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Sticky Brake Drums


DatDoug

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loosin the adjuster as far as you can. if the adjuster is frozen or the parts are so new there is no movement tolerance i use a big 5lb hammer. making sure i put the lug nuts on to protect the threads. a nice large axe will do also. i usually drench the studs and behind the backing plate with wd-40. the last drum that gave me trouble on my volare took me 2 days to get off. by then i was trying to break the drum off thinking i'd buy a new one. the wd-40 soaking the whole night did the trick for me with the really big hammer.

 

if you have no movement then its probably frozen to the studs and hub. smack the shit out of it. if you look really close at the hub you will be able to see it break loose and then you can wiggle and pry from there if need be.

 

if its the rear sometimes if you smack the axle/hub instead it will break the drum loose. that worked for me once. others might say noooooo!!

 

some may suggest heating it up or cutting it off. i'll tell you one thing the old saying about getting a bigger hammer is no joke especially when it comes to drums. iv'e spent hours with a regular hammer just to have it pop loose right away with a big hammer. SIZE DOES MATTER. good luck.

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A few warm up whacks, then a few around the outside of my nuts and I get it off. (I have a 6lber and use it just for that.):lol:

 

 

The holes for the studs are big enough that they don't hold much when rusty, but the center hole is very close tolerance. Heating will make the hole larger and easier to wiggle.

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BFH and lots of Panther Piss(WD40). Make sure that it is not the shoes that is holding it up. Let it soak over night if you need to.

 

I always celan the center bore of the drum and the step on the axle where it center. Clean it with a file or sandpaper and then I use lots of antiseize on it. Sure helps next time you have to take it apart.

 

Jason

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