goonfan

Nice to know I'm not the only one who thinks that.

There are some differences between 240Z and 280Z strut housing so make sure you are getting 240Z specific parts. If you have a series one there is even more that's different.

Nice Evil Dead reference there.

Oh you took that the wrong way. I was just making fun of your post after post thing you do. No biiggie. Then I was making fun of myself, telling somebody else what to do on their car just because it's I what like.

Im still trying to figure out what I want to do. The gear ratios on the mongrel are better and I wouldn't have to machine anything....Still kinda hoping I can find a T5 though. That first in the T5 is not good but I believe I can buy a new gear set for it.

Those aren't 3 piece race wheels so they will most definitely weigh more than 14x6 wheels. Even if the Tire diameter is only 1 inch taller it still looks all wrong. To each is own.

yes yes... I'm glad you see it my way, lol. Seriously though I do think it will look much better with the brushed sills. Top them off with some hex cap pan head screws, nice and low profile, it will look sweet!

okay... that's it... I'm hating.... Seriously?! You think those big ass wheels look good on a Z? Looks like fucking puke too me. I mean maybe if it was a wide body, okay that can look really good if done right, I'll admit that. But this is a stock body. it's not even functional, all that weight.... it wasn't to fit big brakes.... I don't get it.

Now I'm doing a Jrock.... I keed I keed

Like how I'm deciding what your car should look like, lol

You are incorrect sir. Mechanical bits and what not can be wrinkled and that will tie in, as the "under pinnings". Your ride has no matte, mechanical features or matte hints form the exterior of the vehicle. With your semi-metallic paint (flaking issues take away from shine), powdered (flake-esque) wheels, stainless trim, chrome bumpers and neo-chrome lug nuts as soon as you open the doors that wrinkle will kill the flow. It would be an instant dead stop from mechanical features under the hood and in the trunk, to the dullness/utility of your interior. The brushed look is the perfect transition.

oooooh that's a good deal. If I still had a goon....

WTF?! it looks like it was in a fire or something....

Brushed is the way to go. Wrinkle will clash with the car.

Yeah, you'd think my torn up greasy Carhartt machismo would rub off on ya....

Dude. Wtf?

Lol the prez.... Awesomeness

Lol thanks... My other one rolled down the street.. Yeah next up is test fitting. Headed to the doc today, he will really aggravate my injury to the area point that I won't be able to do any work today. First thing tomorrow morning!

Alright man! I good news.

Damn... this takes a looooong time. Got everything patched up on the panel and tacked it in. Here's where I'm at now. This is the panel after I added some more material to the low spots and ground a few things down. It was tricky getting some of the tack welds in. Some had big gaps some were in some hard to reach spots, etc. It's only tacked on the drivers side and one tack on the passenger side, just on the lowe core support. I did that so I can fit the other panel and then make it all fit. Tack and test fit, tack and fit, then weld it in. Hopefully I can get it all lined up tomorrow. I've got to go to work tomorrow, I'd like to call in for the week though, lol. Getting closer but going real slow.... That's to expected I guess. This is my first time doing this kinda repair work so I'm learning while I go. Still think I'll need a shell, maybe next Summer, lol.

Just for kicks.... 200SX w/ the 1st and OD swapped. 2.972 2.057 30.78734859 1.361 33.83568303 1 26.52461425 0.745 25.5

Lol yeah missed that one. That Nismo box is hard to find. The mongrel is closer than my 200sx with a better OD. If I could just change my 1st and OD that would get me the closet to the Nismo. Plus have a better OD for the highway.... Guess I'm trying to achieve two different things at one time.

See that's why I asked.... I knew it would change the whole thing but did'nt know by how much.... what I didn't get my head around is the the counter shaft is where the 28-20-14 were coming from and that they were basiaclly a unit. I was hoping something like 2.9, 1.8, 1.71, 1, .74 was doable

Bwaaa waaah waaah waaah wa wanawaaah..... Warped fender! LOL, that's all I could thin when I took the pic. Yeah, I needs the practice under the hood. This had me doing all kinds of shit, I was using backing plates of Al, that worked sometimes but not other, than I got feed up and used patches of sheet to fill in the holes. There were some big ass holes too, size of my first thumb knuckle. You'll just have to believe me on that.... These are the only gaps I took pics of. Here it is before some sanding Some of the really shitty areas. For some reason when I went back to it after the extended break it was much harder. I just couldn't get the feel of the switch for some reason. I keep thinking the handle moved because I couldn't grip it, I think it was just swelling in my hand, I loaded up during the break on NSAID's. Who knows? I'll add some more filler here and there to strengthen things up in a few low spots, but it's already stronger than stock. I used 40thou after all. Looks like I'll be "smoothing" it out with a little bondo, lol.

Oh cool. Sounds like I wouldn't have the machine the retaining plate of my bellhousing to fir the 84' if I don't want to. Here's one more question, and it my be a dumb one. Could I swap the gears out to change the 1-2 drop? If there was a way to do that I'd be pretty pumped about it. I'd have my own mongrel "C/R" 5 speed. That would really make my Z a lot more fun to drive.... When it's on the road, lol.