Dattosan Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 i tried finding a manual for my 71 but i think it is almost impossible to find it any car parts store i havent tried online so i got the intake system and the headers off by the way now i just need to unbolt the head but i need to know the proper sequence on how to remove the bolts does anyone have info on what thoes specs are. do i have to remove alternator? do i have to remove the waterpump? anyparticular way i have to remove the camchaft cam gear timingbelt? Quote Link to comment
510_boyz Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 http://www.guba.com/...own-and-Rebuild ......try this it helped me Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 no bro, take off the valve cover and undo the 10mm allend head bolts, unbolt the cam sprocket, block timing chain with wood or tool and pull that sucker off!!! thats it!! well besides everything thats attached like the water housing (just uno the top hose) and all oft he other common sense stuff like plug wires Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 timing belt? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 break all the bolts loose first at the cam then at crank .then line motor up to TDC. my vid is more when doing a front cover also. You can get away using a tool to push the tensioner in. Im hoping soemone could post a vid of them doing that one day. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 now i just need to unbolt the head but i need to know the proper sequence on how to remove the bolts does anyone have info on what thoes specs are. do i have to remove alternator? do i have to remove the waterpump? anyparticular way i have to remove the camchaft cam gear timingbelt? Manuals are all over eBay. Head Bolt removal- start from the outside, work in a criss-cross pattern to the middle. Order isn't THAT important, the pattern is what you want. Install is from the middle-out. But don't forget the 2 small bolts holding the head to the timing cover- if there's grease you won't see them, and you can easily destroy the timing cover if you forget them. Alternator: No. Water pump: No. You don't have to remove anything not directly attached to the head. There's no timing belt. It's a chain. And you MUST wedge the chain, or the chain will go slack, overextend the tensioner (which you cannot access from above) and fall off the lower sprocket. You MUST mark the timing chain and sprocket as to how it came off because it has to go back on exactly the same way. If you don't wedge the chain, and the above happens, then yes you have to take off the alternator, water pump, crank pulley, oil pump, etc to take off the timing cover to reset the chain and tensioner. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 Another thing. What are the symtoms 1st. You see wter comming out from soemwhere? Comming out of exhaust? remeber the l16 usues a water passage in the head from the intake so if loose intake to head and esp the lower intake exhaust bolt it coul suck water in to the intake making it look like a head gasket . Or you run it out of water that way till it over heats. Tells us exactly whats going on MOFO Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 go to datsun510.com sign up and go to on line manuals Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 If you want a physical copy, there are some on ebay for the haynes manuals. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-69-70-73-Datsun-510-Haynes-Service-Repair-Manual-New-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ110571101375QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature Quote Link to comment
Dattosan Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Another thing. What are the symtoms 1st. You see wter comming out from soemwhere? Comming out of exhaust? remeber the l16 usues a water passage in the head from the intake so if loose intake to head and esp the lower intake exhaust bolt it coul suck water in to the intake making it look like a head gasket . Or you run it out of water that way till it over heats. Tells us exactly whats going on MOFO i still dont know what caused the headgasket to blow i doubt its failure of the cooling system im just thinking its the power of the motor and how it was driven but yeah water mixed in with the oil i poped off the valve cocver and it looked like gravey hahah and some red watermarks but after i replace the gasket i am going to check the water pump the thermostat and start running coolant instead of water =) and install a resivoir becuase it doesnt have one for the radiator Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 This is the L20B 0.040 over with flattops that turned out to be an L16. So did you buy it with a blown gasket or did you drive it for twenty minutes and it blew (which is the same thing) or did you drive it around for days and everything is fine and suddenly it blew??? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Ok Now that helps. water in oil Water in the oil could come from the water pump area. Take the radiator out and take the water pump off. if it looks like a bunch of Termite holes then there is a high possiblity of a tiny hole in the front cover. If you can post a photo I can tell you if timming cover is suspect.Once the water pressureizes up the water goes behind the front cover right in to the oil pan PS motor with aluminum housing need antifreeze mixture. It helpd prevent cavitation and bubles banging on the front cover. Mine went bad in 40k cause I kept running old anti freeze. it was green on the chimicals where wore out!!!!!! So dont run only water Quote Link to comment
Dattosan Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 This is the L20B 0.040 over with flattops that turned out to be an L16. So did you buy it with a blown gasket or did you drive it for twenty minutes and it blew (which is the same thing) or did you drive it around for days and everything is fine and suddenly it blew??? yeah its an L16 maybe bored to match l18 and i was told it has closed chamber head and flap tops,not shure still havent proven it my self i havent removed the head... but when i purshased the car it had a new gasket then after driving it around for a wile is when the car started showing symptoms of a blown headgasket like white smoke over heating constantly checking water level... maybe i was to rough =0 it was the longest ive driven my dream car Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Only way you are too rough is if you let the water level go down. If the gasket was replaced then it blew before and the owner didn't check to see if the head is warped. I've done this, lasted a week or two and blew again. When you bought it did you look at the oil on the dip stick? I'm hoping the oil wasn't contaminated from the previous blown gasket. Quote Link to comment
Dattosan Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 haha im starting to like ratsun haha thanks guys aprecciate the help ps i love my datsun even thoe ive had the thing sitting around =0 Only way you are too rough is if you let the water level go down. If the gasket was replaced then it blew before and the owner didn't check to see if the head is warped. I've done this, lasted a week or two and blew again. When you bought it did you look at the oil on the dip stick? I'm hoping the oil wasn't contaminated from the previous blown gasket. you know what bro thanks for the help btw,,, when i bought the car i took it to a shop so they could get it running for me and they did a tune up and changed the gaskets but now im really thinking that maybe since i fisrt started driving it for a wile i let the water level go down =( and maybe it over heated and thats what caused it to blow?? =/ maybe? but after it started to smoke i was constantly filling the radiator with water because i had to drive it home and it ran perfectly good strong actually.. so im really hoping there wasnt no serious damage i cant wait to get her up and running again! you know what bro thanks for the help btw,,, when i bought the car i took it to a shop so they could get it running for me and they did a tune up and changed the gaskets but now im really thinking that maybe since i fisrt started driving it for a wile i let the water level go down =( and maybe it over heated and thats what caused it to blow?? =/ maybe? but after it started to smoke i was constantly filling the radiator with water because i had to drive it home and it ran perfectly good strong actually.. so im really hoping there wasnt no serious damage i cant wait to get her up and running again! and another thing even when they did an oil change when i would check the oil it looked a bit odd to me like it was contaminated almost as if it was watery like dark grey.. i did notice that when the car was running if it helps i dont have stock carbs i have cu's Ok Now that helps. water in oil Water in the oil could come from the water pump area. Take the radiator out and take the water pump off. if it looks like a bunch of Termite holes then there is a high possiblity of a tiny hole in the front cover. If you can post a photo I can tell you if timming cover is suspect.Once the water pressureizes up the water goes behind the front cover right in to the oil pan PS motor with aluminum housing need antifreeze mixture. It helpd prevent cavitation and bubles banging on the front cover. Mine went bad in 40k cause I kept running old anti freeze. it was green on the chimicals where wore out!!!!!! So dont run only water you know wat at first when u told me about the intake sytem possibly being loose.. that causes it to mix wit hthe oil?? im starting to take thatinto consideration because when the car was up and running the oil always looked a bit odd to me... i am running cu carbs from a 240z i beleive? i want webbers =) If you want a physical copy, there are some on ebay for the haynes manuals. http://cgi.ebay.com/...lsQ5fLiterature thanks for the link bro btw are thoes re finished original enkei datsun wheels? cuz they look like mines =) u seen my car ? wat u think? haha Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 thanks for the link bro btw are thoes re finished original enkei datsun wheels? cuz they look like mines =) u seen my car ? wat u think? haha NP. They are Enkei stamped, so I assume they are original. The previous owner polished two of them, I'm going to do the others once I get the stuff for it. Yeah yours looks pretty sweet, though they are grey. Quote Link to comment
Dattosan Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 timing belt? oh im sorry i said timing belt haha this is not a honda ladys and gentlemen its a 510 Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 ok so if it has flat tops and a peanut head i would buy some 280zx turbo head bolts Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 take off water pump.look behined water pump so if bad Loose inttake will not cuase water in the oil Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 .....Loose inttake will not cuase water in the oil I've had at least three blown h/g, two were warped head. In all three, water in oil was not a problem, as there is no way for water to get into oil pan. If you drove it a long long time with a bad gasket water vapor can squease past rings and collect over time. But I think this is a bit of a stretch. There is an oil gallery between block and head but oil pressure would prevent water getting in only oil out. Never seen a gasket fail near the oil hole, nearly impossible. Quote Link to comment
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