newguy Posted October 6, 2009 Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 (edited) Introduction This write up will HELP you install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (mechanical) while keeping your OEM oil pressure light (aka idiot light) The prices differ depending on where you buy. Home depot & carquest seem to be the cheapest. I also recommend buying the copper hose kit because it seals better for longjevity and reliability. ($10.00 from Autozone) Tools Wire cutters and crimpers basic tools set with sockets and wrenchschannel locks pliers :D Cost and materal you'll need list 1. 1/8 npt oil pressure switch w/male spade connector 3-9 PSI $5-$10 (really commen) 1. Autometer #2269 Adapter from 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT $6-$16 (carquest $12.95) 1. Female spade connector $.01??? 2. Butt connectors $.02??? 2. Wire tap connectors $.05??? 1. Brass "tee" fitting with 1 male and two female ports 1/8 NPT ports $2.95 1. Tube of teflon puddy (home depot $.99) 2ft. Red and Black #12 or #14awg wire $ scrape wire you may still have? 1. Zip tie Locate the OEM oil pressure switch on the passenger side of the block down by the starter. Remove the wire and cut off the connector. Then strip off 1/4"of the insulation and crimp on the female spade connector.Next remove the OEM oil pressure switch with a pair of channel locks. Next apply teflon puddy to the male side of the autometer #2269 adapter and screw it into the block.Note: I had to use a ratchet with an extention and apply some pressure to get it to screw in. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN Apply more teflon puddy to the male part of the brass tee fitting and screw into the autometer adapter, with the top port facing up.Apply more teflon puddy to the NEW oil pressure switch with 1/8 npt end and using the channel lock pliers screw it into tee port facing your tire. Then reconnect the wire to the switch. Apply more teflon puddy to the 1/8 npt male TO hose apater fitting and screw into top port of the tee fitting.Note: Do not install pressure hose yet.Find a new location for your gauge and install nessesary mounting hardware.Then apply puddy to the male fitting on the back of the gauge and screw on the 1/4" female TO hose adapter. From the engine bay run the pressure hose into the cab through the firewall to the gauge's mounting location with about 3" hanging out the hole.Note: I choose to go between the heater coolent hose and the rubber groment.From the engine bay rap the hose around a spray can once and then down to the tee fitting. Cut the hose and make SURE you reopen the end of the hose!Follow the instruction that came with your gauge to install the hose to the compression fitting and then zip tie the excess looped hose to the coolent hose near the tee fitting. Do the same for the hose to the back of gauge connection. Wiring The ideal way to wire the light and still being able to dimm it with the OEM gauge lights is to use 2 wire tap connectors. Using 2 butt connectors extend the two wires from the gauge mounting location to the nearest OEM cluster light. Then using the two wire tap connectors, tap and crimp on to the positive and negitive wire of the OEM light. Final steps With the gauge hanging out of its hole and all hooked up, start the engine and look for leaks both by the gauge & engine. Then turn on the headlights and test dimmability.install the gauge into it hole and becareful not to kink the pressure hose. Newguy signing off.:cool: Edited October 7, 2009 by newguy missing a photo Quote Link to comment
Nice140Y Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Hi there, Great write up. Does this mean that the original switch has to be replaced in order to make this contraption work? thanks. Quote Link to comment
sycloned916 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Shouldn't have too looks like he just Tee'd off it. Quote Link to comment
Unclejesse88 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 I thought that a "t" hanging off of the block wasn't a recommended setup? Something about the weight and the fitting eventually breaking off. There is a thread somewhere around here with a remote manifold to distribute the oil to all the various senders. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 thanks for sharing new guy. Quote Link to comment
Nice140Y Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Shouldn't have too looks like he just Tee'd off it. The problem I am having is the thread of the switch is not a common one and I can not find the right fitting to tee this off. Any ideas? New Guy mentions that he needed a ratchet to tighten it. You should have to do that unless he re-threaded the block. Looks like a good idea, I'm just not keen on re-threading like that. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 The problem is that the block does not have a standard taper pipe thread for the oil pressure switch. The L-16 blocks used in a 521 have a British pipe thread, and probably with the 620 trucks and cars from about 1973, may have switched to a metric pipe thread. I am not sure about a switch to metric, I am assuming it was made sometime. The difference between the two is one has 1/8 x 27 threads per inch, and the other has 1/8 x 28 threads per inch, so the American oil pressure switch will start into the Datsun block, but it will not really thread in deep enough, unless you force it, and then you are damaging the thread on one piece, or the other, or maybe both Quote Link to comment
Rubberman Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Good write up. I was planning on just the aftermarket gauge, never really thought about it, but after seeing this, I'll be "T"ing it and keeping the stock light hooked up. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I have heard from many long time Datsun guys that running a T fitting on the block will result in a failure. The photos below show the setup I came up with for my 510. It will find a new home in my 521. This also makes the turbo oil supply easy. The distribution block is simply a 1/8" NPT manifold made by Vibrant. Any 1/8" NPT manifold would work. I used a 10# 1/8" NPT pressure switch to replace the stock unit. It was about $8 at the parts store. I also bought an adjustable Hobbs switch to drive an amber colored "lower but not LOW" oil pressure warning light to provide early warning. The distribution block. It is mounted there to accommodate the OD of the sending unit. -4 AN braided supply line connects to the block with a 1/8 BSP fitting. Quote Link to comment
newguy Posted December 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) The problem I am having is the thread of the switch is not a common one and I can not find the right fitting to tee this off.Any ideas? New Guy mentions that he needed a ratchet to tighten it. You should have to do that unless he re-threaded the block. Looks like a good idea, I'm just not keen on re-threading like that. What do you guys think? I had to use a ratchet because the threads on the block where a little gummed up. And I didn't need to rethread the block. From doing research on ratsun I found out that I needed to convert from British pipe thread (BSP) to nation pipe thread (NPT) and that auto meter adapter did just that. Making parts easier to find because NPT threads are commen in USA. once it was converted to NPT I just bought a a tee fitting which had one male and two female ports. The Tee Idea works really good on my 78' 620. And Of course other people have different opinions. And it was all done on a ratun price. Edited December 4, 2009 by newguy Quote Link to comment
newguy Posted December 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I have heard from many long time Datsun guys that running a T fitting on the block will result in a failure. The photos below show the setup I came up with for my 510. It will find a new home in my 521. This also makes the turbo oil supply easy. The distribution block is simply a 1/8" NPT manifold made by Vibrant. Any 1/8" NPT manifold would work. I used a 10# 1/8" NPT pressure switch to replace the stock unit. It was about $8 at the parts store. I also bought an adjustable Hobbs switch to drive an amber colored "lower but not LOW" oil pressure warning light to provide early warning. The distribution block. It is mounted there to accommodate the OD of the sending unit. -4 AN braided supply line connects to the block with a 1/8 BSP fitting. Althou your setup looks very nice I did not have the money to go that far out. Quote Link to comment
Nice140Y Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 Hi, this also looks like a good set up. One question: Would this allow me to run an aftermarket Oil pressure gauge (equus) with this setup. A small hose like in these photos Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) as far as I know the L series blocks are all 1/8 BSP. I will ck my L20 one day, but assume it is Nice 140Y. most gausge kits all use the 1/8 inch size line. just I dont like the taiwan made ones as they are prone to cracking due to the heat then cold and just get brittle. That means youll be looking for the stock oil pressure switch to seal up the hole in the middle of NOWHERE cause you bought a cheap ass oil line there are better lines out there ,autometer has a btter plastic line and the bigger braded stuff will give you a faster gauge response also as it moves more volume faster . But I use my gause as just a general indication anyways. esp when turning hard right into a corner I se my pressure go down I know Im low on oil!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you got a car that dont burn alot of oil maybe dont worry about it as I seen alot of people put in Cheap ass gauges and looks like a wiring nightmare of what they splice into. Edited December 4, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
Nice140Y Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 So, would you recommend maybe a copper line? Like in the first set up on this thread. The one with a T. My cars are not burning oil , but I want to have these gauges for peace of mind. Besides, I got it as a gift from my wife and it came in a set of three gauges. BTW, where would the best place be to install the sensor for the water temp gauge. its about 2" long. last one on this pic I also wanted to install thes gauges on my 140Y which has the switch on top of the oil filter. This one is a tapered british pipe thread. I am having a B%$# of a time finding a fitting like that. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 the water fitting ones can be a pain. as youll need to find a adapter. remove the old sender or find another housing like from a later year L motor like a L20 that has a extra hole that could maybe be used. what usually happens is youl break the lower housing and go 2 steps backwards. On safe side find another lower stat housing and build on that so not to break you car. as for copper line I heard of them cracking also but you can put stress lopes in there. But just buy the autometer brand made in USA line. The T is only if you want the light go go out also but I dont run one. Thye have eleltric ones now and just have a transducer to get oil pressure and never need to worry about a like blowing up. also Hope your wife got you the set with a volt meter not a AMP meter. Amp meters suck and need longer wire runs to the gause then back. Its just lame. thats all I got to say on this one autometer has all the gear to do this right with better lines and has the fitting if you cant find one local. here my setup. on the Temp stat your on your own. 1 Quote Link to comment
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