Stupid_fast

Thats an A340E I'm guessing. :P Good info, thanks. I do prefer N/A engines for some reason. I'de go ITB's if I had the cash. EDIT, for the picture nazi's.

If you want a physical copy, there are some on ebay for the haynes manuals. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-69-70-73-Datsun-510-Haynes-Service-Repair-Manual-New-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ110571101375QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

Cool thanks, I'm usually pretty good at doing things right the first time. Also should give me some good experience for when I have to get my 510 running. EDIT, Is there any sort of gasket sealer or anything I need to get besides the gaskets? Or just slap them on and call it good? Also I've head people get their cylinder heads ported, is this expensive? Do I take it to a machine shop for this? Thanks for any info...

I have the repair manual for the car. And yes, I'm a noob, only one way to learn.

I'm going to do some repairs on my Toyota Cressida with l-6 3.0L 7M-GE and A340E automatic. It has a few issues, and I had a few questions. I'm replacing the cylinder head gasket and changing the engine/trans filters/oil and coolant. I am about to order an OEM cylander head gasket set, is there any difference in life/performance of the gasket material? The kit comes with a graphite one. For the transmission it says I need dextron-III only, would any brand that claims to meet this spec work? For the engine I think its 10w30 in the manual, that is whats in there now, should be fine? The problems I've been having are oil leaking into one of the spark plug cavities(the one for cyl 5&6) on the head, A burnt oil smell if I push past 4000RPM(Trans oil overheating?), and general performance is erratic, some days will perform great, other days and its sluggish. The transmission oil is burnt/discolored. The engine oil leaks, Have to fill ever 1-2 weeks, becomes dark/discolored over a short time. The car has 121,000 miles, was suppose to get an oil change at 118k's or 2 months ago(oops...). 7M-GE engine is also in the non-turbo MKIII supra's, they are known to blow head gaskets at about 100,000 miles because they where not torqued enough from the factory. Any help/tips/suggestions are appreciated. I've never changed the oil myself before. ^Oics included...

The first 510 I ever saw was a goon outside of an auto shop my parents went to when I was about 10, I liked it a lot but had no idea what kind of car it was. Then when I was 14 or so I saw a 2dr 510 with a rollcage, lowered, It was the most bad-ass thing i'de ever seen and I still had no idea what kind of car it was. And then finally, I got talking with a friend about cars and he said he had a project that he needed to get rid of. Told me it was a datsun 510 wagon, engine, parts, ect. I still didn't know what it looked like, I went home and searched google and got very excited over some KA swapped goon I saw online. I saved cash as fast as I could and bought it, and now its at my house. And now, the more I work on my car the more It has become my favorite car. Anyways, cool story bro.

...My hood is red. But yes, I have been working on it... Hope to finish the sanding today. Then start on the rust removal, then onto buying some body filler.

Well, the clutch arm and sleeve where used with a dogleg by the previous owner, I just remembered that. I think they are the stock L16 ones though.

OH I think I have some of that stuff around here somewhere...

I found the stock sleeve/ T/O in my stash of parts. Will this work, or do I need a different one?

I finally got around to uploading a picture. This is the rust I was talking about. Should I try to sand it down more? I guess just as much as I can?

There is a parts wanted section... http://community.ratsun.net/forum/29-datsun-parts-wanted/

Why are you not keeping the KA24? Is it blown? Damn good deal for $200!

I love the color on that goon!! Great job so far.

This is why I didn't decide to be a little fuck as a kid, and don't do such low shit as to make messed for other people and think its funny. Or maybe its just my parents beat me too much. Damn dude, I'm sorry about your cars!

Sorry if this is in the wrong place, since its about my Toyota. Do transmission oil coolers help performance on automatic cars that are pushed WOT a lot? I rarely exceed 3,000RPM on the street/traffic but I like to have fun sometimes. My Toyota has an A340E automatic transmission, and the car has a few problems I'm trying to work out. So everything is a possibility, this is just another idea I thought of. Mainly, I notice on very cold days/mornings(around 40-50 deg F) the car will perform great, throttle response is perfect, great acceleration, ect. Though when on a warmer day(75-90 degrees F) it will perform sluggishly, and not do so well off the line. I'm wondering if this is the transmission fluid overheating, since the engine temp stays the same at all conditions. If I push WOT past 4,500RPM it will have a bad burnt oil smell, but engine temp is fine. I have no transmission temp gauge. Other problems are engine oil leak, power steering fluid leak(seal on left side steering join/axel?), oil leak in spark plug cavity(just clean it every few weeks...). The engine is a l-6 7M-GE(same as auto MK3 supra), only mod is a air filter. So question: is a trans oil cooler worth it to buy? They are pretty cheap on rockauto. While my Datsun is not running I still like to drive, and and find it very annoying when things don't perform consistently. Thanks for any comments... Edit, Also the engine performs differently after prolonged idling(traffic, ect). Maybe related? EDIT, W/e, I just ordered one I'll post when its installed and running.

Fronts are 16x6.5, rear are 16x7.5's. I think they are -20 offset on a cressida? I didn't try the rear ones... I'll test em' tomorrow.

I was bored, so I took the front wheel off my dads car and stuck it onto my Toyota cressida just for the laughs. I'm thinking off finding a full set at a junk yard, IMO they look good for OEM wheels! I was wondering if they look good or ghetto on it?

This is why you only speed on backroads and memorize where the cops hang out, like I do. 75 in a 35 zone FTW. I'm very slow on the freeway, I feel bad even doing over 70mph(Limits here are 65). Oh and btw, if you go to San Quentin I can break you out since its only across the bay.

...Then I get one that matches a 200mm clutch PP?

I care about my $0.02. :P I might, but I just wanted to see if I could get it cheaper from nissanparts.cc. So I get a sleeve/collar/clutchrelease/whateverthefuckitscalled to match my transmission? I think the all models non-turbo ZX had the FS5W71C...

So I'm about to order the roadster pressure plate 30210-20111. I found out the t/o bearing is 30501-n1604 for stock 510. This is the one I will need? Also I dont think I have a t/o sleeve(I will check when I'm at home), I should use stock 510 one? And where to get the clutch disc for 510? (have used google) And, where do you guys get the part numbers for this stuff so I can stop bothering you? And also, the stock 510 slave cyl should bolt-on to the ZX trans, yeah?

Wheel-gap is for wussies! Or those who cannot afford lowering springs...

I heard if you put an intercooler and a carburetor'd turbo there is a chance you can blow it up if your engine backfires? And 275hp out of an L20b? I've never heard of these engines reaching that kind of output!

Hey guys, would this spoiler fit on my goon?