goonfan

You can make it 4 if it's not raining. Wiper motor quit on me... argh never ending list!

Is that really it? I tried that on mine with them still mounted and I didn't notice any play. After a few seconds of starter fluid it will rev up though. There is some play in and out when I turn throttle, that must be it. Actually it looks like they may have been replaced, I'm not sure the bushing is proud of the carb body, that's why I was thinking it may have been rebushed at some point. Just got home and will start with the testing in a minute or 60, lol. Looooong day could use a break

***Post 15 details how I "sealed" worn throttle shafts. So my shaft is worn out... In my carbs...pervs! I'm looking at a few different used sets and don't need another bad unit. I know how to test them in the car but not on the bench. I was thinking I could spray a thin oil on directly on the bushings and look inside for leaks. Not sure if that will work. Any ideas or known methods?

Just a zero pics update... Don't hate, lol. These are all cell phone pics and my phone has been taking a beating, plus my hands have been waaaay to dirty. After 7 days straight of working on hte Series 1 it's on the road, barely. I finished welding the tank but stupidly I didn't test it out and although my welds held up great there was a bunch more super tiny holes I didn't see. So it doesn't all out leak but seeps, I smeared JB weld on it for now. Hey it's working. No leaks. Well except I lost the retaining ring, I found it a few days later but I couldn't get it on all the way so it seeps.... a lot. I upgraded to a 280ZX electronic ignition and blaster 2 coil. Replaced every fuel or vacuum hose under the hood, except one float vent. Shafts are worn on the SU's.... I'm looking at my options. For now I'm going to try to smear vacum grease all over the bushings. I have some extra super fancy stuff that is as thick as peanut butter and good to 2000*F... It probably won't work, lol. Tomorrow I set out to tune the carbs as best I can with the worn shafts. The front carb (worse shaft) is too rich and the rear is just a hair lean. It was surging by about 300-500 rpm at idle but that has seemed to go away with all thw work I've been doing. It is still pretty gutless at about 4000+ Still have some seriuos wiring issues to sort out too. Brakes, headlights and hazards work but no blinkers. I washed it today and it looks far better. I'll snap some shots of her on the road if the carb tuning goes well.

Whats the head count for this meet? I just got my Series 1 running, still rough, worn throttle, shafts but drivable.

Oh, I never noticed that difference before. Thanks! Great info for those of us trying to use what we've got. I have 3 4 speeds, one is a type A for a series one, one is a type B for a series 2, and the other is in the basement barried under some stuff. I hope I can make something work. I'm going to try and do my own machine work. So if it works out I'll post the steps I take. I have access to a miil/drill but so far in my limited experience the closest I've able to bore out holes has been within 0.003". I'd like to get down to a half thou before I try this on my own. The gearing on the 200SX is not ideal for my setup but my car is a bear to drive at low speeds anyway so I may swap my rear gears out to 3.54. I'm running 195/50/15's and a 3.9 rear with a 3.55 1st. With a 3.22 1st and 3.54 rear I think I'll be happier at low speed and drop my cruising rpm's too.

Got all that thanks. I think what I'm asking then is for conformation that a 4 speed bell and 5 speed bell are the same thing on the L trans.

Arise from the depths! ***Said in my best Dr. Orpheus voice*** I'm always coming back to this thread so it seems like the place to ask a bell housing swap question. I'm looking at a 5 speed from an 84' 200sx and I'm not sure my 4 speed bell from an L28 will fit. Anywhere I can look this up or does anybody know? I "think" it will work after the enlarging the counter bore for the bearing and boring out the upper shift rod.

Looks like an awesome setup! Outside of my budget but I'm drooling.... plus I has no 510 atm, lol. Free bump none the less!

I am wish I had a torch... Always have to find other ways of solving problems. Won't be in budget for a while, just spent a bunch on a real cooler for my tig torch, well real DIY anyway, lol.

That does look a good deal. Holy moly that's a tiny tank.... You'll need to upgrade quick. Search CL and make sure to get an "owner" bottle, and one with no company name stamped on it. I picked up a 150cf for $100, couldn't go to full 330cf because I need to carry full bottles up and down stairs.

5,00ft is pretty high. I'll see if I can make it. IDK I'd just barely have my Z driving by then so I may sit it out and be cautious.

Whats this drive like? Uphill for a while then a race to the bottom? Initial D style?

Awesome first ride. Mine was a Taurus station wagon.... Welcome to club, we're the cool guys ;)

Well that sucks. At least with the new gig you got I'm assuming you can ship from work so it will be easier in the future. Glad to see your handling it.

Only problem I seem to have is with new content. I had set my default to load up only the content I participate in and I couldn't get it to display all new content past the first page. It finally sorted itself out but was a real PITA. had the same problems with Chrome too. I'm using Nightly, it's the FireFox 64bit version, with Nightly builds, duh. Windows 7

yeah, it's not even mine... I borrowed from a buddy and been meaning to buy my own for a while, lol

Hmmm, maybe use the 2x4 in the trunk with chains connected to a come-a-long and ratchet until it's straight. Use the heat gun on the paint. You could offest the focal point of the come-a-long to match the dent too.

I have a super basic set of body tools you can borrow, hammers dollies and a slide hammer.

I might do a vanity for my Z when I'm done, it's super top secret so I don't want to post it. Last I checked it wasn't taken.

Yeah, no big power gains to be had with coil packs over the Nissan match box. It can be done though, check out DIYAutotune, they will have just about everything you'll need. Money and time is spent elsewhere for any performance gains, keep that in mind.

One plate.... Cars look waaaaay better with no front plate. Just keep your eyes out on the hwy, tons of cars with no front plate. I've never got a ticket for it, the 15-20x or so I've been pulled over w/o one.

For an all out performance engine I would agree. We've probably all heard that w/o a return line fuel can get too hot but again I've never seen any actual proof, maybe there are some tests in one of my books and I just don't remember, lol. In any case my setup works for me and would work for others too.

Hmm, that's not a problem I have. I don't doubt it can happen though.

You can pick up a Syncro here... If you haven't already. I wanna say it's $40 http://www.redlinewe...ynchrometer.htm