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77 rustrat

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Im not as in the know as some others on here but thats a bit of a monster cam for a rig that you plan to drive on the street... Im pretty sure that one would require aftermarket lash pads and valve springs/retainers also... For just the price of doing the head/cam right with that amount of lift you could be well on your way to a KA24 swap that would be more economical/reliable/long lived... and if done right it would rape that little L20 like there was no tomorrow...

 

I like the L motors alot, friggin love them actually... but when talking performance, dollar for dollar the newer stuff wins hands down. The only way Id run a nasty cam in an L is if I could find one in a good well prepped head that was ready to run.

 

Just my .02 cents, take it or leave it, hopefully somebody else chimes in with some more complete/correct info.

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olddatsuns.com is strictly a site put together by Datsun enthusiasts for information, not as a way of ordering parts. I don't think anyone does any reproduction body parts these days anyway, sometimes you can find NOS ones on Ebay but they're usually $$$. Best way to go is generally to find someone parting out a truck that hasn't been damaged. Also be careful with your cam selection, the one listed on Ebay is probably not streetable, and if you get a big cam you need to upgrade everything else on the top end. If it's horsepower you want and you don't have lots of skill and cash, you can't beat a KA24 swap like mike said

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Says right in the ad: This cam was intalled a L20b race motor but never run, the cam specs are too much for my street aplication.

 

 

77 rustrat.... never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, ever over cam your motor. The stock duration is 248 degrees so 270-280 should be enough and 0.450 lift will do the job. For this to work you will need or should have a slightly larger carb, maybe a good, not a somebody else's junk, Weber 32.36 and preferably, an L16/18 exhaust manifold. This will allow the cam to breathe in and out.

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Alot of people really like the "u20" cam found in stock L-20's. I have one in my L-18. It has good torque, and doesn't fall off. If you've had radical head work, are using a header, and have big carb(s), and big exhaust, then there are a few pretty good options. The guy to seek out is Kelvin Deitz. He's in Eugene, or. He used to sell cams under the name DAMB. He spent alot of time coming up with good grinds. Plus, he'll tell youif you need different springs, rockers, wiping pads, etc.

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Honestly I wouldn't cam out a L series engine, just my opinion . I am going with a fuel injected engine . Plenty of power But I am not you :lol: like I said just my opinion

 

dont take this the wrong way but you must have never driven a built L series the 2.2 in my girlfriends car puts down just as much if not more than an N/A ka (155hp & 151TQ @ the wheels) and you get to hear the carbs singing at 6700rpm :D but yes you are intitled to your opinion and FI is awesome too, Hmm ITBs on a built KAde would be the best of both worlds

 

 

as far as a cam check with Rebello Racing the have been building HOT ROD L series engines for a LONG time and can lead you in the right direction for a good street cam

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dont take this the wrong way but you must have never driven a built L series the 2.2 in my girlfriends car puts down just as much if not more than an N/A ka (155hp & 151TQ @ the wheels) and you get to hear the carbs singing at 6700rpm :D but yes you are intitled to your opinion and FI is awesome too, Hmm ITBs on a built KAde would be the best of both worlds

 

 

as far as a cam check with Rebello Racing the have been building HOT ROD L series engines for a LONG time and can lead you in the right direction for a good street cam

 

do you have any contact info for rebello

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dont take this the wrong way but you must have never driven a built L series the 2.2 in my girlfriends car puts down just as much if not more than an N/A ka (155hp & 151TQ @ the wheels) and you get to hear the carbs singing at 6700rpm :D but yes you are intitled to your opinion and FI is awesome too, Hmm ITBs on a built KAde would be the best of both worlds

 

 

as far as a cam check with Rebello Racing the have been building HOT ROD L series engines for a LONG time and can lead you in the right direction for a good street cam

 

No sir I don't take nothing the wrong way and no sir I haven't rode in a camed out L series . I have to agree with you there is nothing like hearing the carbs opening up on a hopped up engine . But lets face the facts , dependability is better than hopping up a L series "all of this is my opinion" . If you stick a ka 155hp & 151TQ @ the wheels in a 620 and do some small stuff like a k&n air filter and other odd and end little things to it , you will gain a little bit more power out of the ka and the 620 will be considerably faster than the stock L series . I am not trying to go in to my life story but I use to bracket race three nights a week I had a S-10 with a 383 stroker 2 speed powerglide tranny with trans brake and a 9" ford rear end narrowed . I loved the set up but at the same time I was working on it 4 days a week and racing 3 days a week . Well after completely ripping the shit out of the 383 I stuck a completely stock vortec 350 in . It ran so close to the same time every time that it wasn't nothing for me to win 8 out of 10 time and that engine stayed together . I ran it for 4 years 3 nights a week every week , just changed the oil plugs and wires . All I am saying is when you hop an engine up so much it starts to give you problems . So that is why I think the ideal thing to do is put a more modern engine in ! Look at it like this lets say the L20 makes idk 100hp and the ka makes 155hp, by the time you hop the L series up you could buy a whole donor truck with a modern engine . Please don't get me wrong I love hard core old school carbed engines but I will save those for my dragster or my old 4x4 mud slinger but when it comes to something that I might say what the hell I might drive to San Diego for the week end and attend there Datsun meet , I think I will stick with a stock L series or if I would like more hp I will just stick a modern fuel injected engine in it . Please don't think that I am trying to convert any body or say that any one is wrong for hopping up an L series , because honestly I think the idea is cool as hell . Just in my experience Hopped up engines have more problems than a stock spec such as bore and all that good stuff .

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No sir I don't take nothing the wrong way and no sir I haven't rode in a camed out L series . I have to agree with you there is nothing like hearing the carbs opening up on a hopped up engine . But lets face the facts , dependability is better than hopping up a L series "all of this is my opinion" . If you stick a ka 155hp & 151TQ @ the wheels in a 620 and do some small stuff like a k&n air filter and other odd and end little things to it , you will gain a little bit more power out of the ka and the 620 will be considerably faster than the stock L series . I am not trying to go in to my life story but I use to bracket race three nights a week I had a S-10 with a 383 stroker 2 speed powerglide tranny with trans brake and a 9" ford rear end narrowed . I loved the set up but at the same time I was working on it 4 days a week and racing 3 days a week . Well after completely ripping the shit out of the 383 I stuck a completely stock vortec 350 in . It ran so close to the same time every time that it wasn't nothing for me to win 8 out of 10 time and that engine stayed together . I ran it for 4 years 3 nights a week every week , just changed the oil plugs and wires . All I am saying is when you hop an engine up so much it starts to give you problems . So that is why I think the ideal thing to do is put a more modern engine in ! Look at it like this lets say the L20 makes idk 100hp and the ka makes 155hp, by the time you hop the L series up you could buy a whole donor truck with a modern engine . Please don't get me wrong I love hard core old school carbed engines but I will save those for my dragster or my old 4x4 mud slinger but when it comes to something that I might say what the hell I might drive to San Diego for the week end and attend there Datsun meet , I think I will stick with a stock L series or if I would like more hp I will just stick a modern fuel injected engine in it . Please don't think that I am trying to convert any body or say that any one is wrong for hopping up an L series , because honestly I think the idea is cool as hell . Just in my experience Hopped up engines have more problems than a stock spec such as bore and all that good stuff .

 

^^^well put and very true^^^ i just cant leave well enough alone :lol:

 

thanks for the compliment

 

now lets find this guy a cam

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Having a nice cam is great if you have the airflow for it, sidedraft SUs, Weber, Dellortos, etc. Some kind of carburetor or EFI that allows it to breathe affectively.

 

Your cam is limited by your intake and exhaust. If they're close to stock, you cam should be as well. A mild increase in lift and duration will take advantage of the stock motor, certainly, but go too far and you need to build the engine to handle the extra airflow, otherwise it just sucks. Or rather, doesn't suck (airflow) No flow, no power.

 

I have an L7 Nismo rally cam in my built 20b. It works fine, but I will be going to a large cam with lift of around .480 or .510 My duration could also increase.

 

One of the biggest disadvantages of a cam in a STREET DRIVEN Datsun is the amount of overlap needed to make the power. My 510 does NOT like idling. About 1500 is decent, even though I make her idle at 1000 for noise and because idling at 1500 everyone thinks you have a lock up torque converter or something and wants to race you.

 

And when she does sit there idling at 1000, she starts gumming up from all the extra fuel not going anywhere, because at that point the motor is not efficient at all. The exhaust fumes suck, it smells bad, but once you romp on it, that all goes away! Then it's very fun. But how often can you just go 8/8s in traffic for more than 2 seconds?

 

My point being if you spend a lot of time in traffic, or are planning to use the rig as a daily driver, go mild on the cam side. It will still move well, and won't cost you much. (I'd go regrind on the cam until you find one you like) Since my car is progressing toward an actual race car, I don't mind a few side effects, but Spokane doesn't have the worst traffic either. California on the other hand, yeah, not so good.

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okay i give if not a cam what ould be the best upgrades for my motor. like i said in my update im working on a build plan but cant give any specfics yet but i do want to keep the l20 in it so what should i do to it

 

Mike it is like I said , I am not trying to talk you out of it . What you could do is get you another L20 engine put it on a engine stand and just take your time and build it here and there . Like I said do what you want to do , not what other people want you to do :lol:

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Im all for camming a motor.

 

Isky and webcamshafts make soem nice cams

 

The last one I got was a webcamshafts 252 duration 488lift but its not installed.

 

I have a Scneider 460 260 also in another motor but now they dont make new cams anymore and will only do regrinds.

Isky has some also

the 475/275 and a 480/280 also. those should be all good grinds to start out with.

but add retaniers lash pads of who knows what size and new rocker arms $$$$ and its soem money.

 

If you got money go for it. If you buy the cam they will still make it for when I need to get another. Nobody buys then they stop making them

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