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Man It is so close. Im being honest I have never really messed with a carburator very much I had them on jetskis back in the day and those ski carbs scared me so many diaphragms. I wish I knew the exact specs on the motor like cam lift and durration and compression and valve size and spring strength and could just be like this is what I have what do I need to do. If this wasnt my daily driver and I didnt have to run a tattoo shop this would all be more fun for sure. but i know It will be worth it no car projects ever go smooth for me

 

:edit: I know with this cam life definately isnt going to be as smooth very little bottom end and probably a clutch every year or 2 Im stoked I just get impatient since its my daily driver

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180?

probably not anymore. :mellow: that apes ass is sore.

 

 

im thinking i will have about 140 at the wheels once ive dialed the carbs in (LZ22)

 

Looks like an after market installed spray bar for the valve train to me.

correct.

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damn!! say hello to 10mpg lol

 

I would think it should do ok Milage if its tuned right and he keeps his foot out of it (ya right :cool: :) ) I got an average of about 25 +/- in my fj wagon with 44mm Mikunis and 11:1 compression rollin down the freeway no problem

 

180?

probably not anymore. :mellow: that apes ass is sore.

 

 

im thinking i will have about 140 at the wheels once ive dialed the carbs in (LZ22)

 

 

correct.

 

Brian I think you should be in that area (140WHP) no problem depending on all thats done??? My girlfriend Lisas 510 with the LZ22 made 155whp and 151wtq and its drivable on the street...

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the orange is :cool:

 

 

Lisas 510 with the LZ22 made 155whp and 151wtq and its drivable on the street...

i stayed mild on the cam for street use 480, but have a 510 that was on the LZ24 if it turns out to be inadequate.

 

i was optimistic about 150 when i started.

dyno plan in the near future, for proof.

 

it was built for the g00n!

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Ok so he put the power valve back in one of the holley 350s since were gonna be on the street and re jetted it and is changing between accelerator pump cams and power valve combinations and now the thing is running dope and im getting 40-50 psi oil pressure he said they had done something to the oil pump just gotta run the tach and temp gauges and I should be golden, oh and I need to open up the exhaust for sure

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Ok so he put the power valve back in one of the holley 350s since were gonna be on the street and re jetted it and is changing between accelerator pump cams and power valve combinations and now the thing is running dope and im getting 40-50 psi oil pressure he said they had done something to the oil pump just gotta run the tach and temp gauges and I should be golden, oh and I need to open up the exhaust for sure

 

Glad to here :D I ordered the power valve spring quick change kit for mine yesterday ( Mine is correct power valve spring currently , since vacuum is correct but experimentation is a must :unsure: :lol: ) The accelerator pump cam I using the "black one" found here ---> http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-12/10002/-1?parentProductId=743669 <--- ..... for a longer more duration spray over the throttle opening degree's ... for a cruising daily driver :cool:. My oil pressure improved ( slightly ) with getting her fine tuned as well ;)

 

Although my brothers mustang has a double pumper kit , with both sides with green cam equilavents on his demon 650cfm for his mustang.

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So i was wondering my motor is running rad on like 1/3 throttle where or who do you go to to have someone set your carb up with all the goodies so It runs bitching through the whole thing is that something they do at a dyno tune ? or do I go to a hotrod shop ? If it was a stock setup it would be easy to make cruise but i dont really know anything about carbs. The mechanic cat said once we do a bit more tuning It will be more streetable but i definately have to play with the throttle a bit so i dont bog It down using about 1/3 at most and It is already a lot faster than my old motor. And we have the stock exhaust scabbed in some people said that getting some exhaust flow will clean up a bit of the problems. and we dont have an air cleaner on yet does that affect it much? Man im a retard when it comes to carbs

 

 

 

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So i was wondering my motor is running rad on like 1/3 throttle where or who do you go to to have someone set your carb up with all the goodies so It runs bitching through the whole thing is that something they do at a dyno tune ? or do I go to a hotrod shop ? If it was a stock setup it would be easy to make cruise but i dont really know anything about carbs. The mechanic cat said once we do a bit more tuning It will be more streetable but i definately have to play with the throttle a bit so i dont bog It down using about 1/3 at most and It is already a lot faster than my old motor. And we have the stock exhaust scabbed in some people said that getting some exhaust flow will clean up a bit of the problems. and we dont have an air cleaner on yet does that affect it much? Man im a retard when it comes to carbs

 

Is it a model # 4160 Holley Carb

 

Well I guess we are both retarded then lolz :lol: I honestly don't know as I have had little experience with radical cams + carb tuning ( except my brothers mustang motor , geeeeeeeessseee good luck :lol: ).

 

Honestly if your mechanic guy doesn't know how to get it past 1/3 maybe just a bit more , then it is time to take it to someone that does ( good thing he is honest about it though :D )

 

Exhaust flow is important , but just tuning my Z motor on 2.5" exhaust pipe ( street motor/very mild cam ) the exhaust is more than enough with a 2.8 liter 6 cylinder engine , and you have plenty right --- like 3" plus in my book is not going to be your issue if it is all 3" , welded properly , and not clogged ? ( check your muffler flow lately :lol: and you want some back pressure so there is such as thing as too big of a pipe like 4" I would consider too big..... but maybe I could be wrong ? IDK )

 

As far as re-jetting/re-calibrating jets/combination jets , I have a carb guy I go to that is very patient , and explains what he is doing , but gets very pissed if you go/do anything other than what he asks/recommends. The dude is a professional , all he does is carbs/injection systems ( some ) for a living. yours might require some that fancy equipment or test it yourself in the off hours ( This will take a bit of time and even more patience ) since you will have to re-tune/ re-set the carb with each set of undersize/oversized jets that go into the carb itself ( you can get quick but it is time consuming ) This means you might be changing the ignition timing , idle mechanical set , idle circuit tuning , accelerator pump cam ,

 

Do you have a specification sheet of what is in there now ? Have you been keeping records of what has been tried out in combinations there of ? Holley 4160 calls for I believe Fuel Pressure to be ---> (Minimum---5.5 to Maximum 7psi fuel pressure) I use a Holley Regulator Brand , it works since the other ones were "dime a dozen" shit :lol:

 

My guess is your describing you will need a more aggressive accelerator pump cam to keep up with what your radical camshaft was designed for ( higher RPM's ) , or re-jetting , BUT ----> i have no idea what jets have or have not been done in addition to though in your carb. Remember to put plenty of Anti-Seize on your NGK brand Spark plugs as those will be coming out and going in periodcally ( It is easy to foul a set out doing what you are describing as you already know ;) )

 

Either way man , all in all your little L20 with a 390cfm Holley 4bbl is a huge inspiration to me :D CHEERS MATE !!! You might need to take it to a shop if you don't feel confident :cool: Look for some dyno simulation programs on the net , there might be one for what your talking about for carbs ? :)

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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh shiz I double posted :lol: :angry:

 

(1)Did your mechanic put "a secondary power valve back in" or did he put a new and correctly measured power valve spring in there ? ( makes a huge difference :blink: )

 

(2) Running Premium Gas Only ? :)

 

Sorry man , not trying to sound condescending --- just like to help/learn ;) :D

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Not condescending at all super rad questions and I am stoked for the help. What I know tonight is that its a 350 holley with no choke. my exhaust size is stock like 1.5 inch and stock muffler and we just scabbed it in off the collector for now so its pretty small exhaust. Im running 93 in it If i understand it right I need the right: Jetting. Settings. accelerator pump cam, and power valve. this is probably more than I can understand, my mechanic is just doing all this including getting me the motor for a little trade work and I gave him about 100 bucks for misc parts. So Im doing real well so far for sure. I wish some of you smart guys lived in the Boise are so you could give it a spin though.

 

Where do you work farmer Joe? I can swing by

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Not condescending at all super rad questions and I am stoked for the help. What I know tonight is that its a 350 holley with no choke. my exhaust size is stock like 1.5 inch and stock muffler and we just scabbed it in off the collector for now so its pretty small exhaust. Im running 93 in it If i understand it right I need the right: Jetting. Settings. accelerator pump cam, and power valve. this is probably more than I can understand, my mechanic is just doing all this including getting me the motor for a little trade work and I gave him about 100 bucks for misc parts. So Im doing real well so far for sure. I wish some of you smart guys lived in the Boise are so you could give it a spin though.

 

Where do you work farmer Joe? I can swing by

 

Yes ! thats a good start ^^^ Just remember the Accelerator Pump Cam Type , and The Power Valve Spring (Secondary Spring) Type all depends on the jetting , so once the jets are messed with , one must start the process over again , but fairly simple once you know what you are doing ;) :D

 

(1)--- Your definetly right about the exhaust ( I had thought you had 3" on there installed , so I apologize or I just assumed ) , I would consider bumping up to about 2.5" at least throughout ( but I am weak on exhaust flow theory , just know you will need it like you have been saying all along ! lolz ) Make sure your muffler flows free ;) 3" is about as big as I would want to go , even for a mild smallblock V-8.

 

(2)--- Junk the stock muffler , this is very restrictive and old , when you install the new exhaust make sure it does not bottle neck anywhere ;) ( no less diameter at all than what the pipe is to be throughout , if you have 2.5" than make the rest 2.5" )

 

(3)--- Your 620 thanks you for running 93 Octane :D

 

(4)--- Jetting ---- http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/36-181/10002/-1 Correct , you will need a record of what jets are in there , and what needs to be ( this is trial and error process for me ) Knowing what is in there will help increase re-sellability as well. You can buy these in sets as well if the kit is too much monies.

 

(5)--- Power Valve (Secondary Valve Spring) http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-13/10002/-1 ---- Yes , you are correct , you will need the correct Power Valve Spring ( Secondary Spring ) to begin with ( this determines at which point under-load with the correct vacuum is to opening your "Secondary" barrels on your 4bbl Holley carb will begin , the wrong one can/will wreak havoc on a carb set-up alone either opening too soon or too late ( run a lean or rich mixture under load ). Power Valve Spring Kit here. Just make sure it is positioned correctly on install ;)

 

(6)--- Accelerator Pump Cam Kit ---> http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-12/10002/-1 <----

 

(7)--- NGK Spark Plugs Only !!! Buy 1-2 sets if get fouled out easily trying to tune , will wreak havoc !!!

 

(8)--- Do a compression check before anything else , uneven cylinder compression or low compression and it will be hard to tune to nearly impossible to keep in tune ;)

 

(7)--- In my opinion , don't try to drill throttle plates or anything whacky like that ! lolz ---> that's reserved for those carburetors you will never use unless you figure it will work then you might try it ! :lol: ...... I might have done something like this a while ago :unsure: ;)

 

Ya , you are doing pretty damn good for $100 in parts + trade work ! swwwwwwwweeeeeeeeetttttttt ! Wish I could do the same :lol: sorry for the length , and good luck man :cool:

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(1)--- Your definetly right about the exhaust.

I would consider bumping up to about 2.5" at least throughout

 

(2)--- Junk the stock muffler , if you have 2.5" than make the rest 2.5" )

im running a 2.5 ID from a stock mani, reduced from 3" and not only felt an improvement,

my mileage went UP ~4mpg! :blink:

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So I actually got to do some work at the shop today and made a little money so im gonna get this exhaust restriction taken care of I was pretty broke but one shop said they would do me 2.5 dumped under the bed with a glasspack for 200 but since i made a few bucks I might spring for a muffler should Should i go flowmaster or just a generic turbo muffler? or is the glasspack cool? as soon as this is done i can start tuning the carb (Thanks for all the tuning info Im starting to feel more confident that this thing will be a runner)

 

 

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So I actually got to do some work at the shop today and made a little money so im gonna get this exhaust restriction taken care of I was pretty broke but one shop said they would do me 2.5 dumped under the bed with a glasspack for 200 but since i made a few bucks I might spring for a muffler should Should i go flowmaster or just a generic turbo muffler? or is the glasspack cool? as soon as this is done i can start tuning the carb (Thanks for all the tuning info Im starting to feel more confident that this thing will be a runner)

 

A generic free flow turbo type muffler will work just fine , I always fall in love with a flowmaster sound ! I wouldn't be afraid to do either as long as they are free flowing/not cheap packed crappy ones that fall apart after 2-3 years ! ;) I always get eyed when driving with "glasspacks" on any rig :unsure: :lol:" ( I don't know if they are legal in your area , but I believe they are illegal in mine :P )

 

2.5" throughout sounds like a good choice :D

 

Having info is always good :D ---> I just found out today that if your "full vacuum carb port" (with your vacuum gauge attached)..... is above 13lbs of vacuum the standard power valve will work in your tuning application and you don't have to screw with it , just move onto the next step( as a rule of thumb ) :)

 

It is cheaper and easier to buy the accelerator pump cam kit(about $23) , and swap them out in average 2-3 minutes a piece ( color coded for different discharge rates/durations ) , test drive the rig , and see if it eliminates the flat spot ( and location of it ) before paying $10-$20 per accelerator discharge nozzle ( which is the next step if the accelerator pump cams do not work or quite cut it ;) ) ---> Just keep in mind this is off idle tuning , and brief Harder/Hardest acceleration tuning areas that you will be focusing on IMHO when looking at the accelerator pump. Idle Circuits , Main Meter Circuit , Secondary Circuit , etc... all have their place.

 

Holley Recommends to tune or check your Secondary Spring resistance at WOT in a higher gear to see if it stumbles at all when you attempt each spring strength ( make sure your plugs are good before any of this though :D )

 

Above all else , make sure everything is clean clean clean ( when disconnecting lines no foreign debris ) use new fuel filters

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I would go for a flowtech raptor. You can get them in any size for the inlet/outlet for $20 at any parts store. For the hot motor your runnin it will keep it fairly quiet and wont hurt the performance. And trust me, you will hate a cherry bomb. Youve heard my truck havent ya? If you havent its loud as fuck and i regret putting the boom tube on it everyday i drive it. Do it right the first time and youll be doin yourself a favor. Oh and the fuzz will leave ya alone a little more too...

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you will hate a cherry bomb. its loud as fuck and i regret putting the boom tube on it everyday i drive it. Do it right the first time and youll be doin yourself a favor. Oh and the fuzz will leave ya alone a little more too...

 

+1 respectfully ( daily driver it gets old quick ) ---> you'll go deaf on road trips too :lol:

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your problem is fuel pressure regulator, its overfilling the float bowl. happens to people all the time. they swap some stuff out, and expect it to work. especially with electric pumps. youve worked on everything else with no luck. the exhaust wont make it do the symptoms youve described, itll just hurt top end performance. dial it near 6-7 psi, the try again, it may even need lower being its only a 350

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your problem is fuel pressure regulator, its overfilling the float bowl. happens to people all the time. they swap some stuff out, and expect it to work. especially with electric pumps. youve worked on everything else with no luck. the exhaust wont make it do the symptoms youve described, itll just hurt top end performance. dial it near 6-7 psi, the try again, it may even need lower being its only a 350

 

good advice and many people do have this probelm , I believe they said they had installed a fuel pressure regulator earlier/ I will confirm 5.5-7psi (minimum-maximum)is what Holley Recommends ;) :D . I personally wouldn't go lower , I tried 4psi on my 390cfm 4bbl 240z that is my Daily Driver , Dies at times sitting at the light (idle) :rolleyes: ---> pressure back up to 5.5-6psi , problem solved :lol:

 

As far as the exhaust size goes , I believe he has a radical cam + big carb and this engine is probably no regular L20B , but IDK

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