its the alt right?

[skunk]

:oSo when im driving my lights are brighter, when i have my lights on my blinkers blink slower and when im stoped my haz lights dont flash they just stay on but when i drive they blink.

its the alt right?:confused:

and if so what alts work? called a auto part store and they said theres not a 620 i must have a 720 i toled them no and they hung up on me.:mad:

and yes i used the surch and it cam up with so meny post that i forgot what i was looking for and end up spending two hours reading dead posts from 2008:lol:

[alabama_lowlife]

see if this will help.....i'm not sure if it goes back far enough to be helpful, but there's alot of specs on nissan alternators on this site. http://www.vicic.com.tw/ap-001-hitachi.htm

[HRH]

Which auto parts store did you call? (Don't say NAPA) That counter person should be freaking shot on general principle.

 

I'd almost say more wiring or battery, being that even if your alternator was dead, your blinkers would still work unless you're operating around 8 volts or at the threshold of what the coil needs to provide spark.

 

An easy way to tell is to put a voltmeter across the battery posts while it's running. If it's 13.5-14.5, it's fine. If it's 12 or below, your alternator isn't charging.

[RatRod25]

Or if your idle is way low that could happen.. check the volts coming from an to ur alt at idle and at like 1500-2000 rpm

[skunk]

well the prob with that is the truck does not idel smoth, the carb needs re build or replace and it goes up and down non stop.

ill see if i can find a volt-mt

and my my blinkers work with headlights off but when headlights are on there really really slow like that kid that eats paint chips slow

Edited October 27, 2009 by skunktruckin

[moparvwfreak]

called a auto part store and they said theres not a 620 i must have a 720 i toled them no and they hung up on me.:mad::

 

dont ya love it when that happens??? i know i do. had some a-hole manage at schucks tell me that my jeep was not an AMC but a chrysler. round and round we went, then i showed him ALL the build plates and reg. shut him up real quick.

 

as for your question, check the regulator. if your lights are hella bright it is getting too much power, but at idle it wont give enough to let things work properly. i had that happen on my old corrola a number of years ago.

[slam_dat_sun]

Well I had to go check but I thought it was right , when you have your hazards on and you apply your brakes the hazards quit flashing ........

[moparvwfreak]

yup. mine do that as well. if the brakes are on the hazzards dont work. kinda makes me mad as there are times i would like to have tehm flash when on the brakes. especially since i dont have a working E-brake in my 73.

[skunk]

well my girlfriend really wants her stereo in the truck, and its a nicer one so its going to use up a bit of power. should i just get a biger alt anyway?

[Roadracer Al]

 

I'm all ears about a good alternator choice, I need one as well. Mine makes a horrible squealing and doesn't put out any voltage.

[nukeday]

Online discount parts here rockauto.com

 

 

But, yeah. Could be the alternator, and probably is, but check and clean all the grounds and the battery posts. From what I see listed at rockauto, I'm not familiar with the Voltage Regulator they are showing. Looks like it's internal to the alternator.

 

If you can't swing the $40 plus shipping right now, use car-part to look around locally for a used one. B&R in Corvallis is showing two, for $22 exchange. Springfield Auto Recyclers is showing one too, but no price listed. My experience has been that they are very reasonably priced. A&G out on Greenhill has several 620's, I think they charge $35 for an alternator, but you have to pull it yourself. Usually B&R and Springfield will pull it for you if you ask real nice. Stock is 35 amps, an A/C equipped rig got a 45/50 amp unit.

 

Next stop of course is right here on the site...

Edited October 27, 2009 by nukeday

[Bleach]

Buy a 1977 Datsun 200SX alternator and alt belt. (L20b)

Those will be 50amp and still externally regulated like what is in your truck now. You will also need to order the alternator/fan belt for the 200SX.

 

That should do your basic lights and radio much better. You might still get a little weak at idle but otherwise you'll be charging much stronger while driving so your battery can take the momentary loss at idle.

 

If you switch your plug to work with the 1978+ alternators which are internally regulated then you can go with a 1978 200SX alt. Bosch sells one (or used to) for that car that is actually 60amp.

 

The Z-car alternators will bolt up, but they are so much of a larger diameter that I found it would set right between the block and the idler arm. No room for adjusting the belt tighter. (so basically it doesn't work)

 

You can also look up info on the Saturn alternator swap. 90amp

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?p=30480#post30480

 

Imported car parts.com still shows the Bosch 60amp for the 1978-79 200SX

$60 + $22 core (free shipping on orders over $100)

I used this exact one on an L18 and it was perfect. Hainz mentions sometimes about the L16 having a smaller alt mount. You may need to grab an L18 or L20b alt bracket off another block to use this.

[Braden]

i installed a new alt in my 620 about a month ago, its a reman, but it was only 19.99 and has a lifetime warranty!!! i will eventually upgrade, im thinking of using a gm 105 amp alt and switching the pulley, they are internally regualated and a dime a dozen

[Roadracer Al]

Bleach, thanks for the info, that's exactly what I wanted to know.

[Bleach]

for anyone doing a swap, dont' forget that rewiring to use internally regulated is more than just switching the plug. Look it up, its been covered with pictures.

[skunk]

thank you