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Just a shitty day


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More of a rant than a tech question.

 

Was wrapping up an L18 engine install in my 521, when my distributor decided to shit the bed. Without even moving the distributor the damn thing decides pretty randomly that its gonna backfire through the carb and then the exhaust and THEN run fine. Was working perfect in the L16, I just don't get it. Of course this is after already going over budget on the damn truck. After pulling the engine, found a PLASTIC clutch bearing sleeve which is only compatible with the USA brand of bearing that it was attached to, too bad I bought a japanese clutch set! (remedied with a japanese clutch sleeve found at autozone, go figure) The felpro intake/exhaust gasket I bought from rockauto was improperly cut (bought a closeout item so no returns, ARGH!). Tried priming the oil pump, but it wasn't building any pressure, ripped the oil pan off which tore the gasket to shreds, found that the oil pickup was infact there and installed correctly, at which time it dawned on me that STUPID ass me was turning the pump the WRONG WAY, autozone had the gasket in stock?? YEP! Lucky. One of the spark plug holes was SLIGHTLY stripped, got lucky and got the plug in without too much incident. The carb gasket is leaking from the backfires (I'll make a new one tomorrow). 2 out of 4 radiator bolts stripped due to rust. Landlord showed up in the middle of the swap and was not too happy.

 

On a happy note, the head on my old motor turned out to be a A87 peanut head! cool.gif

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just an update from today. Went and got the HEI module and other parts I needed. The truck fired up and idled perfectly first try, even timing was dead on at about 10 btdc. Then the trouble started again. The truck has a hiccup just above idle, I figured that since the ignition was all new had to be the carb? Swapped out for a rebuilt weber, same problem. So I know its gotta be either the hei module or the dizzy, I've got 2 spare dizzys, and I will swap out the hei tomorrow.. Anything else that could cause this?

 

Went to try and test drive it after bleeding my new clutch, and the fucking thing just fell on its face. Ok fine. Pull back into the driveway, barely. Went to check timing, shut it off to grab my timing light, turn key, and NOTHING. WTF?! Seriously?? Check all the fuses, good. Test the battery, and its got 13.5 volts. No way the starter shit the bed, maybe the solenoid is stuck? Grab hammer *smack* turn key, nothing. Dammit! Put a screw driver across it and it clicks, click, click, CRUNCH! Fuck you truck, fuck you very much. Try again and it sounds like rocks in a metal bucket, but it starts. Idles fine. No weird sounds, but starter is fucked for sure. Shut her off.

 

Now eating dinner, trying to figure out which cliff to push the SOB off of. angry.gif

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the Felpro intake gaskets are fine you might have put it on wrong. they say intake side on there. Unless you had a round instead of square port.

 

The oil pump you fill till you see oil on both sides. then inatall the pump.

 

 

when using a matcbox dizzy you need to use a EI coil not the point coil otherwise it can heat up. If you use the matchbox with the point coil you still need the ballast resisitor. just hook the B of matchbox to the + side of the ballast.

 

Ok it the truck falls falt on its face. Is the dizz clocked to one side. maxed out? the dizzy should be in the middle of the timming plate. otherwise you might go out of timming once it advances.

 

this is simple fix. Maybe you just have a mismatched stuff or combo of junk parts.

 

 

spark plugs? dont use the aAutolite brand as the guall comming out. use Nippondeso or NGK plugs

 

pumpkin can help.

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the Felpro intake gaskets are fine you might have put it on wrong. they say intake side on there. Unless you had a round instead of square port.

 

 

Done this before, its simple. The intake and exhaust hole were fine, but the holes for the exhaust studs were off like half an inch! I made it work, but will check for leaks once I feel up to working again.

 

The oil pump you fill till you see oil on both sides. then inatall the pump.

 

The engine is a fresh rebuild, so I was priming the engine with oil to prevent it from being damaged on initial startup.

 

when using a matcbox dizzy you need to use a EI coil not the point coil otherwise it can heat up. If you use the matchbox with the point coil you still need the ballast resisitor. just hook the B of matchbox to the + side of the ballast.

 

 

I am using a remote ignitor dizzy with HEI module. This is my first time with this. I have been reading some more about this setup and my problem MAY be the coil with I am using, Its a blue bosch with a ballast. I will Ohm it out later.

 

Ok it the truck falls falt on its face. Is the dizz clocked to one side. maxed out? the dizzy should be in the middle of the timming plate. otherwise you might go out of timming once it advances.

 

 

The truck idles fine, but falls flat on tip in of the throttle, once revved up it revs fine and runs fine, then once the rpms fall back to idle it tries dieing.

 

this is simple fix. Maybe you just have a mismatched stuff or combo of junk parts.

 

No mismatch of junkyard parts, I have once matched set of dizzy, plate, and pedestal, as well as 2 more reman'd remote El dizzys

 

spark plugs? dont use the aAutolite brand as the guall comming out. use Nippondeso or NGK plugs

 

I dont use anything but NGK in my datsuns.

pumpkin can help.

 

 

 

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try the mixture screw.again and speed screw to keep it running and timming.

I run DGV and always ck the idle jet ,so its clean.

 

On a weber DGV install I did for SRSANDS I overtighten the hex nut on back of linkage. and it did a bog right off idle, then seems fine. I loosen the nut and then was fine after that. Maybe it puts a bind on buttfly?

 

the oil pump I fill it with oil then just install it so its in the 11.28 . The 2 motors I did pumped oil with in 15seconds on intial startup.

 

after this I would swap a carb if the same results then ck the ignition.If it changes maybe the accell pump is off abit to cause this off idle response. try loosen up the hex nut then hit the acell and see if it does it again.

I dont know what a blu Bosche coil vaulue is but I assume they need a ballast as those as the old VW coils and assume the ballast was needed as most were point systems.

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try the mixture screw.again and speed screw to keep it running and timming.

I run DGV and always ck the idle jet ,so its clean.

 

On a weber DGV install I did for SRSANDS I overtighten the hex nut on back of linkage. and it did a bog right off idle, then seems fine. I loosen the nut and then was fine after that. Maybe it puts a bind on buttfly?

 

the oil pump I fill it with oil then just install it so its in the 11.28 . The 2 motors I did pumped oil with in 15seconds on intial startup.

 

after this I would swap a carb if the same results then ck the ignition.If it changes maybe the accell pump is off abit to cause this off idle response. try loosen up the hex nut then hit the acell and see if it does it again.

I dont know what a blu Bosche coil vaulue is but I assume they need a ballast as those as the old VW coils and assume the ballast was needed as most were point systems.

 

The Linkage moves very easily and freely, no binding at all. To be honest it acts like I've got a big lumpy cam and too much fuel, with not enough vacuum. I just got done checking for vacuum leaks and all is good. Its possible the cam is fatter than stock, since the internals are all unknown. I got the motor from datsunaholic, and he got it from someone else.

 

I guess I'm lucky to have it even running since the old points dizzy was F'ed up

 

Keep in mind that everything worked flawlessly with the old L16. I think the truck is mad that I took out her old motor! laugh.gif

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The Linkage moves very easily and freely.

What I mean is the nut holding the stock linkage to the carb. the main likage cam move freely. but for soem reason when I overtinghten that nut on to the carb that holds it on it would bog out just above idle. So I said fuck it and put it on very loose the nut just to hold enough then it was fine. Some people or even me have tighten the nut not reallly know that your bending the butterfly closed thus putting alot of torq on there,maybe bending that trottleplate.

 

Lumpy cam could mean its a electric choke staying on longer than needed or not adjusted correctly.

 

I dont know if you have manual or electric choke.

If electric choke you better find a wire to put on there otherwise once the motor warms up the choke will still be ON thus making a smelly and overrich condition.

Ihave a hard time adjusting them myself and I just loosen the 2 or 3 screws and turn it till the choke plate is full open and just say hell with it and give it a few pumps in the morning and call it good.

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The Linkage moves very easily and freely.

What I mean is the nut holding the stock linkage to the carb. the main likage cam move freely. but for soem reason when I overtinghten that nut on to the carb that holds it on it would bog out just above idle. So I said fuck it and put it on very loose the nut just to hold enough then it was fine. Some people or even me have tighten the nut not reallly know that your bending the butterfly closed thus putting alot of torq on there,maybe bending that trottleplate.

 

Lumpoy cam could mean its a eleltric choke staying on langer than needed or not adjusted correctly.

 

I dont know if you have manual or electric choke.

If electric choke you better find a wire to put on there otherwise once the motor warms up the choke will still be on thus making a smelly and overrich condition.

Ihave a hard time adjusting them myself and I just loosen the 2 or 3 screws and turn it till the choke plate is full open and just say hell with it and give it a few pumps in the morning and call it good.

 

 

The carb opens easily, AND snaps shut. I used a spring washer and once it flattened I stop turning. I could rev it with my pinky toe. biggrin.gif

 

No choke on this carb. Long story, but I get it fire up easily without it.

 

I still think its either the hei or the coil. We shall see. I will try to hunt down an electronic dizzy coil at the pull a part.

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No choke on this carb. Long story, but I get it fire up easily without it.

 

 

so there is no plate or is wired open all the time? If so then its not the choke.

 

if you have time just loose that hex up a 1/4 tun on back of carb and see. those usually have a tab hold down so the hex dont turn.

 

Point dizzys will usually give a bad stumble and backfireing if the shaft bushing has wear. it will make the points open when you dont want to.(side to side wiggle, or bad condensor) I worn shaft on elecctric dizzys is usually on the higher rpms youll see proplems. This recenly happen to my 521. Didnt think nothing of it tilll a raced a old man with a chevy Luv and he spanked me. The i swapped out the dizz and was a whole new truck again. But idle it was fine!

 

if your coil is not hot to the touch it just might be fine

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Choke plate is there but the choke linkage is missing. Got it that way.

 

The points dizzy was doing exactly that. The El dizzy is reman'd and it is solid all the way through, tight but spins freely.

 

Coil is not getting hot, and I am running the ballast. Which I've read can cause issues, just seems weird that its only off idle and not above that or at idle though.

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If you drive the car at higher rpms is it OK? if yoes then I say the coil is fine.

 

off idle to me is more carb related.

 

what is your timming set to by chance? try 10 to 14 deg and see if that helps.another thing make sure the vacuem adv is from the carb and not anywhere on the intake manifold.

 

 

Yes, once it gets past the stumble, it revs up and sounds GREAT.

 

Timing is about 10deg.

 

Vac advance is connected to the port coming off the base of the carb. I have an early L16 intake manifold, and no emissions crap other than the crank case vent.

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that is correct.

try disconneting the vacuum adv and turn the dizzy up to 12 or a litlle more run that see what happens.

 

anther thing is when you have the aircleaner off these the carb shoot gas in the main barrel.? assume yes mayeb the acell pump isnt working fully but I have had this proplem. Only once the acell pump bar got stuck in the IN mode and would not realse. Thus having no accell pump. I WD40 it and has been fine since.

 

 

remember base of the carb not at the base of the carb manifold on the drivers side port by the PCV . But I think you have this correct already. for the vaccum adv.

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CONCLUSION!

 

Pumpkin Dave came by and we went back over everything that I already checked, turns out I did a pretty good job. Last thing we tried was swapping in his El coil and VROOM! Purring like a datsun.

 

So to anyone considering an HEI swap, USE A EI COIL! Or you will hate yourself.

 

OH, also found some goofy ass wiring, which made it run some times and not others, it wasnt doing it yesterday, but it was the day before that. Someone wired in am ampmeter in line with the fuse box power wire, I removed the meter, and nevr would have thought the idiot would have wired THAT way. Oh well, never be suprised by what a PO will do. Now I gotta rewire most of the charging system. As a side note, fixing this crap also fixed my starter! No big deal.

 

THANKS SO MUCH PUMKIN!

 

Now to find a coil. PAP here I come!

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