72240z Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 yes, let the gel coat cure first. Should kick fairly quick. For carbon, I've always had bad luck when I resin and then lay down the carbon. The weaves get all messed up(for me at least). So I would suggest rolling out the carbon and then resin over it and making sure enough resin makes it through to the other side. It's way less messy to do it that way too. Quote Link to comment
72wagun Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Interesting thread. I just read through it. I haven't done any CF, but I've done quite a bit of glass cloth (as opposed to mat or chopped glass). I learned a little trick to make layups a little easier. You need some sheets of clear plastic a little larger than the part. Layout a sheet of clear plastic Lay down a piece of fiberglass cloth (or CF) Drizzle resin evenly over the cloth (when in doubt, a little more is better than not enough) Lay another piece of clear plastic on top of that Now use a plastic squeegee to even out the resin under the plastic Spread the excess to the side Peel the top plastic off Now flip it all over and apply the cloth where you want it like a big sticker Peel off the remaining plastic and work out any air bubbles with a stippling brush or roller Repeat for additional layers Might not work for everyone, but it's helped me do nicer layups. Might work for CF too. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Thankyou for answering my question foo.I have never layed clear in one of my molds,I usually do gel-coat then glass, But being as im gonna do c/f I will need to lay clear first.They make clear resin and clear gel-coat,I will probably go with the clear gel-coat for the simple fact that I can use my regular paint gun and not my bigger tipped sprayer. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Thankyou for answering my question foo.I have never layed clear in one of my molds,I usually do gel-coat then glass, But being as im gonna do c/f I will need to lay clear first.They make clear resin and clear gel-coat,I will probably go with the clear gel-coat for the simple fact that I can use my regular paint gun and not my bigger tipped sprayer. Thanks again. With carbon, you need to use epoxy resin. That is "clear" resin. Cost more, but it does not yellow. You need clear gel coat to lay down first, then lay the carbon. When its all done and you want to finish it a bit more and get more depth, then you can spray on a clear coat, buff and wax. Quote Link to comment
72wagun Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 With carbon, you need to use epoxy resin. That is "clear" resin. Cost more, but it does not yellow. You need clear gel coat to lay down first, then lay the carbon. When its all done and you want to finish it a bit more and get more depth, then you can spray on a clear coat, buff and wax. For epoxy, I like to use West System because it's easy to get the ratios correct with the pump system they have. I've never done any CF though. Are there any tricks to avoid distorting the weave pattern? All the parts I've made before didn't really matter if the cloth got disturbed a little because it didn't show. Especially on parts with lots of compound curves it seems like it would be hard to get it to lay nicely without problems. Quote Link to comment
a100addict Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 With carbon, you need to use epoxy resin. That is "clear" resin. Cost more, but it does not yellow. You need clear gel coat to lay down first, then lay the carbon. When its all done and you want to finish it a bit more and get more depth, then you can spray on a clear coat, buff and wax. carbon fiber will NOT stop any bullet!!!!. it is very brittle it would take about 40 layers to be thick enough to be effective. kevlar however is a diffrent story.vacuum bagging gives you the lightest piece by removing excess resin. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hey foo my molds are made from vinyl polyester.I know I can use clear vinyl polyester resin. But I dont know what epoxy resin might do to my molds,Its a different composition and have never used epoxy. Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Ask and you shall receive. eBay has it all! Door and rear panels for a 2 dr in CF $229 + $29 S&H or the "Make an Offer" option if $229 for the 4 pieces is just too high. http://tinyurl.com/y8e676c Personally I like upholstery, but what fun would it be if everyone had an orange 510 like I do. Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Dave Pare does anything in C/F. He hosting the swap meet on the 21 of Feb. I have worked in his shop with him and C/F is fucking harder then it looks. unlike fiberglass and other products. He often rejects door panels and airdams. Not to mention hes been doing it a long time. Kinda makes me laugh, just like when i hear how ez it is to paint a car. However Bonvo, he's looking for barder. He needs a motor, tranny, etc, and help putting his freashly painted engine bay together. Quote Link to comment
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