Should I replace my Clutch?

[Nicholas7620]

Howdy DatzenMike, GGZilla everyone :thumbup:

 

I was trying to slowly drive my 76 B210 up my car ramps on my drive way. I was halfway up the ramp increasing the RPMs and had let the clutch all the way out and smoke started coming out from under the engine. :blink: It smelled but not that bad :P .

 

I stepped down on the gas pedal and the B210 would not finish going up the car ramps. I got scared and let off the gas and let the B210 roll down the drive way. I waited until the smoke cleared. :o

 

I tried again. This time I took a little run at the car ramps and made it to the top of the ramps and the smoking occurred again but not as much and I didn't have to let the clutch out all the way. You could smell burned clutch in the air. :(

 

My mechanic buddy highly recommends I replace my clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced. Evidently a smoking clutch is very bad and a sign of imminent clutch failure. I want to take a trip over the mountains on the way to Missourri and back to Cali again and not have my clutch go out. :)

 

I have an Exedy clutch kit, clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and alignment tool in my inventory of spare parts. I'm willing to take on the challenge of replacing a clutch, resurfacing my flywheel but only if highly recommended and confirmed.

 

I don't want to have my clutch go out in the mountains of Colorado and be stranded, wishing I had replaced my clutch and then having to pay for a clutch kit I already have and paying someone else to do it when I could have replaced the clutch myself. :(

 

What do you think? Is my clutch going out? :rolleyes:

 

I'll post PICs tomorrow AM.

 

Best,

[izzo]

Your flywheel probably suffered big time man, either heat will discolor it and f' it up, or the rivets could have dug in and made grooves in the flywheel. Or, you could get lucky and nothing happened. Its time for a new clutch man :D check out that flywheel and see if it can be turned, should be anyways when replacing a clutch but you can usually get away without doing it.

[I'm BLUE]

^^^ Me thinks he wants datzenmike/GGzilla advice ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Ima let <--- them finish !!! :lol:

 

Do the clutch kit !!! MAKE SURE TO INSTALL A PILOT BUSHING !

 

 

^ H2theizzo is 100% correct + in addition check the condition of your

 

(1) throw-out bearing

(2) Front trans seal

(3) Rear Main Bearing Seal ( Rear Main )

 

 

A very good time to check/replace ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, there are times when the rear-main seal will leak soo much oil on the clutch ,,, it can ruin them !!!

[izzo]

^^^ Me thinks he wants datzenmike/GGzilla advice ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Ima let <--- them finish !!! :lol:

 

Do the clutch kit !!! MAKE SURE TO INSTALL A PILOT BUSHING !

 

 

^ H2theizzo is 100% correct + in addition check the condition of your

 

(1) throw-out bearing

(2) Front trans seal

(3) Rear Main Bearing Seal ( Rear Main )

 

 

A very good time to check/replace ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, there are times when the rear-main seal will leak soo much oil on the clutch ,,, it can ruin them !!!

 

 

^^^^ +1

 

I had an 84 jetta 2door. Had the shop put in a new clutch, drove it for 3 days and the rear main leaked. Killed my new clutch, along with the flywheel from it heating up and dis tempering it (or whatever its called)

[I'm BLUE]

^^^^ +1

 

I had an 84 jetta 2door. Had the shop put in a new clutch, drove it for 3 days and the rear main leaked. Killed my new clutch, along with the flywheel from it heating up and dis tempering it (or whatever its called)

 

ahhhhhhhhhhhh that sucks :( ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I just pulled apart a spare motor and trans a few months ago ( rebuilt the engine ),,, saw all the oil the rear main was leaking on the clutch ( good light/medium coat of it :blink: all over the clutch ) ,,,, previous owner complained 2 clutches in like 15,000 miles or something like that ? :o

 

I was like yes !!! I found da problem ,,,, will I fix it though ? :lol: ;)

[hang_510]

highly recommended and confirmed.

 

[I'm BLUE]

^^^ :thumbup:

[Nicholas7620]

Thanks for the answers, :thumbup: I will replace the clutch. I'm still driving around on the same clutch. I was thinking the BEE had healed itself. I'm thinking I might as well replace the U joints, replace seals? :rolleyes: Change tranny oil with GL 4, "safe for yellow metal, nonferrous" and GL5 for rear end. 90 Weight or better.

[datzenmike]

I was trying to slowly drive my 76 B210 up my car ramps on my drive way. I was halfway up the ramp increasing the RPMs and had let the clutch all the way out and smoke started coming out from under the engine. :blink: It smelled but not that bad :P .

 

I stepped down on the gas pedal and the B210 would not finish going up the car ramps. I got scared and let off the gas and let the B210 roll down the drive way. I waited until the smoke cleared. :o

 

 

 

If the clutch was fully out and the car wouldn't climb the ramps then it was slipping. These cars are very light and a slipping clutch isn't so bad on level ground. Climbing steep hills is going to be a problem so yeah I'd change before going.

 

The pilot bearing is likely fine but are only $5 and super easy to change. Definitely change the release bearing and don't forget to pack with grease as I believe they are sole dry. Add a dab of grease to the clutch arm pivot ball. If you remove tranny to do this, replace the $5 rear seal the drive shaft slips into.

 

While the motor and tranny are separated inspect for oily wetness. If dry you are likely fine. If flywheel surface is mirror smooth rough it up with 220 grit sand paper. If gouged or a rippled surface have milled down.

[Nicholas7620]

I was carefully driving my 76 B210 up my red car ramps when the clutch started to smoke. I had to take a little run at the ramps to finally get my Bee up the ramps.

Clutch smoked again. :o

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the following Clutch kit, I purchased off ebay several years ago because it was going for $30. I purchased in case I would need a clutch in the future.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I researched the Clutch at Import Replacement Parts, and got two part numbers, 06018 and 06001.

 

They were both nearly identical except for Disc Diameter and Spline Diameter. I have the 06001 Clutch Kit, the Disc Diameter is 184mm or 7 1/4 inches and the Spline Diameter is 13/16 inch.

 

The other kit #06018 (which I don't have) is 180mm (7 1/8 inches) and the Spline Diameter is 1 inch. :o

 

What is the effect of the diff's in Spline Diameter and Diff's in Disc Diameter?

 

I want to make sure I have the right part, both numbers are for the 76 B210 4 speed.

 

Is a larger Spline diameter with smaller Clutch Disc better than a larger Clutch Disc with smaller Spline Diameter? :unsure:

[ggzilla]

There are two B210 clutches:

 

4-speed

* SIZE OD: 7 1/8 inch (180 mm)

* shaft Size: 13/16

* shaft TEETH: 18

 

5-speed

* shaft TEETH: 24

 

The B210 5-speed is the 63-series type. 63s were more normally fitted to L-series cars. This B210 clutch disc is the L14 part number. It is the smallest L-series clutch (7-1/8" diameter) which fits the small A-series flywheel.

[ggzilla]

The 4-speed has a certain size shaft. So two different size clutch input spline diameters won't fit! Only the clutch disk which fits the 4-speed shaft will work. The other one will not. There was only one 4-speed used on B210 (FS4W56L).

[Nicholas7620]

The 4-speed has a certain size shaft. So two different size clutch input spline diameters won't fit! Only the clutch disk which fits the 4-speed shaft will work. The other one will not. There was only one 4-speed used on B210 (FS4W56L).

I'm hoping I have the right clutch. I checked Rock Auto and all their 4speed clutches list a 13/16ths spline size for the 76 B210. I'll find out whether my replacement clutch is the right size, when I remove the old one, which I can't do until after 10/10/10. In the meantime I'm driving around on the old smoky clutch. It's only the second clutch that has ever been in the BEE. :P

[Nicholas7620]

I don't have a front transmission seal or a rear transmission seal in my collection of spare parts. I'm wondering if this Rock Auto page describes the front transmission seal. :rolleyes:

 

 

 

1976 NISSAN B210 1.4L 1393cc 85cid L4 2BBL (H) [A14] OHV : Transmission-Manual : Input Shaft Seal Wiki Price

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0522789

Standard trans.; 4 speed trans.

 

$2.81

Add to Cart

TIMKEN Part # 1981

4 speed trans.; R4W71A; Front

 

$5.52

Add to Cart

NATIONAL Part # 1981 Oil Seal; Nitrile Seal, Shaft Size=1.181", Housing Bore=1.772, Outer Diameter=1.781, Width=0.315in

Aichi FS5W60L 5 Spd. Manual Transmission

Aichi F4W60 4 Spd. Manual Transmission

 

$7.79

Add to Cart

 

 

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

Related Parts

 

1976 NISSAN B210 1.4L 1393cc 85cid L4 2BBL (H) [A14] OHV : Transmission-Manual : Output Shaft Seal Wiki Price

NATIONAL Part # 2016 Oil Seal; Nitrile Seal, Counter-Clockwise-Spiral Design, Shaft Size=1.181", Housing Bore=1.772, Outer Diameter=1.78, Flange Outer Diameter=2.441", Width=0.591in

Aichi FS5W60L 5 Spd. Manual Transmission

Aichi F4W60 4 Spd. Manual Transmission

 

* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

 

I guess this is the rear transmission seal. :rolleyes:

 

 

I definitely have more homework to do. :P :D

[Nicholas7620]

I ordered an input shaft seal and an output shaft seal from rock auto, took the 5% discount 39830852985109 this code is good to 11/28/2010. The discount code is also posted in the Rock Auto Sticky Thread.

 

Thanks all. :D

 

Edit: The Tranny seals are on the way. I should receive them on 10/12/10. I'm looking forward to replacing the clutch. :D