Donor differentials for a 510 wagon

[Joshua Jones]

So I am new here and have been searching the threads a bit. I am trying to figure out if the differential from a nissan hardbody is compatible with a 71 510 goon rear end, and what rear ends and differentials are compatible with the wagon as far as bolt on goes? Sorry for the newb question. I a here these differentials like to go boom with engine swaps such as a ka.

[Joshua Jones]

nobody? This is either a super stupid question or the forum is a little slow eh?

[datzenmike]

Another 510 goon diff will fit. Only others are the Roadster and the Maxima goon diffs. This is because these three have the same 23 tooth side gear splines. All 520/521/620/720/D21 trucks up to and over 2001 have 29 tooth splines.

 

The H-190 in your goon should easily handle your KA unless abused.

[Joshua Jones]

Thanks for the advise, I dont plan on abusing it, but as it is a 30 year old diff I want to change the oil and make sure to keep it in top notch shape. Any suggestion on the kind o oil I should use, or weight? and how much.

[datzenmike]

GL-5, 80 W 90 and one liter.

[Joshua Jones]

thanks Mike your rad!

[jesusno2]

the best solution will cost ya, as always their is no easy option. but if i had it to do all over again, i would get a toyota truck diff and have it narrowed and axles made to fit with the 4 lug pattern. why toyota?? because they have a zillion ratios aval, lsd,lockers aval, and their lightweight and tough as nails. i have never checked on the cost and i could prolly narrow one myself. and dutchman up in portland can custom make axle shafts. plus a stock toyota 3rd is a 4.10 ratio in the 4x4 which in my opinion would be a perfect ratio for a ka wagon with the ka trans.

[dryheat]

All of the bearings and seals are still available for the stock H-190. I would take the pumpkin to a local rear-end shop (unless you are good at working on differentials) and have them go through it for you. Shouldn't cost too much. Don't forget to do the axle bearings too while it's all apart.

[Joshua Jones]

Thanks for the tip dryheat. I was also wondering if an entire truck rearend will fit in a wagon(what years and models) , are they the same length? I know the gear ratio is bound to be different. I am buying a 510 wagon with a KA swap and am a little worried about the dif blowing up on me as I have read in can be a common problem. It would just be nice to know what my options are if this happens, or to have a backup rebuilt pumpkin just laying around. Thanks for all the help guys.

[datzenmike]

The 620 truck axle is wider plus the axles are 6 bolt rim.

 

The truck differential can be swapped in by removing the ring gear and swapping the wagon side gears in with the correct spline for the wagon axles. Use the search for a Mklotz70 how to write up on it.

 

The truck 620 diff comes in 4.11, 4.375 and 4.625. The 720 come in 3.364, 3.70, 3.889, 4.11, 4.375.

[DRIVEN]

If there was a bolt-in I'm not aware of one. The H190 has a 7.5" ring gear and is plenty sturdy if not abused. If you need more gear choices, limited-slip or factory disc brakes then some fabrication will be required.

Ford 8": Lots of gear choices and available limited slip. Shares wheel bolt pattern. Getting hard to find and kind of expensive.

Ford 8.8: Lots of gear choices, available with limited slip and disc brakes. Shares wheel bolt pattern. Plentiful and cheap.

Mazda GSL-SE: Factory limited-slip and discs, right bolt pattern. Kinda hard to find and actually smaller gears than the H190, yet still pretty tough.

GM 7.5: Factory Limited slip, rear discs, very cheap and plentiful. Wrong wheel pattern.

Toyota PU: Lots of gear choices and aftermarket support. Plentiful and cheap. Very tough. Wrong wheel pattern.

All of these choices will likely need the housings narrowed and some will require new axles as the originals cannot be shortened and resplined. Some will require redrilling of the axles, drums/rotors for the wheels to bolt up. Most will require floor modification if the car is lowered at all.

[dryheat]

If there was a bolt-in I'm not aware of one. The H190 has a 7.5" ring gear and is plenty sturdy if not abused. If you need more gear choices, limited-slip or factory disc brakes then some fabrication will be required.

Ford 8": Lots of gear choices and available limited slip. Shares wheel bolt pattern. Getting hard to find and kind of expensive.

Ford 8.8: Lots of gear choices, available with limited slip and disc brakes. Shares wheel bolt pattern. Plentiful and cheap.

Mazda GSL-SE: Factory limited-slip and discs, right bolt pattern. Kinda hard to find and actually smaller gears than the H190, yet still pretty tough.

GM 7.5: Factory Limited slip, rear discs, very cheap and plentiful. Wrong wheel pattern.

Toyota PU: Lots of gear choices and aftermarket support. Plentiful and cheap. Very tough. Wrong wheel pattern.

All of these choices will likely need the housings narrowed and some will require new axles as the originals cannot be shortened and resplined. Some will require redrilling of the axles, drums/rotors for the wheels to bolt up. Most will require floor modification if the car is lowered at all.

 

Brilliant, simple, hits all the important points, easy to follow ... this needs to be a sticky! I plan on using the 8.8 when the time comes.

[greybeard]

IIRC, there is an old toyota goon,(maybe a Corona mk2 or Cressida), and the drop out diff

is the same as the early Toyota 4X4 trucks just change side gears, like an H-190.

 

that would give you the correct housing and axles (bolt patern) for a goon and the ratios from the truck.

[Joshua Jones]

So I have a guy who has a 78 510 wagon he is parting, I am wondering if the diff, just the diff is the same as my 71 510 wagon and will swap in????? Thanks Guys

[datzenmike]

The goon is an H-190 the A10 goon uses an H-165 although both were leaf spring on a rigid axle.

[edakotaford]

interesting... i'm wondering the same questions for my wagon. what're the ratio's for the roadster rearend? and roadsters came stock with LSD, correct? i have been contemplating just having my rearend welded and doing what i do best... but i've heard from a few reliable sources that the wagon rearend results in many broken axels when welded?

[datzenmike]

It was only an option on the Roadsters.

[edakotaford]

is it a bolt in application?

do you know the ratios?

[izzo]

I think GL-4 is actually the stuff you want to use, gl5 has more/different additives that could wear down faster. At least thats what i read on one of the threads previously here....

[ppeters914]

Posted multiple times, but here it is again for the Search-impaired:

 

Roadster stock differential ratio:

 

1600: 3.90

2000: 3.70

 

Roadster LSD diffs were only an option. They are rare and go for $1k and higher when they do show up. Waste of time looking for one as the racers are all over 'em.

[edakotaford]

does anyone use modified axels and just weld their diff's? i'm hearing the stock axels pop just going around corners, when welded...

[datzenmike]

I think GL-4 is actually the stuff you want to use, gl5 has more/different additives that could wear down faster. At least thats what i read on one of the threads previously here....

 

For open diffs GL-5 is recommended by Nissan. It contains sulphur compounds that give it superior sheer strength to protect the mating gear surfaces. GL-4 is formulated differently with reduced content because the sulphur can break down and will attack copper and brass syncro rings. Tranny/diff oil should be replaced every 30K.