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radiator question..


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hows it goin guys! well im starting my single cam KA swap in my 72 510 and i have 2 get my radiator so i can further my project. problem is im not sure which i should go with, ive heard problems with the vw one, seen on a forum that a guy recommended an oem crx(wich i think is way 2 wide) and a del sol rad,(aftermarket aluminum) im doing this build on a budget so i cant spend $500 on a radiator,so affordable but not a cheap p.o.s. is what im looking for. plus i want 2 use as many common,easy 2 acess parts as possible. do u guys have any suggestions? or maybe even a thread or other forum where my question has already been answered?(i know im not the first to ask) thanks!

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Lots of guys including myself and two others in my town run the Fiero radiator. Inlet/outlets are on the correct sides, you get a normal radiator cap, comes from the factory with an aluminum core. Available in two thicknesses, one for the 4 cyl car, and a thicker one for the V6 car. PLUS they are like $40 if you can find a good one at the JY. PLUS PLUS people can even give you hose numbers for CSK auto so it will look like your running factory hoses. I got my V6 one at the JY 6 years ago for my VG30 and have never had a single problem even in 110 degree heat here in Phoenix.

 

The only caveat is that in some installs they are a tad tall, so you just lean it back about an inch at the top. Not all cars require this, but mine did. My buddies didn't, go figure.

 

This really needs to be a sticky. This question comes up at least once a month.

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Lots of guys including myself and two others in my town run the Fiero radiator. Inlet/outlets are on the correct sides, you get a normal radiator cap, comes from the factory with an aluminum core. Available in two thicknesses, one for the 4 cyl car, and a thicker one for the V6 car. PLUS they are like $40 if you can find a good one at the JY. PLUS PLUS people can even give you hose numbers for CSK auto so it will look like your running factory hoses. I got my V6 one at the JY 6 years ago for my VG30 and have never had a single problem even in 110 degree heat here in Phoenix.

 

The only caveat is that in some installs they are a tad tall, so you just lean it back about an inch at the top. Not all cars require this, but mine did. My buddies didn't, go figure.

 

This really needs to be a sticky. This question comes up at least once a month.

 

my fiero radiator has a driver inlet and pass outlet.... not suitable for a ka unless you run the gross cross piece for your hose like i am.

 

2333003901_6baa11a488.jpg?v=0

 

fiero has correct locations for an l series, maybe even an sr, but not a ka

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o ok. i was gona go 2 the jy on fri. 2 scope out the fiero radiator (if i can find one) its good 2 know that the crap i was hearing about the rabbit one isnt true. so as far as modification(as lil as possible) which has the best fit? anyone had/heard of someone running a del sol rad? my concern is space between the motor and radiator/electric fan. i want everything 2 fit right and not be worried about the two getting "acquainted"< and id like 2 mount the fan in the engine bay if possible, i dont wana see it thru the grill. pics of ur setups would be cool too! (hope u guys dont mind if i decide 2 jock one of you) thanks for the help!

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o ok. i was gona go 2 the jy on fri. 2 scope out the fiero radiator (if i can find one) its good 2 know that the crap i was hearing about the rabbit one isnt true. so as far as modification(as lil as possible) which has the best fit? anyone had/heard of someone running a del sol rad? my concern is space between the motor and radiator/electric fan. i want everything 2 fit right and not be worried about the two getting "acquainted"< and id like 2 mount the fan in the engine bay if possible, i dont wana see it thru the grill. pics of ur setups would be cool too! (hope u guys dont mind if i decide 2 jock one of you) thanks for the help!

 

this is how my rabit rad fits with an ac condencer in front of it its got about a half inch between the water pump and fan without the condencer it would be a good fit with the ka in there

 

DSC04390.jpg

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Be carefull with the Honda radiators. Honda engines are EXTREMELY efficient, thusly most of the gasoline is converted to motion, and not to heat. Therefore they can run very small radiators. My buddy has an SR20DET in his dime with an all aluminum Civic racing radiator.......it will NOT keep the engine cool. He's swapping in a Fiero one as we speak.

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Use a Rabit/Scirroco radiator. Anybody who complains about cooling issues haven't bled the system correctly or have a problem besides the radiator. Anybody who complains about fitment doesnt now how to use a drill.

 

There was a thread a few weeks ago with links to the two styles. One style has a radiator cap on the radiator and was like $150, the other hadno rad cap and was less than $100. But one without, since the rad cap is lower than the bleeder valve anyway. Use an in-line cap. Makes bleeding it easier, and opens up aftermarket radiator cap options for higher pressure and whatnot.

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I bought this one from Ron Davis Radiator it is not mounted yet. It measures 22X16X3 and you can put the inlet and outlet on either side and do custom inlet size and location. Check out his website. I got this one made for $246

Hope this helps.

DSCN0855.jpg

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o wow! the ron davis one is way cheaper than i thought custom one would be! well im off to the jy in half an hour and im gona look for the rabbit/sirrico rad. hopefully i can find one so i can get started on all the fab that needs 2 b done. ( just so u know: my dad owns a shope where he does airbags and hydraulics(GO EZ) and since he doesnt have much room on account a too many customers cars there, were gona do the xmember,motor mnts,trans mnt, mnt the rad,weld up all uneccesary holes in the engine bay, and prep for paint. all in one weekend!(fri,sat,sun) w/out skimping on quality!! cuz then what would be the point right??) ima lil nervous.. i dont think all that could be done. what do you guys think?? and thanks for all your help! =)

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hell yeah dude! ur completely right! majority rules and i believe em! =)nd one (w/cap) @ the jy and its almost perfect measurements for the opening on the core support! i love that. i didnt buy it tho. alot of cooling fins were f'd up and the wanted $59.94 + $11 core charge + tax!!! wtf is goin on here?!?!? why is it almost better priced 2 buy new shit then @ the junkyard?? if any one has one for sale lemme know! =)

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http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1985/volkswagen/scirocco/cooling_system/radiator.html

Brand new for 42.75 with no cap, I prefer to have the remote fill anyway.

 

That's the one I mentioned earlier.

 

The problem with the ones that have the radiator cap pre-installed, like I said, is that bleeding the cooling system is damn near impossible without jacking the front of your car way up in the air.

 

Save yourself the time and headache AND MONEY, buy the one linked (shipping is $6.95 ground and optional (I suggest it!) $2.95 insurance), then buy a cheap in-line/remote filler neck. No issues!

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So the one linked above will fit in a 510 good with the hose outlets matching a sr20det? Also a local shop told me you need a good aluminum radiator with some good fal fans to keep a sr20det cool if u have upgraded the turbo. Any input would help.

Edited by wana510
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So the one linked above will fit in a 510 good with the hose outlets matching a sr20det? Also a local shop told me you need a good aluminum radiator with some good fal fans to keep a sr20det cool if u have upgraded the turbo. Any input would help.

 

The VW radiator listed above (for less than $50) does NOT have the inlet/outlet on the right side of the radiator for a SR20. Also, SR's put out a lot of heat, and I'm assuming that the VW radiator would NOT keep your car cool.

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ok ive finally decided that im gona go with the no cap scirocco. wagdatto i hadnt really understood why runing the inline was better but now that a read the other threads(the thread were u told bleach why) it makes sense now! sorry it was just a blonde moment. thankfully i listened 2 you b4 i bought the capped one. the last thing i want is 2 be the cause of probs w my swap. thanks alot!

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You can buy the one with the cap, but you'd still have to run an in-line OR jack the front end way up to bleed the system properly!! Epic fail!!

 

Save the time, money and hassle! You made the right choice.

 

yeah im having this issue now :/ its a bitch im getting an inline as soon as i get to the junkyard

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