metalmonkey47 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 So how much did it set you back for the whole enchilada. I think I payed just over $20 (Not counting shipping) for all of em. I got tons of wholesale closeout from rockauto so I payed almost nothing for them. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 what did you get for $20..LMK...so that I know what to do on Rock Auto. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 what did you get for $20..LMK...so that I know what to do on Rock Auto. Basically all of the bushing on the front end. All of the cheap one's are gone though for the 210 models. Also, I used ebay, forgot to mention so it adds up to about $30. You just gotta spend some time with google and amazon. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 It may take some searching on their site but Suspension Restoration Parts Co, 319-C Motor City Court, Modesto CA 95358, www.suspension.com, has a lot to offer. If all else fail the site suggests sending them what information you have, like dimensions, and they will get back to you with a quote. Currently they offer mostly black, graphite impregnated, parts but do stock some parts in various colors of Polyethelene. Quote Link to comment
kidatari Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I have the magic trick for disconnecting stuck Tie-Rod Ends. Tools Required: 1. Cheap-o Propane torch (Mine cost ~11 @ Home Despot) 2. Hammer (Non-marring is best, I use an old copper hammer) 3. Wax candle (None of that scented shit, and no stupid soy candles. Just plain-ole beeswax) Steps: 1. Remove the cotter pin and remove the 2. Heat the attach fitting that the tie-rod end is bolted through. (Note that you will melt some of the old Tie Rod boot, but try to not point the flame directly at the rubber. You're replacing it anyway, right?) 3. Once the attach fitting and TRE stud is hot, rub the candle on the stud/housing. The intent is to get melted wax to flow into the taper area that the ball joint seats into. 4. Whack that sumbitch with a hammer! Every time I've use this trick, it took 1-2 whacks and the TRE pops free. If you don't have a non-marring hammer, use a short brass punch. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 So did it work? Why does no one ever finish these threads? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted May 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Oops, sorry about that. I fell behind and forgot about it. I've had it done for a few weeks now. Just took some heat as well as brains. Hadn't realized that it was reversed threaded, so once I got it going in the right direction is was easy as pie. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Good to know. By the way that candle trick someone brought up really does work well,my brother showed me that many years ago. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted May 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Yeah, I've heard about it a good bit actually, just never got around to getting any candles. lol Quote Link to comment
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