms
4. 8 ohms

Does anyone know the size of SR20DE injectors?

S14 FSM Injector resistance 10-14 ohms

 

Here are what my plugs look like

 

[sinner720st]

do all your plugs look about the same? that one in the picture looks lean... from my readings they should be golden brown, like the perfect s'more marshmallow

[BayArea510]

do all your plugs look about the same? that one in the picture looks lean... from my readings they should be golden brown, like the perfect s'more marshmallow

 

Yeah they all look the same. Black soth on the rim, tan porcelain, Golden brown/greenish tips.

[BayArea510]

I got some goodies today by mail. S14 Oil Pick up, Chain tensioner gasket, oil pick up gasket and oil pump o-ring. I should be getting the oil pump tomorrow.

I haven't comitted to injector replacements just yet. I can buy another set of used 370cc S13 injectors for $100 bucks shipped priority mail. But I am really looking into 555 cc Daeutchwerks they are $390. I already have a bigger MAF N60 off a Maxima. I e-mailed the guy who reflashed my ECU to see how much to reflash for the larger injectors and MAF.

More pics

[fisch]

Wow so much work going on here and you are so close I can almost hear you tearing up the asphalt! Kep going man! You make my twin carbed lz22 look like a dinosaur next to this engine!

[BayArea510]

Wow so much work going on here and you are so close I can almost hear you tearing up the asphalt! Kep going man! You make my twin carbed lz22 look like a dinosaur next to this engine!

 

Thanks! I Turbo'ed it. Blew it. Rebuilt it. Took it Apart and Rebuilding it Again in a nut shell. By the time Iam done I'll know torque specs by memory. :blink:

[BayArea510]

OK I got my oil pump Thursday, yesterday i got a set of used 370cc purple top injectors and the Z32 MAF harness. I am going with the stock set up for now and will probably end up picking up another ECU and reflashing it for bigger injectors and MAF in the future.

In the meantime, I just wanna get the car running with what the ECU is already programmed for 370cc injectors at 4BAR with stock MAF. I checked the old Q45 injectors and two of them read 20ohms and the other 15ohms, I didn't check for leaks because the motor is out. I'll probably check'em after I get the engine back inside.

[BayArea510]

[BayArea510]

Any opinions about what my pistons look like after a week in use??

 

 

[BayArea510]

Oil pumps next to each other. I also wanted to point out the difference between the oil pick ups between the S13 and S14. They support the bracket mount in different spots. For a moment I thought I was not going to be able to use the S14 pick up tube but after a closer look I saw there is a threaded hole for a 10mm bolt between the baffle plate on the griddle.

[BayArea510]

[BayArea510]

The rebuilt head off along with stock cams, cometic gasket and head bolts.