distributor question

[dat u racing]

my M.S.D. died last night, Ihave 2 wire ele, dist. red and green wires witch one goes to plus and neg on coil? l20b with blaster 2 coil.

[datzenmike]

If you have Red and Green wire from the dizzy it is likely a remote igniter type. Neither wire goes to the coil, instead both go to the igniter box. The box amplifies the signal and interrupts the ground to the coil and fires it.

 

The same thing is done with the matchbox type except it has been miniaturized and mounted directly in the side of the dizzy.

 

To get yours going, either find a matchbox type dizzy and replace yours. Find a remote igniter box that is made for you dizzy, or even easier and cheaper get a GM HEI module and wire it between the dizzy and the coil like this:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Nissan%20Electrical/wiringHEI4.jpg[/img]"]

 

The two Red wires together in the upper right go to the dizzy Red and Green wires. Not sure if polarity matters, probably not but you can always switch them around. These two wires send a weak signal to the Black HEI unit bolted to the fender that actually fires the coil.

 

The two wires spliced onto Red wires in the lower right supply 12v ignition on and 12v starter on. Both are tied together at the + coil terminal with a lead supplying power to the HEI unit on the fender.

 

The last wire on the upper right of the HEI unit supplies the ground on/off to the - side of the coil.

 

The HEI can be got for about $15. '76 Camaro? Somebody here knows.

[dat u racing]

I've been running it with msd and no remote ing.?

[datzenmike]

Of course. The MSD take the place of the remote igniter... becoming the igniter, just needing the pulse from the stator/reluctor. The GM HEI does the same thing for $15. Simple, easy and cheap to replace.... course nothing ever goes wrong with them. :D

 

To be sure WE are talking about the same dizzy, this is the remote igniter dizzy:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Nissan%20Electrical/EIdizzyremoteigniter.jpg[/img]"]

[dat u racing]

YES thats the won! so what is the air gap to be set at ??

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Hey thats my 620 in that pic :D Glad that pic helps.

[datzenmike]

Thanks man, I'm such a picture whore I don't remember your face. :lol:

 

Air gap for the '78 remote igniter is 0.2-0.4mm or 0.008-0.016"

[banzai510(hainz)]

my M.S.D. died last night

 

Thats why I dont like them

[hang_510]

May Suddenly Die :P

 

thats why i have a spare :fu:

[dat u racing]

I think I like the $20.00 deal a lot better, gonna go install right now.

[dat u racing]

it's all hooked up but no power on red or green wires wile cranking

[datzenmike]

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Nissan%20Electrical/wiringHEI4.jpg[/img]"]

 

The two Red wires together in the upper right go to the dizzy Red and Green wires. Not sure if polarity matters, probably not but you can always switch them around. These two wires send a weak signal to the Black HEI unit bolted to the fender that actually fires the coil.

 

 

The Red and Green wires won't have any power on them. They go inside the distributor and connect to a coil of wire. The rotor and stator cause a small magnetic field to pass near the coil which induces a very small current pulse. The other ends of the Red and Green wires goes to the HEI unit which uses this small pulse to 'trigger' the coil and give the spark.

 

The Red and Green wires go to the left side of the HEI unit as pictured above. If it does not work swap the Red and Green wires around.

 

 

The two wires spliced onto Red wires in the lower right supply 12v ignition on and 12v starter on. Both are tied together at the + coil terminal with a lead supplying power to the HEI unit on the fender. (check for 12v in the on and cranking key positions)

 

The last wire on the upper right of the HEI unit supplies the ground on/off to the - side of the coil.

 

Edited August 4, 2009 by datzenmike

[dat u racing]

ok frankinstine lives!! m.s.d. was good,, coil good dizzy good,, some how air gap was double the gap? set screws were tight ? truck now wired for h.e.i.and m.s.d. definatly sounds better with msd. thankx for all your help RATSUN ROCKS

[hang_510]

:thumbup:

m.s.d. was good,

 

air gap was double the gap?

definatly sounds better with msd.

 

was the gap the prob w/the MSD?

 

i found a broken wire in mine (sitting for 10 years didnt help either)

 

 

 

'sounds better' as in runs better???

:cool: if it runs better

[dat u racing]

yah the gap was the prob. runs better with msd but the hei will be a cheap back up.

[RustyRat4x4]

The Red and Green wires won't have any power on them. They go inside the distributor and connect to a coil of wire. The rotor and stator cause a small magnetic field to pass near the coil which induces a very small current pulse. The other ends of the Red and Green wires goes to the HEI unit which uses this small pulse to 'trigger' the coil and give the spark.

 

The Red and Green wires go to the left side of the HEI unit as pictured above. If it does not work swap the Red and Green wires around.

 

What year did they start the electronic ign?

have single- points myself still '76 620..

[RustyRat4x4]

think I answered my own question..

some 77's and 78 for the remote igniter box right?