someone please enlighten me

[jesusno2]

ok so since i finally got my goon to run with the ka, ive moved on to my alternator that has not been working. well i took it to the auto parts place to have it tested. its working. When i have it on my car it does jack shit! It is a stock ka24e alt i have the 510 harness jumpered for the int reg alt. on the actuall alt plug I have the fat white wire looped back to the power lug on the alt and the small wire off the alt plug going to the red/white where the voltage reg was. my issue is that red/white that went to the voltage reg has no voltage when the key is on. why is that isnt that the feild wire?

[datzenmike]

I'm using the 80 amp KA alt in my 710.

 

I used this diagram for the '70 and up 510:

 

 

 

Removed the external regulator and popped all the spade connectors from it's connector and soldered and used heat shrink tubing to join the White/Red to the White/Black and the White to the Yellow and put them back in their place in the plug.

 

 

Now the empty regulator plug only has the jumpers in it. Plug it back onto the engine harness and you're done. Nice and neat.

 

 

I made this jumper to connect the KA alt into the two pin stock white plastic plug.

 

 

Last was a much heavier output cable with a lug on the end so it could be connected to the starter terminal which also has the positive battery cable on it.

 

 

All wires were soldered and heat shrink tubing used. The bottom two jumpers were also enclosed in split plastic wire harness protectors and wrapped with electrical tape.

 

.

[jesusno2]

I did the same shit mine does nothing. on my plug coming off the alt i have a fat white and the small yellow where is the small yellow supposed to go? i have it tied into the white/red where their jumpered.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Mike I like the way you did that.

also the T connector to the new KA plug. Thats the way I would do it.

[thisismatt]

I'm not saying you can't get by with the sense wire hooked up directly to the alternator output, but if that were how it's supposed to be don't you think it would come like that from the factory, or even internally wired? The point is to sense the voltage "in the system" so that the alternator can output higher current to account for parasitic resistance/voltage drop. Just sayin...

[datzenmike]

 

The two wire plug in the alt side should be marked L and S. The heavy white wire should go to the positive battery terminal and the S terminal. The other, L terminal, should go to the White/Red wire on the 510 that goes to the red charge light in the dash.

 

 

 

Mike I like the way you did that.

also the T connector to the new KA plug. Thats the way I would do it.

 

Thanks Hainz. I figures that if the alt went south I could just plug any IR alt back into the old plug.

.

[jesusno2]

Man this is weird i still have the stock 510 harness in my wagon so my original T plug wires are still their with the wires jumpered where the voltage reg was. one of the wires on the original T plug has battery voltage at all times! that cant be right? i have no voltage at the small white/red. im gonna have to find a diagram for the 510 wagon auto.

[banzai510(hainz)]

im gonna have to find a diagram for the 510 wagon auto.

 

 

 

WHY?????????????? would the cahrging system be different?

 

 

Just wire it as above drawing(if you already did) or find a a old alaternator put back to stock find reg alt with olf volt reg back in or try another IR alternator.

 

Did they "Load test" that alternator. Alot of alternator will test good 14volts with out a load. Than put a load on there and they just kill it.

 

where the old alt was is the ground wire still hooked up? the black wire?

[jesusno2]

Yea it has the ground still their and the T plug still one of the wires off the T plug has battery voltage with the key off all my wires where the stock VR was have no power

[jesusno2]

so i just got home and looked at my car the original T plug has a solid yellow and white with a black strip my solid yellow has power all the time the white/black as no power at all. my wires are looped just like in the diagram how in the hell does this trigger a feild current? if I hook my T plug my alternator stays on all the time and kills my battery overnight. anyone else actually tested their voltage at the T plug to see if their alternator is staying on all the time?

[datzenmike]

The '78 and '79 620 with IR alt has voltage on the yellow wire at all times... why not? 720s use a white wire but it's the same.

 

If you look at the two jumpers for converting ex to internal regulator you can see that the yellow is connected to the white and so on back to the positive terminal....

 

[jesusno2]

I must be retarded or some thing cause this is the second car Ive had and neither one I've been able to get an alternater to work with this diagram it just keep burning alternaters up I think I'm gonna shit can the whole setup with a gm one wire. I'm 100% I have it hooked up right.

[datzenmike]

I hear ya. I did the wiring and installed an '80 200sx IR alt.... and the red light was on!! shit! piss! fuck!! So which thing is wrong, my wiring or the alt??? I previously had thrown out 6 or 7 720 alts. but I guess I missed on. Threw it on... light out 14.7 volts. Woot Wiring must have been fine but a day later it crapped out. I had plans to convert a KA 80 amp over so I had to do it once more. Light out 14.6 volts charge and good to go. Some times it just takes not giving up. What are the chances that two alts were bad? Probably they were just from sitting and could use a cleaning.

[jesusno2]

Its just I keep going out and staring at my wiring racking my brain trying to figure out why none of my wires were the VR was have no juice exept the solid yellow my light on my dash never comes on either.