510 street/track car build

[aussiebj]

I was asked to post my build up over here as you guys might be interested , so here is a brief summary without all the replys from over at the Realm hope you enjoy..Barry

 

Ok so i moved over from the introduction section to here to document the build and cost along the way of my track toy with the help and input of fellow members...

After a 750 plus mile round trip to Culpeper VA,to go get the car here is the starting point......

The Car..

72 510 2 dr with an L16 fitted with a Turbo Tom set up(not running when i bought it) ,4point cage (thats definatly comming out)corbeau Forza racing seats,2 different but same colour(red ) 5 point harnesses (also comming out),16x7 panasports all round with 205 and 225 tires...BRE front fiberglass fenders and pop riveted on rear BRE flares..coilovers in front (unknown name)with HD springs and Tokico shocks in rear..

Unknows ...clutch type...trany??...rear end type and size...

all in all a fairly solid starting point for ....$3750

The Plan/goal

First off i want to get the car running in current trim to see what i have to start with..and then build on from there.

The long term goal is to build a solid reliable track car to drive on the street and surprise people at the track...

Engine..I am open as of now i like the idea of aluminium headed 302 with a T5 and a R200 rear end..no bashing here these r just my ideas..and i had a 1200 with a blown 302/C4 pro street car that i built so i know whats involved.Or stay 4 cylinder with a turbo???

Full roll cage

All saftey gear updated

Body work and Paint

Wheels and tires 16'' dia biggest i want to go but i want a 10" wide tire on the back with c mod flares

like Mikes rotary beast

..as for track driving i only do HPDE or open track days now no wheel to wheel racing any more...maybe a few time trials when she is fully sorted...BTW my first Track day is on May 21st at Pocono raceway..

More to come as i get into it

 

 

[aussiebj]

Ok after dissasembly of the carb to turbo and replacing the broken hose with newer silicone turbo hose and new gaskets,as well as new points ,condensor ,rotor,MSD blaster2 coil and coil wire ...installed aux tank to bypass old fuel..she fired up..well sort of ..it runs like a beast over 1800 rpms but under that it wont idle and just keeps poping through the carb..i checked the firing order and the wires ,the plugs look good enough to start with..so my question is why would it run over a certain rpm (1800) but runs like crap under that..i did check for vacum leaks and i did reconnect the vacum advacnce on the carb ..it was disconnected before....any thoughts?????

[aussiebj]

here are some pics of the turbo setup

[aussiebj]

here is a better pic of the car off the trailer and as work begins...

[aussiebj]

so after i found a vacum leak and one of the mixture screws backed almost all the way out ..I started from scratch with both the mixture screws one and a quater turns out ...and no vacum leaks, drained all the old fuel ..put in good fuel and she fired right up...I adjusted the idle to 900 rpms and bliped the throttle and she has good response..no hesitation or popping through the carb now...i need to install a boost gauge to see if its making boost now...then check all the brakes ..replace all hoses and take it out for a drive....

[aussiebj]

Ok as of now i am going to see how the motor performs on track in its current state..I had a great conversation this week with Bryan he use to install these turbo tom set ups and he is a wealth of information..turns out my car has a L20B in it and with the water injection and 10 to 15 lbs of boost it might be good for around 225hp depending on the condition of the motor..so May 21st`s track day will see the 510 running with the current setup ..ill keep u posted on updates till then ..brakes are next on the list..then roll cage ..relocate the fuel pump and install a fuel cell...not too much work, i have 4 and a bit weeks to go..

[aussiebj]

Ok i have a roll cage question..i have built plenty of cages for heay cars 3000lbs and always use 1 3/4 dom.... can i use 1 5/8 DOM for the cage for my 510..any one have pics of there cages that i can use for reference and what size are your tubes???..This will not be a show car this will see plenty of open track time...safety is my main concern...Thanks

[aussiebj]

Ok some updates..I bought an R180 rear LSD out of a 04 subaru WRX STi with a 3.90 ratio...axle adapters from John at Beta Motorsports and i am going with updated axles from Todd at Wolf Creek racing....The rear should be strong enough...as for a tranny im going with a 5 speed from a 90 240sx using a bellhousing modified to fit the L20B motor from Troy Ermish ....yes the parts add up quick but i want to build it once...pics to come..

[aussiebj]

As i said in the first post i would tally up the costs of a real world build...$3750( the car)

Parts bought so far...points,condensor and rotor.............................$25.38

...Turbo silicone hose and SST bolt clamps..............$33.85

...MSD Blaster 2 coil and wire.............................$58.93

...WRX STi LSD Rear end good used condition..........$600.00

... Beta Motorsports custom axle adapters + shipping..$520.00

Price update ..4-30-10.... Total to date...$4988.16

[aussiebj]

Ok started working on the 510, as i have 16 days to go till track day ..I dont have any time to do major updates so i just want to freshen up what i have for now...I started with the rear brakes as it would not roll good and the M/C was empty for the rear brakes..Ok i need help as i do not know what i have on there and i want to replace it all..

What type of rear shoes are good for the street and the track...where do i get them....Whats a good place for replacement parts for the drums ..The drums them selfs, wheel cylinders,springs ,clips ,brake hoses stock or braided lines...here are the pics of the brakes i got...Thanks

[aussiebj]

I thought while the wheels were off id take a look at the rear, its an R160 with a limited slip in it and it looks to be 4.1 ratio..here is a pic of the setup, i will put it up for sale after i install the wrx r180 i just bought....

[aussiebj]

Well i found drums and wheel cylinders and even one brake hose at the local parts place and i ordered Portefield rear shoes R-4s for the rear,just cant find all the small hardware ,I guess ill take it to the parts place and try and match it up

Brake parts ...............$77.00

Portefield shoes shipped $138.95

[aussiebj]

Ok i need some input...remember i have no frame of where to start or how it was setup before as i bought it in a non running condition..... and on the recommendation from Bryan F i tried to start from scratch so i removed the water injection and lowered the boost to the lowest setting around 5-7 psi till i get the car to run right....she runs great at idle..and when i work the throttle engine revs up fine ...so i take it out for a drive first gear good all the way up the power band....change into second at 3k runs good no hesttation....then i slow for the stop sign on my street ..and first gear she pops and runs rough till i raise the rpms up to 2500 or more ...at higher rpms it seams to run fine but under load at low rpms it just wont run...so i pull the plugs ..champion N11CY..they look a little lean ....add a little more fuel pressure, and richen up the mixture ..the idle improves but still the same result under driving conditions....check for vac leaks.... cant find any....what should the timing be set at ?? ..check the timing and its way advanced i think i cant seam to find the mark on the lower pulley...and why are there no indications just a pointer... and why can i move the top of the dizzy back and forth without the base moving ...looks like a small screw underneath near the condensor...ill take any help or advise...FYI the only parts i have not changed in the ign system r the cap, plugs, and wires..... Yes i have the manual but it does not explain too much ..its way old.....Thanks

[aussiebj]

Oh and yes it does make boost under load....

[aussiebj]

Ok now everybody is up to speed..any inputs???

[Bob3]

WOW - you are a madd poster! That has to be some kind of record . . . 15 rapid fire posts (with pics) in 13 minutes! :poke: :thumbup:

[Jesse C.]

Why didn't you just post it all in the "Project Datto" section?

 

Looks like a cool project, btw.

[motavated]

HOW MUCH!!!! I WANT IT BADDDD!!!!

 

Good luck with build and very nice car/engine!!!!

[aussiebj]

should i move this thread over to the project datto section????

[aussiebj]

Can a moderator move this thread over to the project datto section..Thanks Barry

[banzai510(hainz)]

the distributor is bolted to the timmingplate(underneath) then the timming plate is held down with the 10mm head bolt to the mount on the front cover. make sure this is tight. maybe when it idles get a staic light timming ck.

 

Bertvorgen(his L20 has like 210RWHP) or 510Rob on the 510realm would be a better guy to ask about these old turbo sytems as far as timming as I would think you need to retard under boost.

 

Most L20 used a 1 notch on the pulley and a sawtooth timming plate with 0-20deg on the front cover to measure the time. Some were on the left side soem on the right side. Why dont know but youwould need the correct match set. Pullat and the timming plate.

 

early L motors like the L16 had a timming pointer on the front timming cover and a 5 notch pulley as a indicattor for timming.

 

Some people may have pc this together which all these parts will fit a L motor but it really matching up all the set together.

 

if you new to L motors this will help.

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223/Hainz-Datsun-L-Series-Engine-01-Timing-Tare-down-and-Rebuild

 

theres alot of infor on olddatsuns.com.

 

But for Turbo experts that can give soem info right away would be the 2 guys I mentioned on the 510Realm

 

I got new spring Cap retainers from NAPA I believe for the rear drums.. I think they might have Gereric spring kits stuff.

 

As for those Petterfields. Some pads work better when they are Hot ,but I think you know this already

[fisch]

Really excited about this build Barry! Welcome! I wrote the son of the owner a bit on this car while it was for sale. I would have loved to have bought it, alas, too many projects. So you can imagine I am thrilled to be able to live it vicariously through you.

 

Freakin Turbo Tom car, how cool!! And on the east coast! Bonus!

 

Alas I am pretty useless when it come to things mechanical, way more visual!

[510six]

I am glad you posted your build here I have a soft spot for L series turbo cars.

[aussiebj]

Ok got back to work on the car today..it has a notched lower pulley..one mark straight accross both sides of the groove and 5 other notches on the engine side of the pulley...i set it at 15 deg BTC and it still ran like crap..so i cut off all the heat wrap on the exhaust, only to find some cracks ..one around the wastegate and another at the exhaust to turbo pipe ..so i pulled the whole assembly off and was just going to buy a dual carb setup ..OMG sticker shock, i cant belive the price of a nice dual setup...so I decided to weld up the cracks and im making a new exhaust to turbo pipe..i need to get exhaust gasket material tomorrow to put it all back together...and there was one vacum leak at the intake that i could only see now its all disassembled.....so with everything fixed and sealed up i should be ok....fingers crossed..Btw the turbo impellers on both sides looked ok....thanks for all the advise..Barry

[aussiebj]

5-16.... got the turbo setup all put back together and fired her up and the same poping thru the carb...but i just finished installing a 450 hp chevy engine in a camaro and my eng builder came over for the first fire up and cam break in..while i was finishing up some loose ends he was checking out the datto,he played with it for about 5 mins and said that my problem was the carb..so im putting a new 500 cfm edelbrock carb on it tomorrow..... i am quickly running out of time 5 days to go till Pocono..Good news is the rest of the car is done ..heres a pic of the turbo system removed....and cleaned up...