Z22 Crankshaft Pulley

[rudolfgreen]

Do guys have a preferred method for pulling off the crankshaft pulley? Thanks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

after I remove the bolt just tap on back side with rubber mallet and should come off.

 

how you get the bolt off?

Cam up the cam sprocket of get a wrench to jam up the cam so you can get a breaker bar to turn that fucker loose

 

 

olddatsun.com ck it out lot of infor

 

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223/Hainz-Datsun-L-Series-Engine-01-Timing-Tare-down-and-Rebuild

[hang_510]

pull it straight off, lotsa wigglin

 

how you get the bolt off?

starter method

[banzai510(hainz)]

starter method???????

tell me about this one.

 

should I hold the breaker bar in my hand? and hold it?

[datzenmike]

I tap against the back of the pulley with the socket used to remove the nut. Has never failed to remove them.

[hang_510]

should I hold the breaker bar in my hand? and hold it?

ONLY if someone has a camera while doing it!

 

 

:no:

set the breaker bar against the frame rail and a quick crank.

1, maybe 2, tries should loosen it.

[rudolfgreen]

SOLID advice all around,and MUCH appreciated. :thumbup:

[datsunaholic]

 

set the breaker bar against the frame rail and a quick crank.

1, maybe 2, tries should loosen it.

 

 

Learned that method accidentally. Had been barring the engine over by hand to set the valves, then when I was done started it up. Had forgotten to take the breaker bar off the crank pulley bolt, and had to retrieve the crank pulley from the other side of the yard, the breaker bar from the gravel side yard, and the bolt from the street.

 

To add insult to injury, I did it again a few years later on a different vehicle. Considered painting the breaker bar day-glo yellow after that.

 

But it does work...

[hang_510]

Had forgotten to take the breaker bar off the crank pulley bolt

 

To add insult to injury, I did it again

i added this tip to mklotz valve adjustment thread... i did it and my son thought i blew up the new motor.

luckily it just fell off to the ground.

 

 

i now use a 'leash' so i dont close the hood... again :rofl:

[rudolfgreen]

after I remove the bolt just tap on back side with rubber mallet and should come off.

 

how you get the bolt off?

Cam up the cam sprocket of get a wrench to jam up the cam so you can get a breaker bar to turn that fucker loose

 

 

olddatsun.com ck it out lot of infor

 

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223/Hainz-Datsun-L-Series-Engine-01-Timing-Tare-down-and-Rebuild

 

Outstanding, great work.

 

You guys are hilarious btw, nice forum.

[Master-O-Turbonics]

starter method

 

Wouldn't really recommend that except for a last resort. Especially on an L6... don't want to break your crank. lol

[rudolfgreen]

Ok.. front cover is off. crankshaft it pointing where it should (key@12:00 and dimple@3:00).. but on the camshaft, front lobe is @11:00, and 2nd lobe@1:00? And additionally, the camshaft sprocket guide pin is @6:00 (180deg out). She was running well before the tear down (minus the tensioner failure).. any ideas on the easy resolution here? Am I an idiot and just 180deg out?

[banzai510(hainz)]

is this a L series head on this Z22 block?

 

If it is Im thnking you didnt turn the motor on compression stroke when you tore it apart.watch my vid again

[rudolfgreen]

is this a L series head on this Z22 block?

 

If it is Im thnking you didnt turn the motor on compression stroke when you tore it apart.watch my vid again

 

Your vid was awesome.. and did check it again, but that is a L20 cam? This is an 81 (Z22S 2187cc) that I believe to be stock because it was a old navy dude single owner (my ladys rig, I am a noob to the Datsun). The head has eight spark plugs which is the L-head? It wasnt quite timed right from the start because it would 'diesel' sometimes.. and in the same turn had great power 3-4k (advanced?). Where should the cam lobes line up at TDC? Many thanks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont know the Z series head. I have to base this on what you say.

Datzenmike/Datsunaholic can help you more on the Z series head. as I dont know the intake /exhaust locations but when you were dialing the crank up to Zero the intake valve should have been closing and then you would stop the crank @ ZERO. then look to see where your cam marks are at. Using provided factory marks.

 

I always thought the Z series and L series use the same cam sprocket. Im do not know if the mark or dowel is straight up on a Z series as it nears TDC(Zero)

 

Sorry I cant be more of help. I just dont know the Z series.

[rudolfgreen]

Right on.. hopefully they will have a minute to chime in.. thanks for all of your guru help.

[datzenmike]

Set the crank to TDC on compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft, an aligning the timing notch on the rearmost pulley edge, with the saw tooth timing scale (just behind it) on the right side of the engine down by the alternator. This is pretty much the same as the L series motors. Be sure that both cam lobes are pointing downward at about 8 and 4 o'clock as viewed from the front. If not you are 180 out so turn crank one complete turn and try again. Bring to TDC by rotating in a clockwise direction, stopping at TDC. If you over shoot, back up well before TDC and try again, as many times as needed to get right. The crank is now set at TDC and you are ready to time the cam.

 

Look through the top hole in the camshaft sprocket, (use a bright flashlight) and down at the back side of it. You will see either a VEE or U shaped notch. Look directly behind and slightly above it on the front cam tower. There you should see a very faint vertical casting ridge.

 

This sprocket has a U shape notch and behind it (very faintly) is the vertical casting mark.

 

 

Here's what you are looking for at the end of the screw driver:

 

 

The notch, just like in the L series, should be on the mark or just to the right of it like in the top picture. If not the sprocket will have to be removed and rotated. One hole counter-clockwise will effectively move the notch about one width to the right... in other words if you are on the #2 hole, moving to the #3 hole will move the notch to the right.

 

If it is way, way out it may be off a tooth or so. You will have to remove the chain, place the sprocket on the #2 setting (bolt finger tight) and rotate the cam up until the notch is roughly at the top. Remove sprocket and slip chain on the closest link that will allow it on the cam dowel. Re-set crank to TDC and check the notch/casting mark as in the top picture. Adjust as necessary.

 

 

.

[rudolfgreen]

Awesome mike..thanks. My confusion belied in the fact I thought the lobes should have been pointing upwards at TDC. You guys rule. :thumbup:

[datzenmike]

... and that's the difference, well one difference with the Z series. The rockers ride against the top surface of the cam in the Z and under the cam on the L series. You'll get it going.

[sinner720st]

when i put a new timing set on my Z24 the chain had two teeth that were silver and the rest were black, #1 @ TDC, cam sprocket in #2 position the two teeth will sit on thier mark. one mark is on the crank sprocket and one on the cam sprocket.