djmoreron Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 so i wanna start upgrading ignition parts on my truck. i wanna get an msd blaster coil, but not sure which one fits my 77 king cab. would this one be ok? do i need to modify anything else if i get this. thanks... http://www.msdignition.com/coil_blaster_1_8200_8202_8223.htm (btw, i tried using the search feature, but couldnt search by msd cuz its less than 4 letters) Quote Link to comment
Fineline Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 I have had one on my truck for a couple of years now and it works fine. I have used it with both the points distributor and the pertronix conversion without any problems. Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 thanks. i was just afraid it might be overkill. seeing that i dont really know too much about cars in general, everyhing is gonna be a learning experience for me. still trying to figure out what it means to have a points distributor or electric. haynes manual helps a lot. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 thanks. i was just afraid it might be overkill. seeing that i dont really know too much about cars in general, everyhing is gonna be a learning experience for me. still trying to figure out what it means to have a points distributor or electric. haynes manual helps a lot. Unless you have a California truck yours will have points distributer. These are a decades old technology with many drawbacks. The points need to be replaced every 5-10K miles, they have to be properly gapped, and have low output. Luckily, Datsun developed it's own pointless Electronic Ignition (EI) and used them on the L series motors too. All you have to do is get one (and the coil that goes with it) and it fits right in where yours was. Here's what you get: Virtually trouble free operation, nothing to replace or adjust (points). I've had mine for at least 10 years and other than a distributor cap and rotor change have never touched it. Much higher voltage spark. It comes with a slightly larger cap than the points distributor, to separate the plug wires and prevent cross firing. Also the plugs are a different number and are gapped wider to take full advantage of the hotter, longer spark. Think of what higher voltage from a blaster coil will do on the older cap. The EI dizzy is good for 10,000 RPMs in a four cylinder, stock points can't touch that Just an opinion here, but I'll bet that an EI 'dizzy' will be better than a points 'dizzy' with blaster coil. Even if they are equal, you still have the disadvantages of a points distributor. I would get an EI dizzy first and forget the blaster coil, here's why... A stock engine needs about 10 to 15 K volts to fire the spark plugs. (well at idle anyway) As more gas and air is added, (full throttle) more voltage is needed, but no more than 20 to 25K volts is enough to do the job. Now people think that if they have a 40 thousand volt coil, that there's 40 thousand volts going to their spark plugs, but there isn't. There is a potential to put out 40 thousand volts but it never gets that high, again, here's why... When the primary voltage (12 ) in the ignition coil is cut, the magnetic field collapses around the secondary windings and induces a high voltage pulse. This pulse is not instant but increases from zero to, whatever, say 40 thousand volts, over a very short time. Now somewhere on it's upward climb the voltage reaches a point where it can jump that tiny gap at the spark plug, and does so. Lets say at 25 thousand volts. As soon as it does, the voltage has a short path to ground and bleeds off, never able to reach the 40 thousand volts potential it is capable of. So as you can see a lot more voltage than is necessary to fire the plugs is ... going to waste. Now having said that, it won't hurt to have a little more than you need, you just don't need to get carried away with it. Obviously anything that increases the density of the air/fuel mixture, will, require more plug voltage. Bigger cam with higher RPMs, higher compression or turbo charging would need this extra voltage. For stock use the EI distributor is plenty. (the after market coils and ignitions are pretty though)... just an opinion. Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 thanks for taking the time to write that up. interesting to know. theres no way i would have known that being the newbie that i am. :D so, how can i tell if i have a california truck? i live in california (i know that doesnt matter), and im sure the trucks always been registered here, so does that mean its the california edition because of the different smog laws. ive read in a few different places about differences in california trucks. any specific place i can look under the hood, difference in vin number??? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 If you remove the distributor cap you will see (or may see) points in there. If there isn't then it's an EI distributor. Also up under the pass side dash kick pad, will be a small metal box the size of a pack of cigarettes. This is the EI's remote igniter box. On later models, '79 and on, this box was reduced in size and mounter directly on the front side of the distributor and was also known as the 'matchbox' dizzy. The '78 truck was the first year that the EI was used outside of California and it too, was of the remote igniter type. They both worked the same in operation. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 The points do NOT have to be "replaced" every 5-10K. Cripes, I've got 40K on the set of points in my '74, and I've adjusted them ONCE. They were the ones in the truck when I got it too, and the prior owner certianly didn't do much maintenance. My Mom's '73 went 60K and 20 YEARS on one set of points. Usually I find they need adjusting every 25K, sooner if the dist shaft is worn (they wear funny then), and replace when they don't contact squarely anymore of the rider is too worn out (which usually happens around 75K). Now, I've had points wear our or the condesners go bad, and I DO recommend going to Electronic (stock '79-80 type or Pertronix) when you can afford it. BTW, the '74-77 Points dist uses the SAME cap and rotor as the stock EI setup. As for the MSD Blaster 2 coil, well, it's just a coil. Absolutely nothing special. I have one on my '78, but I only put it in because I had the thing and did a 3-car swap (MSD coil from 510 to 4X4, 4X4 stock coil to '76 when adding Matchbox, the 510 got the Pertronix Flamethrower that I got with the kit). Pitched the points coil that came in the '76 since it went bad. Difference? Didn't see anything. Didn't feel anything. Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 ok, i think i have an electronic distributor. i found the box you were talking about. the haynes manual calls it an "transistorized ignition unit". thank you! for some strange reason the truck doesnt start. i can keep it alive by spraying starter fluid in the carb, but then it bogs down and dies. i was told by a friend to check the electrical stuff first, so i guess ill try changing the cap and the rotor and see if it makes a difference. this would be my first time trying it, so i hope it goes well, doesnt seem to difficult, but i have been known to Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 As for the MSD Blaster 2 coil, well, it's just a coil. Absolutely nothing special. not only that, it cost more for the shiny red exterior. i got mine at kragen for $33. unless you have the MSD box to go w/ it, stick w/ a stock EI coil. SFV :P Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 so i get it now, no need for the msd coil unless i have a high powered motor that requires it, or i just want a shiny coil to show off to my friends ;). thats prettymuch the info i was looking for. i thought that upgrading certain parts might make the truck perform better.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 ok, i think i have an electronic distributor. i found the box you were talking about. the haynes manual calls it an "transistorized ignition unit". thank you! for some strange reason the truck doesnt start. i can keep it alive by spraying starter fluid in the carb, but then it bogs down and dies. i was told by a friend to check the electrical stuff first, so i guess ill try changing the cap and the rotor and see if it makes a difference. this would be my first time trying it, so i hope it goes well, doesnt seem to difficult, but i have been known to Take the air filter off and look at the little glass 'bull's eye' on the front of the carb. You should be able to see the fuel level in the carb. If it's not showing you may have a delivery problem (like a clogged filter) or the float may be stuck, preventing the gas from getting into the carb. If you can start it with spray, then the ignition is working, just maybe not getting any gas. 'aholic.. most of my experiences with points were on '50s through '70 N. American POS cars. Some were better than others, maybe Datsun were better still. Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 thanks. ill check it tommorrow. today was my dads bday so it was kinda hard to get stuff done. this stuff is fun to me, troubleshooting and all. to finish off my last thought... ive been known to break things from time to time. thats probably why i ask so many questions. for example, i had no idea that if you have an aluminum head, you have to use a torque wrench to install spark plugs. so, one helicoil later and an empty wallet, i was able to pay someone to pull the head, fix my mistake, and get my car running again. i guess you live and you learn... i just look back and laugh at the whole thing now :). Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 lol, first off becareful using starter spray to start a vehicle.. its not a good thing at all :( also i've never used a torque wrench to install plugs.. i just thread them in by hand an give them a little sinch an call it good.. Quote Link to comment
0.C. Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 I had a MSD high vibration coil, didn't feel any difference, other than my tacho wasn't reading really well. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 Not only does the MSD Blaster 2 coil with matching MSD plug wires and Optima Red Top look cool, it's sure to add at least 10HP!!! :D Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 as far as spark plugs go, on this truck i just tightened with my hand until it was snug, then gave it a half turn. ha, ive been considering getting an enersys odyssey battery. its red too :D i have this one in my car. works great! Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 I've heard good things about the Odyssey's. Several roadster folks use the one sized for a Honda GoldWing when moving the battery to the trunk -- less weight. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 ... For stock use the EI distributor is plenty. (the after market coils and ignitions are pretty though)... just an opinion. Not only does the MSD Blaster 2 coil with matching MSD plug wires and Optima Red Top look cool, it's sure to add at least 10HP!!! :D I agree with that!:D Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 as far as spark plugs go, on this truck i just tightened with my hand until it was snug, then gave it a half turn. ha, ive been considering getting an enersys odyssey battery. its red too :D i have this one in my car. works great! yea half a turns to much man.. just snug em.. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 Spark plugs... you want 'em tight enough so they don't fall out but loose enough that they come out when you want 'em to. Spark plug ant-sieze is a friend here. And never, EVER use Autolite or Champion plugs in a Datsun (at least, on an L-series)! Ugh, learned that the hard way. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 And never, EVER use Autolite or Champion plugs in a Datsun (at least, on an L-series)! Ugh, learned that the hard way. Okay, don't tease us. What's the whole story? :cool: Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 Champions: Broke off in the head. Have been the worst for DOA plugs I've ever seen. Autolites: fall out. 2 trucks, no matter how well I torqued them, the plugs would fall out of #1 cylinder every 50 miles. Switched to NGK and never had the problem again. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 i pulled autolites when i bought the 2dr, 3 of 4 were fouled so bad they didnt just wire brush clean. NGK has never let me down :D Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 Haven't used Champions in anything since the '70's, so no experience there. Ran Autolites in my '70 Ford F100 for years without a problem. Of course, I run Bosch in the Porsche, NGK in the Dattos, and NGK or ND in the Suzuki. Same theory as drinking the local beer w/ local food. :D Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 I run Autolites in my Ford as well. They've been happy there. When I had GM products I'd use Delcos. Quote Link to comment
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