limited slip in a wagon

[murderwagon]

how can i get a lsd in my wagon cheap? possible?

[slodat]

There's not a cheap option. The Roadster LSD will fit a wagon rear diff. But, they are rare these days and when on eBay pull $1k+ for an LSD carrier.

 

Other than that, there is the Precision Gear PowerBrute, which at least one member on here runs and is happy with. It runs $400 for the part and it will need to be setup by a qualified person.

[WagDatto]

The problem with the roadster LSD is that rebuild kits, from my understanding, are NLA. I'm sure you can piece something together, but the trouble you'd go through would be ridiculous.

 

For the money, you could get a Ford 8.8" shortened and installed. Old Mustangs used the same bolt pattern, have aftermarket LSD support at fair prices, they're beefy and I believe disk brakes are either factory or cheap aftermarket. Plus, they can hold a good deal more power than the H190.

[69FJWagon]

I talked to the guys from OS Giken at the JCCS show and they make one for the roadster but I was unsure of the spline count on a roadster compared to the wagon... I did however ask the price of said UNIT... $1200 or $1300 bucks:eek::blink: WOW, they did say that you would never need to rebuild it and the break away can be adjusted to suit the type of driving you do but like wagdatto said you could almost build a ford rear end and be done. the precision gear power brute LSD is only sold for the trucks and Z cars.

 

even if you had a LSD for the wagon you would still have the issue that the wagon axles are weak.

[Spades]

my boss reserved a LSD for his roadster for a ton of $$$$$$$....i did some measuring, and if you find a LSD 8.8 out of a late 80's very early 90s mustang, you wont have to do anything to it other than hooking up the brakes and making your leaf springs fit.

 

we had one here at the shop, so i took measurments. everything is in the right spot...the spring perches are wrong though, so you would obviously have to use the perches from your ratsun. its been so long, i can't remember if the outside of the axles were larger than the 190, so you may need to fab custom spring perches with wider u-bolts.

 

that being said, you wouldnt have to shorten it...however, i did not measure how far the drums stick out, so you may have to get a offset wheel. if i ever get my wagon to enough HP, I had planned on the 8.8 swap. while traction is a slight issue with my z20s, untill i go to a z24 and maybe turbo it, there really isnt a point for a LSD yet.

[murderwagon]

thanks alot i plan on doing a nasty sr20 swap motor is about 600hp at the flywheel so the ford idea will end up happening more than likely thanks alot

[WagDatto]

With that much power, you wouldn't want a stock rear end anyway. The leaf springs will wrap themselves into a coil, and you'll break both axle shafts before you get out of the driveway.

 

Going to a Ford rear end is a better way to go with a 4 link and coilovers.

 

Why do you want that much power in a 510, though? Unless you're tubbing it and drag racing it, I dont see you being able to use that power... Plus, with a turbo, the power will be on/off with traction.

 

Post a build thread and take lots of pictures.

[Spades]

a 600hp sr20 wont be for the street anyway...unless you have a 2 stage programmable ECU so you can turn the fuel and boost WAY down, you will need to be running race gas, and even if you tune it to under 300hp, it will be almost undrivable. my lightened 72 with a naps z20s can loosen the tires up at low RPM in second gear if i want it too...with a LSD it might not, but the point is, if a 100ish horsepower engine can make the tires spin whenever you want, what do you think would happen with even 300hp?

 

if you truely want to build a 600hp sr20 and stick it in a wagon, you will need a shortened heavily modified ford 9" posi rear end with custom suspension. a 8.8" is a strong and viable LSD, but after the 400hp mark, dont expect it to hold together. I expect the shortened rear diff alone will cost you around $1000, and you will need either coil springs, or some VERY heavy duty custom made leaf springs with wicked traction bars.

 

also, you will need much more powerfull brakes, and better front suspension. plan on running a fuel cell and cutting the firewall back to allow the engine and trans to sit further back in the engine bay for better weight distribution. dont forget you will have to re enforce the sub frames...these are unibody cars, and 600hp twisting its way to the rear wheels will most likely snap welds and bend the cheesy tin these cars are made of.

 

my guess would be that without alot of money in tubs, slicks, and rear suspension, your 1/4 mile times will be the same with 300hp as they would be with 600hp.

Edited November 1, 2009 by Spades

[murderwagon]

it will be tuned down and im puttin about 150 to the ground with 255 and they barley break loose now with no locker and im not dead set on the sr yet i have been debating building a 2.0 or a vg30 swap nothing set in stone appreciate the response thanks alot

[ichorid]

600whp SR! I demand

 

[murderwagon]

on my desk top ill get em up asap bored 63 over cogsworth rods and pistons chromoley crank jks cams titanium valve train shaved head porter polished custom intake and headers 75 mill garret urbo running 618 hp at the crank at 28psi of boost

[murderwagon]

i wanna hear every pro and con of the vg i am debating putting the sohc vg in my goon and i want to know how hard and if the benefits are worth the work i want to drive my wagon across the country this summer and i want something with some nuts also debating building a l2.0 a bit and running that give me some advice please and thank you and by the way the sr will be going into a 71 240z or a 72 2 door dime if the wagon doesnt get it

[jesusno2]

dude if you want a well running and driving goon, a ka sohc,or, dohc dont matter, or even a vg is the way to go. sr motors cost a fortune cant really get many parts in the usa for em. I mean think about it. Say you out in the middle of no where(driving cross country) and you sr's water pump or whatever part fails what are ya gonna do? besides ka motors are easy to install for the most part, parts are avaliable (even aftermarket) and they preform well in a 510.

[69FJWagon]

I agree ^^^ go KAde and slap a turbo on it if thats the way you wanna go as far as a 600HP sr its very do-able drivability and reliability... questionable... build a nice 300-350 WHP KAde"t" and call it good. Have you driven a 600hp car??? I am not trying to bag on you but my 2 door makes almost 300whp (about 340 at the flywheel) at 12.5 psi and can be a hand full traction wise at times even in 3rd gear. I have driven a few autocross cars with 600hp with 14" wide goodyear slicks in the rear and 13" wide in the front and even then if you stab the throttle past half way it will light the tires right off no problem. what ever you decide to do please be safe

Edited November 3, 2009 by 69FJWagon

[fo0manchu]

BTW, ford 8.8 do need to be shortened. Even the ones out of the ford mustangs. Measurement from hub to hub might be right on, but then you got to bolt the brakes and wheels on.

 

How do i know, because i have a shortened one sitting in my garage right now and did many trips to the junkyard with my tape measure. The shortest is getting 2 short side axles out of ranger and putting them into the mustang diff. This will give you a 5 by 114 lug pattern though.

 

Perhaps you can run them unshortened with some massive flares?

[murderwagon]

the sr non turbo is pretty much the same as the turbo i had to sr in my old car for a few years as for the ka i refuse to put it in my wagon and its exactly the same work as the sr so why do all that work for a motor that is pretty much worthless in my opinion when a vg is a way stronger motor thanks for the responds thou i appreciate it

[MicroMachinery]

.. as for the ka i refuse to put it in my wagon and its exactly the same work as the sr so why do all that work for a motor that is pretty much worthless in my opinion..

 

Wow, those are pretty strong words. I haven't done an SR swap, but I hear that it is indeed more difficult, as well as ALOT more expensive..

[murderwagon]

maybe a little harsh but everyone and their brothers do a ka swap and its over done and its exactly the same swap there is no difference what so ever unless i have heard wrong i did a sr swap into a sedan in 48 hours from drive in to drive out more exspensive but why do all that work for a truck motor and i already have the engine sitting on stand waiting to go into something and yes i have driven many cars over 600hp not a 510 my last car was a 580 bhp 2001 honda s2000

Edited November 4, 2009 by murderwagon

[fo0manchu]

a lot of people have sr swaps as well. just guys with less money(like me) go ka, people with money = sr's. If you have one, then you should just put it in.

 

VG's are good motors, thats one of the options i was thinking of. But then I got a ka24de for 200 bucks and it only had about 60k-ish miles on it. So that was my choice. Many people have vg30e's as well. If you want to be different, how bout vg30dett?

 

Any VG you put in will have some good torque and respond well when boosted. All the choices, ka, sr, and vg are good choices.

 

Stuff one in there and post some pics.. yah!

The 510 with a lot of power just feels way different. My buddies qoute when i was going 90 on the freeway was, "it feels like im going a 1000 miles an hour!"

[thisismatt]

maybe a little harsh but everyone and their brothers do a ka swap and its over done and its exactly the same swap there is no difference what so ever unless i have heard wrong i did a sr swap into a sedan in 48 hours from drive in to drive out more exspensive but why do all that work for a truck motor and i already have the engine sitting on stand waiting to go into something and yes i have driven many cars over 600hp not a 510 my last car was a 580 bhp 2001 honda s2000

You sure talk a lot for not saying much. Sounds like you haven't done shiiiiaaat. I want my 2 minutes back after reading all these retarded comments :blink:

[ichorid]

Ka swaps can be cheap but they can be expensive if you want them too. The fact is sr vs ka if you blow an engine at an event. You can have a new one the same day! Not so much with an sr. At least in la.

[Spades]

BTW, ford 8.8 do need to be shortened. Even the ones out of the ford mustangs. Measurement from hub to hub might be right on, but then you got to bolt the brakes and wheels on.

 

How do i know, because i have a shortened one sitting in my garage right now and did many trips to the junkyard with my tape measure. The shortest is getting 2 short side axles out of ranger and putting them into the mustang diff. This will give you a 5 by 114 lug pattern though.

 

Perhaps you can run them unshortened with some massive flares?

 

i was looking at backspacing the wheels, but it is possible you cant get something with that much off-set.

 

and in regards to what to swap in...dude...if you want that much HP, nothing is going to just bolt right in and give you 600hp...doesnt work that way, no matter what engine you put in, even a massive V8 will need serious building...not to mention that a 4cyl or 6cyl that will fit in your wagon will be a fraction of the displacement that a V8 would be.

 

I wont even comment on the build list of the SR...

 

however, i will comment on the VG and KA comments. why would you think of a VG when you have 600+ horsepower in mind? i know the VG series is strong, but thats a huge figure, and i havent seen any of them near those numbers.

 

as far as a KA being worthless...do your homework. they have the same oil injection design on the bottom of the pistons that the SR series has, and the CA series. they are a good starting point, but because of the pistons, they arent set up for boost from the factory. technically if you are spending all that money on a SR to get 600 horsepower, the same could be done to a KA series with better results...more displacement to start off with. either engine would be a race engine with limited longevity...its six hundred horsepower on a 4 banger for f--ks sake. whats more, your precious SR is a aluminum block....CA and KA are cast iron...if you want to get technical, the CA is the best choice because of the arangement of the valves and the lay out of the block and the fact that it is cast iron. but any of the CA,KA, and SR motors can make huge numbers if properly built.

 

i am all for offering help on differential choices, but when people start spouting off ricer fan boy internet pep boy parts list engine builds and bashing perfectly good engines because it makes them feel smarter, i have to say something.

[murderwagon]

thanks for the advice and as far for these smart ass comments don't bother being a douche bag this isn't a fight starting post i am asking opinions I'm not gonna be running the car down the road at 30 psi all day more like 5 to 10 which will be a hell of a lot lower than 600hp if you wanna talk shit go jerk off while head butting your friends if you wanna race let me know when you are in central new york

[DISLEXICDIME]

wheres the pics

[Spades]

thanks for the advice and as far for these smart ass comments don't bother being a douche bag this isn't a fight starting post i am asking opinions I'm not gonna be running the car down the road at 30 psi all day more like 5 to 10 which will be a hell of a lot lower than 600hp if you wanna talk shit go jerk off while head butting your friends if you wanna race let me know when you are in central new york

 

 

look bud, the simple fact is, you dont gain respect by bashing other peoples work(like KA swaps), or bashing a good engine. I am not trying to talk s--t, just trying to help you understand how much time and money it will take to make a wagon handle that much power, hell, even a couple hundred horsepower is more than the stock suspension would know what to do with.

 

I am not trying to be a douche or a smart ass. just letting you know that it will take alot of time and money and tuning to get what you are talking about, and on forums when you pull up a ricer name brand parts list then talk up a motor that has more flaws than the one you are dissing, well, people are gonna talk crap about you.

 

to put the thread back on topic, you will need a 9" posi shortened, and then your best bet is to go with a custom built ladder and coil suspension in the back with really wide tires to have any hope of keeping it all together when you do load up your race settings in your ECU. the leaf springs on the wagon would warp and twist creating massive wheel hop, and that hop would shear bolts holding the diff down or rip the leaf mounting points from the subframe.

 

so yeah, you are talking about thousands of dollars worth of custom fab work for the rear suspension alone...if you have the money and the time to wait for it all to get built, then go for it! and like everyone else said, get lots of pictures!