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List of possible L series engine builds.


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I have been searching for a nearly exhaustive list of possible L series builds. This would include engines that could be built but you may not want to. I had found a write up on building a long rod 2.3L and other nice engines but I can't find it now.


I also want to see info on head swapping like this engine that I have seen a few race shops mention.



KA SOHC head on an L20 or Z22 block.

I think there is an oil or water passage that must be blocked in the head and then you use the Z crank sprocket. I am not at all sure on that one.


Please add possible builds to this thread and let stay on topic to make a good sticky.



I found the following at http://www.datfusion.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=94

Posted by Ratsun @ datfusion on May 5 2008, 12:23 PM I take no credit. weather it is correct or not I am also not liable. Please correct if needed.

Wayne found some info for you, unfortunately I can't confirm any of it, but whoever wrote it seems to know what they are talking about;


Frankenstein motors:

Collect all the parts at pick-n-pull JY and buy it as a rebuildable $50 short block



Medium block 2.4 Liter


Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling?

Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled.

parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods

s/2+r+p: 227.7

piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck)



Stroker 2.3 Liter


Stuff a Z24 crank into a modified Z20/Z22/L20B block by cutting down counterweights as above. No piston modification or block boring needed for 2283cc L series.

see http://hobbslaw.nissanpower.com/custom2.html for an example

Russ noted that his deck height measured -1.77mm with the Z22E pistons that he first tried using, he eventually used milled Z22S pistons to achieve a higher compression ratio.

Parts: Z24 crank, Z22E pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 96/2+145.9+32.1= 226.0 mm

piston deck height: -1.45mm below deck



Big Bore 2.3L


KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio.

Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm

piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck



Longrod 2.19L/2.24L


Start with VG30E pistons and have the tops milled by 2.7mm to produce 29mm pin height. Custom pistons of similar specifications would also be recommended. Using the long Z20E connecting rods gives this engine a better rod/stroke ratio of 1.66:1. (stock Z22 rod/stroke ratio is 1.59:1). Start with +1mm VG30E pistons and bore the block +1mm to 88mm to gain a bit more displacement (2238cc). This engine with custom 89mm pistons is rumored to be the basis for the "rebello 2.3L".

parts: Z22 crankshaft, Z22 block, Z20E rods, milled VG30E pistons.

s/2+r+p: 227.5mm

piston deck height: +0.05mm (above block)



Long rod 2.1 L


I really like the possibilities for this 2.1L longrod motor.

Parts: L20B crank, Z22E pistons, Z20E rods in a Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm

s/2+r+p: 227.9mm

piston deck height: +0.05mm (above block)



Long rod L18


flattop Z20S pistons and peanut chamber head for 9.7:1 CR, better rod/stroke ratio for higher RPM.

Parts: L18 crank, L18 block, L16 rods, Z20S pistons

s/2+r+p: 207.66mm

piston deck height: -0.29 (below deck)



Low compression combinations for use with turbochargers



Turbo 2.2L


7.87:1 Compression ratio with 45.2cc open chambered head.

Parts: Z22 crank, 2.2E pistons, Z22S/L20B rods in Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm,

s/2+r+p: 224.4

piston deck height: -3.45 (below block)



Medium-Long Rod Turbo 2.05L


Use 32.1mm piston, 149.5mm rod from late Z22E. These rods are not as sturdy as onther L series rods.

Parts: L20B crank, Z2.2e pistons, Z22e rods, Z22 bock or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm over

s/2+r+p: 224.1

piston deck height: -2.85 (below block)



Short Rod L16


7.8:1 CR using 37cc cylinder head. Lowering compression of a L16 would be easier by just installing a open chambered L20B head and using stock bottom end.

parts: L16 crank, L18 rods, L24 (flattop) pistons, L16 block.

s/2+r+p: 205.2mm

piston deck height: -2.70mm (below deck)



Turbo L18


Use deep dished L20B pistons in a otherwize stock L18 for 7.63:1 compression ratio (using open chambered head) or bore +1mm and use dished 280Z pistons for 7.85:1 compression ratio



That info is worthy of a FAQ I reckon.

I found the above at http://www.datfusion.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=94

Posted by Ratsun @ datfusion on May 5 2008, 12:23 PM I take no credit. weather it is correct or not I am also not liable. Please correct if needed.



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Yeah, I searched for a while. Two days infact and could not find much on this site or other Datsun and 510 pages. Maybe I need to use different keywords. You will also note there is nothing in that post about putting the KA SOHC or DOHC head on the L or Z blocks. I believe the DOHC head swap to be near impossible unless you can make your own timing cover and sprockets.


It also looks like it has been un-stuck for some reason. Would have been nice as a sticky. Then I would have only asked about the KA head swap


The PL510.com and http://hobbslaw.nissanpower.com sites no longer exist.

I know I should have checked that nissanpower.com worked before I posted my copy.


This is still lacking. I would like many more posts like this one http://forum.ratsun.net/showpost.php?p=13916&postcount=4

I know this was just copied from the original author but we never hear if he built that engine. Has anyone built this 2.1L long rod engine? I would like to hear how it went.



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It's the same amount of work to put a KA head on an L20B as on a Z motor, so I would go with the largest Z motor for the most output. Additionally, the KA head has a much larger combustion chamber so a smaller L20B would only have a compression of 6.6 so head milling and domed pistons maybe? The L head breathes pretty good anyway, so the KA gains would be at ultra high RPMs



I did find another combination of L/Z parts not listed by Jason Gray. It's a 2.1 liter motor. Not listed because there is no great size advantage, but also there's no machining needed. An L head would give a slightly higher compression than an L20B but not off the charts.


Stock bore L20B (or any oversize as long as you match oversize pistons to it)

Z20S pistons (or oversize to match the block)....... 35.56mm

L20B or Z22S rods........................................... 145.9mm

Z22 crank 92mm stroke/2 =................................ 46.0mm

Total stroke/rod/piston height............................ 227.46mm

L20B block deck height..................................... 227.45mm (it fits)

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I have a rebello long rod 2.3 in my wagon and it makes good power and very streetable. I think I could use a different gear ratio in the rear end to make it wake up even more. it makes about the same power as a KA sohc motor would. I was toying with building a z24 block with ka head as Dave Rebello told me that motor can make a lot of power. He tells me to get a dohc head if possible as the sohc cam makes power but the valvetrain is better on the dohc motors. worked out good as I have a spare Z24 bottom end lying in my garage and just need to find a head for cheap. If I can build it sometime I will post as I am sure lots want to see one of those in person as not too many have that motor. Rebello tells me he builds some for guys corr racing/truck racing.

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The automatic wagon had 3.889 vs. your 3.70 ratio.


The '79 standard 620 truck came with a 4.11 ratio and with the exception of the '74 automatic all other 620 trucks use the 4.375 ratio H-190 rear. Early 720 truck 4X4 had 4.375 rears and some 2wd automatics had the 4.11 gears. The truck diff has to be partially dismantled and the wagon side gears swapped into it in order for the wagon axles to fit into it.


Want to go really crazy get the '74 automatic 620 truck rear.... 4.625 or the J motor 520/521..... 4.875

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thanks DatzenMike


You sent me this info in the past and kept it as when time and money get better I want to do this swap. I can do the swap but wish there were more guys that were in my area that have done this swap to sort of hang out or guide me to make sure I don't miss anything. biggest issue is just getting parts as i am so busy to go wrecking yard shopping for parts.

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The DOHC also has a much smaller combustion chamber. Did Dave lead on to how the DOHC's cams were driven? Oh check this out I thought the idle sprocket was on the block. It's on the head!



Wounder what the spacing is like. Maybe its not as hard as it looks.



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The DE combustion chamber is comparable in size to an open chamber L head. The DE has a much more complex timing chain set up.




But it still just a single gear you would work off. That what I was trying to say in the napz L6 thread. L series, d or de it's all tech one sprocket.

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dave did not get into detail about how it drove but said for the most part it can be done to be nice on the street and the torque and top end would be strong. I personally think it would rock. good mix. just have to put one or two together to see the results.

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A guy in Australia has done the KA24de head swap onto an L block. The unfortunately bit is I don't have any information on what timing cover and chain was used....


But it is a FWD head as the dizzy portion has been blocked off at the back of the head. Here is a pic;



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A guy in Australia has done the KA24de head swap onto an L block. The unfortunately bit is I don't have any information on what timing cover and chain was used....


There was an Oz DAT L20B motor with a KA24E head with turbo. KAL20BET :D About 250 hp. And yes, there was an oil drain back hole in the KA head that has to be welded shut.


A KA24E head will use a Z20 or Z22 timing cover if used on an L20B. KA24DE who knows, probably have to customize something.

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I want to start building an engine this year. I am not sure if I want to go hybrid or not. SOHC KA heads are way cheaper than closed chamber L heads. The KA heads seem like they are better suited for turbo applications because their large combustion chamber volume. With the KA head it would be pretty easy to run the EFI from any KA powered car. The U12 stanza ECU is really easy to mod into a real time unit. I'm just trying to look at all the option. And thought it would help others if they could seem them all in one place.


I am currently leaning towards the 2.1L long rod but have not made up my mind. I could do that with a KA head, but I think the compression would be to low to go NA. I'm going to have to do some investigation into piston and rod combos.



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i was going to go single slammer ka but i went ll.5.1 L18 i just like how a L looks in a dime it would have ben cheaper to go ka but having a car that can rev to 8000 is fun. i think a built ka would be neat to. but i think the next engine i will try to putt in a dime will be a g54b-t

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I knew of that Head for the 6 cylinder L series. It just didn't come to mind for the fours. To bad they are made of unobtainuim. I guess the KA24DE head is about as close to that as mere mortals will ever get for the L series. I wounder what pistons they used with that.



Here is the DOHC on an L 6 cylinder.


Looks like he is keeping the cam driving a secret. Most Z guys don't know about the Z series engines. It could be pretty straight forward.



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If putting a KA24E on an L20B use the Z20 or Z22 timing cover, bolts up.


Possibly the DE head would fit that timing cover as well. Visually the DE and E front of the head gasket look the same.

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Looks like he is keeping the cam driving a secret. Most Z guys don't know about the Z series engines. It could be pretty straight forward.




Updated Timing Pictures, We decided not to use the geared sprocket idler, after some calculations, the forces would of been too high, so we modified some stock L series guides pretty heavily, and a few other tricks that are kept secret and here we are.





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